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About Withers

  • Rank
    The Blackfish
  • Birthday 07/12/1982

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  • Location
    Harrisonburg, VA

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  1. Well, bike is finished for the year but now we're stuck in an apartment and I've got no space to set it up, so I guess it's on hold for a while until we move again
  2. Thanks! Too many projects not enough time!
  3. Making some progress on the bike at least. Once that's done I can move on to the paludarium project
  4. So apparently I have to actually start a thread even though I won't be actively working on this for a while, so y'all will just have to deal with me posting a bunch of unrelated pictures until then. The plan is to turn this aquarium into a paludarium to house dart frogs and also to have a 30 gallon FW "black water" planted tank. It's a 24x24x12 that I've already plumbed for an overflow and return. I'll build it up so it's roughly 36" tall so the whole tank will have a 24x24x36 footprint. Should be a good size. You can see my last paludarium in the link in my sig. Hopefully this one will hold water better since it's starting out as an actual aquarium I have basically everything I need to do this already, but we just moved to Virginia and we won't have a house to put it in for about 6-8 months. Also we have a 10 month old and I have about a dozen other projects going on. The tank: It really ties the room together (also, the other major project to get to before the tank) and the biggest project I have. Seems to take up all my time. Yay!
  5. Vic's 30 Gallon Shallow Reef

    Hey! Yeah I'm still here, but no this tank was torn down. We moved into a new house in April and had a baby in June so I've had no time to dedicate to aquariums since, heh. We should meet up some time!
  6. Vic's 30 Gallon Shallow Reef

    It's certainly capable of enough flow, but I ended up running a second one because there's a limit to what you can crank a single MP10 up to without making a sandstorm. It really just depends on your setup and what you plan to keep I guess.
  7. Vic's 30 Gallon Shallow Reef

    I mean it was, but it wasn't some monster of a pump. The tank is just really shallow and the return was directed very specifically so it didn't get dispersed like I would like. So I backed it down as much as I could to not blow sand around. The Vortech was the workhorse for water flow anyway.
  8. Vic's 30 Gallon Shallow Reef

    Yeah the standard overflow boxes in these are ridiculously large, I'm glad I drilled it myself. I was happy with this but if I could do a ghost I would have much preferred that. I'm pretty sure I used a 1" modified durso overflow and a 3/4" return but it was heavily restrained. It may have even been 1/2". Either way I had to heavily restrict it to keep from blowing sand all over the place.
  9. Vic's 30 Gallon Shallow Reef

    Aw damn, I had to tear it down because we're moving. I'll be setting it back up again around February ish though. But yeah, the plumbing was your typical overflow box / return setup. This is the only pic I have of the overflow Overflow box installed by Jason Withers, on Flickr
  10. Share your filters please!

    Some of that can be fixed by a white balance adjustment in post. In Lightroom you have 2 sliders you can adjust for white balance. One is blue / yellow. The further you push it to the yellow side, the more the reds will come out and the less blue you'll see. That's the main one you want to focus on. The issue is that your eyes are much better at discerning different colors than the camera's sensor is. The blue channel on our LEDs wreaks havoc on the camera's sensor. If you push the white channel to 50% or more it will give you better material to work with in post, even if it looks like crap to your naked eye. The less changes you have to fix in post, the better quality image you'll end up with. It's also underexposed, which can also be fixed in the exposure section.
  11. Share your filters please!

    Can we get an example? It'll be a lot easier to discuss if we can see what you're talking about.
  12. Share your filters please!

    The main thing to fix in post is white balance. Aside from that it's just personal preference. But most of the things to work on are before / while you're taking the picture. Like jedi said, turn those lights up as high as they can go. That will allow you to get a faster shutter speed. I would push the white channel a lot higher too (just for pictures), it may look like crap in person but in pictures it can help offset the blue which wreaks havoc on DSLR sensors. If possible you should also turn all the lights off in the room you're taking pictures of. If any lights are on it can cause a reflection in the glass. Other things to try: A tripod should be your best friend for coral shots. Reef tanks don't provide you with enough light to hand hold the camera for anything closer than fish pictures. Use the 2 second timer feature so you can press the shutter release and then take your hands off it to reduce the chance of camera movement. The sand will give you all sorts of grief if its in the pictures. If you're properly exposing for the coral, the sand will be completely blown out. But if you properly expose for the sand your coral will be way too dark. I tend to purposefully overexpose coral pictures (about 1 stop higher than the camera thinks is correct), and underexpose full tank shots (1-2 stops). The camera's sensor and metering are not meant to handle such strange lighting conditions. You'll eventually want to get to know manual mode pretty well to get consistently good shots, but to start with I would focus on aperture priority mode and play with over or underexposing that way until you really get used to the camera.