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About Withers

  • Rank
    The Blackfish
  • Birthday 07/12/1982

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  • Location
    Murrells Inlet, SC
  1. Hey! Yeah I'm still here, but no this tank was torn down. We moved into a new house in April and had a baby in June so I've had no time to dedicate to aquariums since, heh. We should meet up some time!
  2. It's certainly capable of enough flow, but I ended up running a second one because there's a limit to what you can crank a single MP10 up to without making a sandstorm. It really just depends on your setup and what you plan to keep I guess.
  3. I mean it was, but it wasn't some monster of a pump. The tank is just really shallow and the return was directed very specifically so it didn't get dispersed like I would like. So I backed it down as much as I could to not blow sand around. The Vortech was the workhorse for water flow anyway.
  4. Yeah the standard overflow boxes in these are ridiculously large, I'm glad I drilled it myself. I was happy with this but if I could do a ghost I would have much preferred that. I'm pretty sure I used a 1" modified durso overflow and a 3/4" return but it was heavily restrained. It may have even been 1/2". Either way I had to heavily restrict it to keep from blowing sand all over the place.
  5. Aw damn, I had to tear it down because we're moving. I'll be setting it back up again around February ish though. But yeah, the plumbing was your typical overflow box / return setup. This is the only pic I have of the overflow Overflow box installed by Jason Withers, on Flickr
  6. Some of that can be fixed by a white balance adjustment in post. In Lightroom you have 2 sliders you can adjust for white balance. One is blue / yellow. The further you push it to the yellow side, the more the reds will come out and the less blue you'll see. That's the main one you want to focus on. The issue is that your eyes are much better at discerning different colors than the camera's sensor is. The blue channel on our LEDs wreaks havoc on the camera's sensor. If you push the white channel to 50% or more it will give you better material to work with in post, even if it looks like crap to your naked eye. The less changes you have to fix in post, the better quality image you'll end up with. It's also underexposed, which can also be fixed in the exposure section.
  7. Can we get an example? It'll be a lot easier to discuss if we can see what you're talking about.
  8. The main thing to fix in post is white balance. Aside from that it's just personal preference. But most of the things to work on are before / while you're taking the picture. Like jedi said, turn those lights up as high as they can go. That will allow you to get a faster shutter speed. I would push the white channel a lot higher too (just for pictures), it may look like crap in person but in pictures it can help offset the blue which wreaks havoc on DSLR sensors. If possible you should also turn all the lights off in the room you're taking pictures of. If any lights are on it can cause a reflection in the glass. Other things to try: A tripod should be your best friend for coral shots. Reef tanks don't provide you with enough light to hand hold the camera for anything closer than fish pictures. Use the 2 second timer feature so you can press the shutter release and then take your hands off it to reduce the chance of camera movement. The sand will give you all sorts of grief if its in the pictures. If you're properly exposing for the coral, the sand will be completely blown out. But if you properly expose for the sand your coral will be way too dark. I tend to purposefully overexpose coral pictures (about 1 stop higher than the camera thinks is correct), and underexpose full tank shots (1-2 stops). The camera's sensor and metering are not meant to handle such strange lighting conditions. You'll eventually want to get to know manual mode pretty well to get consistently good shots, but to start with I would focus on aperture priority mode and play with over or underexposing that way until you really get used to the camera.
  9. ok, the lights have been sold, here's an update on the price list. tank and stand - $350 obo Skimmer - $150 obo
  10. stand - this stand really is second to none.