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Richs2k6

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About Richs2k6

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  1. Lens/Optics Correct?

    I figured that. Don't they make just a plain cover though? I looked everywhere and can't find anything. I think I might just cut the 80's down a tad and then secure them to the bottom of the cover.
  2. Lens/Optics Correct?

    I can't even find 120 degree optics. The widest I've found is 100 (LEDlink Optics). They're for XP-G or XP-E and I have a mix of XP-G and XT-E. I'd imagine they'd fit. Does anyone know where else they can be found? Like I said, it's more about aesthetics. I want it to look more like the bottom of a fixture such as the one rapid LED is selling (Onyx by Rapid LED) rather than just bare LED's poking out. The other option I thought of was to just cut holes out of the bottom of the fixture and then cut acrylic circles to plug them with.
  3. Lens/Optics Correct?

    What if I moved it up to 6 inches and used 80 degree optics? Unless that is another option of covering the LED without distorting it optically. I am thinking from an aesthetic approach. Originally I wasn't going to use optics but I think it would look better if I had them sitting flush with the bottom of the fixture. Otherwise I was going to drill very small holes and just let them poke out without optics but that doesn't sound like it would look as nice.
  4. Lens/Optics Correct?

    I'm building an LED fixture for a pico tank and was wondering if I have the lens/optics correct. Using the attached picture the tank is 12 inches high and I placed the fixture 4 inches above it. Assuming I use 40 degree lenses I should have the tank covered? In the first picture the diagonal lines are set from the center of the fixture and extend 40 degrees outward. There is a gap in the corners but I would assume the lights on either side would come close to covering that. Am I on the right track? Or should I complete the coverage from the center with 60 degree optics? I plan on installing 6 3w LED's and dim them down. 40 Degrees http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/8263/40d.png 60 Degrees http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/2374/60d.png
  5. Dosing and Precipitation Issue

    I'm going to take a sample to the LFS tomorrow and see what they come up with. I put a post out for help on another site and I have someone who is willing to come by and take a look. I'm going to ask them to bring their test kits to see what they come up with. When I started dosing over a month ago I was doing 5ml every day and I would see a significant change each day and then I backed off once I got to where I wanted. I started at 7kh and was at 10kh within a few days. Then I switched to every other day but haven't gained much ground. I upped it again and I still can't seem to gain anything. It seems like every time I test lately I'll end up with the same result even after upping the dose and I haven't added anything. The weird thing is I haven't changed how I dose. I put it in the same spot and I wait at least 5 minutes after adding the alk before I put in the calcium. I did this for at least a few weeks before I began noticing precipitation. Why it's happening now, I'm not sure but maybe the LFS can shed some light on it.
  6. This all started since I was steadily increasing my 2-part dose without any improvement. I'm now up to 5ml of alk and calcium per day but no matter what I always seem to be stuck at 8dkh and 400 calcium..... I've been adding the 2-part to the last part of the bubble trap before it enters the area with sand and chaeto. It's not a high flow area but I've been doing it for weeks without an issue. The only high flow area I have is in the display tank and I didn't want to blast the corals with alk and calcium. It seems like for the last week or so the alk is precipitating. It used to just cloud and flow towards the return pump but now it seems to break up into snow-like pieces. It seems like all of my parameters are in check if only slightly below. Is it possible the alk and calcium is building up in the part of the sump I am adding it to which could be causing the issue? If I added the doses to the display tank in a high flow area would it help? I also dosed a lot of Mag last week for a few days because it was at 1,200 and I put it in the same area. I just tested everything today and this is what I came up with: Temp: 82 (fluctuates slightly between 78-82 depending on the outdoor temp, we don't really use the A/C) Salinity: 1.025 (using a marine depot refractometer that is always calibrated) PH: 8.3 (using a pinpoint monitor, checked at 6pm, lights come on at 10:30am and go off at 8:30pm) Alk: 8 using API test kit, 7.7 using Salifalert Calcium: 400 using API test kit Mag: 1350 using Salifalert test kit Any ideas? Also, like I said before I've been dosing 5ml of 2-part per day. I am attaching a picture so you can see the bioload. The display tank is 18 gallons and the sump is 15 gallons. They were taken with my iPhone so they're not the best quality. One was taken normally and the second was with the HDR on (supposed to create a more balanced picture with highlights and shadows taken into account). http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/968/photo2ze.jpg http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/8854/photo1oq.jpg
  7. Help with Phosban reactor and Rowaphos

    So are you suggesting the RO/DI water might actually be free of phosphates? In that case I could mix my own salt with it and theoretically it should read zero phosphates? I am using a maxijet 400 and I have it turned down pretty low so I believe the reactor is functioning properly. I am going to try Phosban when I change it out, probably this weekend. My main concern is making sure I'm doing water changes and top-off's with zero phosphate water otherwise I'll just be fighting a losing battle.
  8. Help with Phosban reactor and Rowaphos

    It turns out the source of the water may be the issue. After a few weeks of running RowaPhos I got it to come down from .36 to .12 but it's pretty much stayed there the last couple of weeks. Today I decided to test the water I buy from the LFS and it measured in at .16. I tested the RO/DI I get from the same place and it seemed to be at .08. I used the same RedSea Pro Phosphate kit on the freshwater though so I'm not sure if it's made to read freshwater or not but I would assume it doesn't matter. So, it's quite possible the reactor is working but I'm just dumping phosphates back in to the tank. FYI its an 18 gallon tank with a 15 gallon sump and I change 5 gallons every two weeks.
  9. Help with Phosban reactor and Rowaphos

    After a couple days I ended up dumping it and then tried 2 or 3 tablespoons. By using more I was able to get it to where I can at least see it bouncing up and down off the bottom. I honestly don't see how anyone can use the reactor without using several tablespoons so that you have at least a couple of thick inches rolling around. Even with 3 I can barely see it moving. The reactor is made for an aquarium up to 150 gallons so maybe it's not efficient with such a small tank. OR perhaps I got a bad batch of Rowa? I understand its wet by nature but should it clump up at the very start? Either I turn the pump up too high and it slowly lifts up and out or I have it low and a lot just clumps up at the bottom. I saw a small drop in phosphates after the first few days from .36 to .16 but it hasn't changed since.
  10. Help with Phosban reactor and Rowaphos

    Phosban Reactor 150. I'm thinking there was just so little of it that it wasn't enough to weigh it down.
  11. So I did my research and it seems like maybe I overdid it. My phosphates were at .36 so I bought the reactor to help. Problem is the recommended dosage is 100ml per 100 gallons and water volume is only about 25 gallons. I cut that in half to start so I didn't shock any corals but that's only 2 teaspoons! It's so little I can't even see it in the reactor. It looks like a lot of it just floated out of the reactor and caught in the filter bag that i put on the effluent. Anyone have any experience with this combo on this size tank? The guy at the LFS said I'd be better off using a liquid remover. I believe the one he showed me was made by Kent and you just add a few drops.
  12. How much RowaPhos?

    I've done all of the reading and I am still a bit confused. It says 100ml per 100 gallons to reduce phosphate levels 3ppm. I figure my tank volume is actually around 22 gallons so I would use 22ml. Then, to not shock the system I should cut that in half so now I'm down to 11ml. I guess what I'm confused about is does it matter how much phosphate you start with? I just tested it with the Red Sea Phosphate Pro Test Kit and it read .36ppm. Should I cut the dosage even more since I'm pretty far from 3ppm or does it not matter? Also, this is going in a Phosban 150 reactor which should be arriving in a couple of days. I'm concerned that it's going to be such a little amount to add to the reactor that it may not even work properly.
  13. Ammonia 0.25 and water change

    I don't heat mine and I haven't seen any ill effects. I have an 18 gallon tank with a 15 gallon sump and even after I add the water I don't see a jump in the temperature. I only do 5 gallons a time every week or two and the water is at room temperature when I add it. I do understand that over time it can become more expensive but I guess I don't mind it too much if it makes it easier.
  14. demin water

    I am still new to the hobby like yourself but I want to try and contribute since I have been using this site as a resource. Check out the following links: http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/can-i...ium-146076.html http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/genera...r-top-offs.html It sounds like you have a pretty sophisticated system at work. I think anyone would tell you that RO/DI is the best. I can buy it at my LFS for $.29/gallon which beats $1/gallon at my LFS. I would think for top offs it would be fine but again, I'm no expert. For salt mixture I would go with RO/DI. I can buy pre-mixed RO/DI saltwater at my LFS for $1/gallon. If I really wanted to go with the headache of mixing it AND I owned my own place I would probably just buy a RO/DI unit for my house. I didn't realize it until a friend told me that you should mix it and then put a powerhead in it for 24 hours. Some people use a heater and a powerhead which seems like a huge headache to me.
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