BulkRate

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  1. Keep in mind anemones can move a LOT faster than a monti. If it starts getting stung it should shuffle for it. Or as I've seen with my blastos and one of my favorite RFA's, stand its ground and the two will sting each other ragged over a week. :/ As for when they start showing colors/patterns? All over the place from what I've personally seen with mine, but generally you should have a good idea of general colors within the first month. Subtleties like patterns and gradient-style coloring start showing within 3-6 months on average. But everything in the earlier pics really just became a lot more pronounced in the last couple of months. So if you're planning to sell/trade/keep some that show up I'd suggest hanging onto them for at least 7 to 8 months or so to know what you've got. Plus the tiny, tiny baby anemones can/will disappear in a heartbeat. Once they get big enough to take normal-sized chow and hang on in flow they tend to be tougher like the ones you buy in stores. I'm also finding that my lighting may not be all that, so some of the timelines may be way different in better-lit setups out there.
  2. The juvenile nems in the pics were born about a year ago. I'd say it took 3-4 months to get them to dime-sized, with small daily targeted feeding with cyclops and very finely chopped LRS nano. They're between the size of a quarter to 50-cent piece now.
  3. I agree with StinkyBunny... that doesn't look like a run-of-the-mill bristleworm. Glad you were able to get it out!
  4. Personally, I'd relocate the RFA and treat the rock as its own issue - that worm looks huge. Couple easy ways to do it: 1. Quick & dirty, but have never lost a nem doing it - cut the pumps & put on a powder-free nitrile glove. With a tightly gloved fingernail, GENTLY scrape one side of the foot repeatedly over a few minutes - you're not trying to pry it off the rock in one go, just to irritate it enough for it to start prepping to move. Once the foot starts to let go, you'll know. Put it on another rock an give it 10-20 minutes without flow to anchor itself. 2. More prep - freeze a few straws of RODI, cut the pumps and touch them gently to the foot of the anemone to make it uncomfortable enough to move. I use this approach on ones that have found a deep crevice such that a fingertip can;t reach 'em.
  5. I never had fireworms in my tank, but used to have a moderate number of bristleworms. Dunno exactly, I never opted to put the distinction to the taste or touch test. Then I added a handful of mini-brittle stars for detritus clean-up (local store has a small clump of chaeto for sale that looked to be a 50:50 ratio of brittles to actual macroalgae) - within months they'd outcompeted the worms for food... haven't seen one in my tank for the last 3 years. Check around (Atlanta Aqarium used to have some), and I may be able to rusle up a few when I do my macroalgae pruning in the next week or two. I'm ever the optimist... that trekking anemone doesn't seem to show any signs of being mauled like the last two. I also may have an old bristleworm trap you;re welcome to borrow... it worked well enough before I lucked out on the starfish.
  6. Heck, if VIP won't fix it (and I'll be very, very surprised if they don't), I'll GIVE you a couple of the 9-month old baby anemones I've got here in my tank. Just watching how hard you've tried to revive the couple you've had succumb tells me volumes about how much you care for the creatures in your tank. Plus I'd hate for you to get frustrated and lose joy in the hobby. PM me sometime after the holiday week and we''l see what can be worked out... you're local, so hey, no shipping stress!
  7. I seem to recall Premier Aquatics (Marietta area) recently announcing that they offer a triton-like water testing option... might be cheaper/quicker. But what your describing seems more like some things snacking on them. Normally I'm a stick it out advocate, but you may want to isolate or toss the half melted one. Have you tried using a red led flashlight to peek at what's going on after the lights are off for awhile?
  8. Chrysophytes, huh? Learn something new every day on here. Another vote for checking the TDS of the water you're using (ie don't just go with the "it's from the LFS so it's fine" line). I had the exact same stuff show up in both my office pico vase and my home nano tank when I was using a ZeroWater pitcher with some slightly-no-longer-new filters. Went away by itself after 2-3 months once I switched to using distilled.
  9. In my case, cyclopeeze and either Nutramar or DrG's decasulated brine shrimp eggs was the go-to food. But anything you can mince or grind up would probably work fine. I had very mixed results with ground-up pellet foods, though - not sure if reef-roids would be accepted. Try it on one of your healthy specimens and if it actively feeds you should be good to go with the one in need.
  10. No biology-backing to this statement, but I suspect that the tentacles are treated much like fat stores... IME when they start to shrink to nubs the anemone is starving. Target feed a little bit of small-particle food every day for a week (with all flow/filtration pumps off for like 15 minutes) and see if it starts to improve. You may have to blow the food gently into its tentacles with a pipette or directly deposit it on the oral disc to get it to take it. Do not try to place the food directly into the anemone's mouth... it's very easy to tear the internal tissues and then you'll have made the issue much worse. In my opinion your "sad pic" isn't too bad yet and should be easily correctable. Google "ailing rock flower anemone" (or search for it here on NR) for a saga of what happened to one of mine a couple years ago and the road to recovery. It's still alive and well to this day!
  11. Glad to see you snagged those two mated porcelain crabs! They're hard as all get out to find paired in local stores down here especially at the bargain price Pure Reef was charging for them. Also glad that they turned out to have the more attractive bright red-splotched shell patterns... it's nigh impossible to tell when Pure's running the coral display tanks in Smurf Blue(tm) mode. On your photo question - maybe the film mentioned in this thread will let you filter out the blue wash:
  12. Nifty!
  13. so.... did that round prototype I bought back in Novmber have a lime or mint emitter?
  14. What Clown79 said... for the longest time I could NOT keep LPS - euphyllia in particular. My tank's alkalinity levels have always been low-ish and once it gets chronically so even water changes can induce a spike and nudge the more sensitive corals into stress responses. Get a handle on what your daily consumption by testing once a day at the same time each day for 3-5 days, then schedule your dosing to maintain it at as close to a stable level as is practical. Something like a Hanna checker is really useful for doing so. Not a shill, just a hater of titration/color charts. ;-) Also it wouldn't hurt to get a baseline on your magnesium levels... getting that parameter into an acceptable range (in my case a bad salt mix coupled with large macroalgae bioload) was the "ah-ha" moment and turning point for my own tank.
  15. The ph in my tank varies by a lot depending on when in the photo-cycle the test is run. Anywhere between 8-ish to around 7.5 and has been that way for years with plenty of shrimp, crabs ang a goby in residence plus a thriving blasto garden and several euphylias. I don't test it anymore except when I go to the store and they're double checking the Alk/mag/calcium levels every now and then. Not saying you don't have a problem, but I'd be looking for a contaminant rather than attributing a mass death to a .5-ish variance in ph. Rusted out rare earth magnet on a frag rack or in tank scraper, cracked heater/power head housing, Fabreeze or some airborn culprit etc. Regardless, that sucks... Sorry to hear, and good luck on the sleuthing.