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About halmotors

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  • Birthday 11/18/1983

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    Sutton, NH
  1. It's blurry, that's what it is http://www.reefcorner.com/SpecimenSheets/stomatella_varia.htm Similar?
  2. Jeepers...great diagram, Von. Thanks a ton, that'll really help me get started on getting the thing switched over! :
  3. Glad I could be of assisstance!
  4. I would be much obliged if you could do that up for me, Von.
  5. Apparently the site decided it wasn't going to put up my reply... Anyway, the hood is going to be meant for any 30" long tank...although in this case I'd be building it for a 20L, hence my desire to have proper light coverage. If it were for a taller tank, ie, a 29, I don't think one bulb in the center of the hood would be as much of a problem, given the longer distance for the light to spread. Do you think it would be a pain in the butt to wire it up so I could still use the switches on the back? Here's a pic of the wiring inside... Full Wiring... Switch Wiring... Little Screw Hookup Thingamagiggy... Smaller Little Screw Hookup Thingamagiggy... Like I said, I want to try and keep those switches intact...1) it would make it look neater and 2)it would be very handy. Your thoughts?
  6. Well, the plans have changed slightly...I was thinking of going with two 150W DE MH fixtures, one on either side. With the single 250w, I was getting worried about not enough light broadcast. I don't want to have to clump all my corals in the middle of the tank. That would free up a little bit of space, I should think. Know of any good ballast kits that run two fixtures? Also, I've devised a plan for getting a glass pane to sit in there. The hood already has a metal lip on the front, so I could cut a piece of glass to fit, let it sit on the front lip, and find some way to secure it on the other side of the hood. Non-permanent, and it would work. And no, they didn't have any left. I bought the last one
  7. I just bought a Zoo Med 30" combo reptile hood from my local Petco. It was on clearance for $17, and it's usually $70, so I snagged it with delusions of grandeaur in mind... Here are some pics: What I would like to do is retrofit a 250w MH fixture in there, as well as two 13w PCs on either side. If possible, I'd like to keep the original switches on the back, as well. I think it would give it a cleaner appearance. My question is...are there any suggestions as to how I should go about this? Think it would work? Etc. etc.? Any recommendations as to where I should get the retro parts? The dimensions of the hood are approx. 30"L X 8"W X 4"H.
  8. Well I posted the link more for the technique used to prune the SPS frags off, not the propagation part...it's much easier and cleaner than simply snapping them off like a twig.
  9. Anyone know where you can buy Nisso tanks?
  10. Before you do that, go here: http://www.garf.org/MPegs/SPSPropagation.html Wonderful technique for propagating SPS.
  11. 1st) Can't tell with that pic... 2nd) Looks like a couple of small non-aiptasia anemones 3rd) Nope, not Aiptasia...note the skeleton.
  12. Soft as in squishy/pillowy looking? Or soft as in a poofty Persian's fur?
  13. "I Did the Dallas Cowboys" by Sydney Steele is a must-have, too.
  14. Good point, sprite. I - in one of my moments of mental retardation - completely missed that point. surf...what you could do is drill a hole in the tubing just under the normal water level on the sump side. That way, once it drains to the hole, it will break the siphon.
  15. I don't see any reason as to why that wouldn't work...the only think you should be cautious about is making sure your tank has enough room to absorb the overflow from the rubbermaid sump/refugium. Although, if the power goes out...there's always the possibility that the piping for the pump will continue to siphon...which means that your sump would work even if the power DID go out...not too sure if it would, tho. I don't think there's a way to know unless you tried it out. Best of luck with it, btw.