Jump to content

baldbean

Members
  • Content count

    248
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About baldbean

  • Rank
    Community Member
  • Birthday 08/08/1977

Contact Methods

  • Website
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    San Diego

Recent Profile Visitors

146 profile views
  1. pH drop confusion

    My top-off is RO/DI with 1/2 Tsp of Kalk, I am still trying to work out the dosage. I have been running this much kalk for months because my pH seemed to be stable. When test its usually around 6 pm, after work.I usually just go off of what my probe is telling me in between testing and this morning is was the lowest its ever been. I did have all my windows shut last night now that i think about it. Kind of surprising that this would have this type of effect, wow. On my last tank the pH would hover between 7.8 and 8.1, and this was normal. It may be possible that the pump to circulate the warm water in my sump is just a coincidence. The pump is off now so I will see how it goes. Thanks for the replies.
  2. pH drop confusion

    Hi there. Some stats first: - 12 long gallon Mr Aqua tank - Sump: Next Reef NRS-20 - Jaeger 50 W heaters (2) - Eheim 1048 return pump - CAD lights nano Skimmer - Kalk in top off (1/2 tsp for 2 gallons) It has been getting a little colder in my place and I have been noticing that my tank temp has been dipping below my desired range (78 F). It doesn't get too cold, but there are times when the heaters seem like they can barely keep up. My first thought was maybe this is happening because of the low flow through my sump and the heated water is not getting through the system fast enough. So to help get the heated water circulating, I added a small pump/powerhead in the first chamber to mix things up. This morning I noticed that the pH dropped to around 7.8 when it has been steady between 8.0 and 8.2 for the past few months. Could this be due to the water being mixed in the sump? My skimmer has been in there the whole time kind of mixing the water around, so I am a bit confused. I usually take my parameters on Wednesdays (today) and I do WCs on Sundays. Here are the parameters for last week though: Mag: 1380 ppm Alk: 8.8 dKH Cal: 430 ppm Attached is a plot of my pH and Temp since my last WC. The spike in the graph on the far left is when the WC occurred. The extra pump was added Nov 18 at around 18:00 (6 pm).
  3. Stalled Cycle? Or just being impatient...

    Thanks for the replies. On my laptop my numbers are nice and lined up. On my phone... holy crap they are a mess. Sorry for any confusion that may have @reefone I don't think I am going to use the biospira, we'll see. I thought the bacteria needed a constant food source and I assumed the food baggy was taking care of that. I was thinking of removing it anyway, so we'll see how it goes. @khuzdul My rocks weren't too dirty, they were just really dusty and bone dry. My ammonia didn't budge until I added the bag with food. I didn't add too much just a pinch of pellets and a few large flakes. I dis notice som floaties coming off of them though. Thanks again.
  4. Hi everyone. I started a new tank and this is the first time I have used dead/dried rock (BRS Pukani). My last tank I used live rock from a couple LFSs in my area. I used fish food to kick things and get the ammonia going. My original plan was to wait until it got to 2ppm and then add biospira. The thing is out of nowhere I started reading Nitrites and this was before I added anything.One thing I did do was add a powerhead that was in my last tank, but it was in a plastic bag for at least 4 months, Here is my current tank log using an API test kit : Date 8/24 8/26 8/28 9/2 9/4 9/7 9/9 9/12 Temp 79.7 79 80 83 83 85.6 85.2 85.6 SG 1.024 1.024 1.025 1.025 1.025 1.025 1.024 1.026 Amm 0.25 0.5 0.5 0.5 1 0.25 0.2 0.1 Nitrite 0 0 0 0 5 2 2 2 Nitrate 0 0 0 0 20 40 40 40 I have a small mesh media bag in the bag in the tank that has fish food (pellets and flake) that has turned into mush. Its still there and I *think* it is still acting as an ammonia source. The past week it has been stuck. Should I add the biospira (it may be dead now lol) or give it more time to do its thing?
  5. Return pump to strong?

    Hi all. I am testing my new system out and noticed that return pump may be too strong. I am running a Glass-holes overflow (nano con dientes -- 300 gph) and an Ehiem 1250 (317 gph).There is lots of air in the drain line entering the sump and I can hear gurgling coming from the little tubing coming out the top of the elbow attached to the overflow box. Its pretty loud. However I noticed that when I restrict the return line via the ball valve the gurgling and air stop, making it much more quiet. The ball valve is more than half closed. Here are my questions: 1. Is restricting the flow this much bad for the pump and/or return plumbing. 2. What should the flow be through the sump? 3 to 5 times the DT? I think I aimed too high... 3. Would a smaller pump be better? (Eheim 1048, 158 gph) Thanks! EDIT: There is about 3ft of head from the sump to the DT.
  6. Thanks man. I' going to look into the flex hose. I couldn't remember the name and you nailed it.
  7. Thanks for the reply. This was my thinking too. I plan on using an eheim 1250 (317 gph, about 273 gph @ 3ft) and the overflow is rated at 300 gph. The barb fitting seems to cut the hole size to about 3/4 inch which may change the dynamic of the overflow.
  8. Is any one running their over flow like this? If so what size tube/barb connector are you using? I am a little concerned that the 1" barb connector will restrict flow and cause issues. To get around this I was thinking of using a 1 1/2" tubing and barb setup, but am worried it may be overkill. Is this a good work around?
  9. Mrs wages pickling lime and vinegar

    Skip the vinegar and just use kalk alone. If you find that 2 tsp per gallon is not sufficient then add vinegar.
  10. basic plumbing guide. (with map)

    I'm a noob at plumbing too so here we go... I don't think you want a gate valve on your drain, it should be free flowing into your sump. Matching your return pump to your overflow capacity is key. If any changes need to be made it should be made from the return pump. I also don't think you need the gate valve coming from your pump that is feeding the reactors. A gate valve before each reactor is all you need. Also be sure to place the reactor that needs the lowest flow second in the chain. And yes, you have the right idea about the siphon hole. You can also arc the return so it is just below the water line. This way less water will be siphoned back to your sump. You may not need a siphon hole, but a redundant system is best. I think the reason to have one pump is for more control of the water flow.
  11. boltless rack system for tank stand

    Man you are fast! Thanks for the replies. I didn't think about that, good idea.
  12. boltless rack system for tank stand

    You beat me before the edit. 12 gallon mr aqua. It's 500lb per shelf, but the graph is a little confusing. I can't tell if it per shelf or shelving unit. Lol. http://www.cssyes.com/Boltless-Shelving-Z-Beam-Bulk-Standard-Duty-Particle-Board-Deck.htm
  13. boltless rack system for tank stand

    Yeah they are 500lbs per shelf. These racks are used in warehouses. I was thinking of using acrylic for the skin attached by Velcro. This will be for a 12 gallon long mr aqua.
  14. boltless shelf system for tank stand

    Sorry mods. please delete... wrong forum.
×