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xCry0x

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About xCry0x

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    Community Member
  • Birthday 02/14/1987

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    Male
  • Location
    Dublin, CA
  1. I'v had multiple peppermint shrimp over the years and never had them eat coral. I'm not saying they don't do it -- but I'd have to wonder if people were sold something else. The issue I have with peppermint shrimp is they are hit or miss on eating aptasia and in my experience they do not go after larger aptasia. Aptasia x never worked for me. Every time I used it, the one I targeted would disappear but more would spring up around it. The only thing that worked for me was a butane torch. Not exaggerating. I'v tried 1) Shrimp 2) Kalk 3) Aptasia-x 4) Lime juice 5) Hydrogen peroxide 6) Vinegar All liquids injected via a needle into the stem of the aptasia. Most didn't do anything - those that did killed the original but the original seemingly turned into multiple new aptasia within a few weeks. Shrimp worked the best, I had one for the past year and after it died I noticed baby aptasia sprouting up.
  2. A sign of a great business is when you find a seemingly endless amount of unsolicited positive customer reviews and stories of service exceeding expectation. In Nanobox's case - it is a testament to Dave's dedication to deliver both a great product and a great end to end customer experience. I wanted to share a bit about my own recent upgrade project, the results and the great product/experience provided. In late 2016 I was looking to upgrade the original light I bought for my very first reef tank - a cheapo black box chinese LED fixture I managed to buy direct from a manufacturer before they moved to a bulk/channel sales only model. After a bunch of research I ended up getting a good deal on a used Nanobox Duo - the model that used the older v2 arrays. It came in the mail and upon trying to put it on my tank I ran into issues - the gooseneck on it was too short to fit over my tank properly. I'm also fairly certain I plugged the light power into the fan input and the fan power into the light input and instantly fried the fan - if I remember correctly. Either way, when I contacted the seller since the gooseneck was a non-standard size and they neglected to mention that, they told me to talk to Dave because he would help. And help he did - he had me send the entire thing back to him, he took it apart, cleaned everything, upgraded to a newer setup that ran the fan power off the main driver board, and added a new (longer) gooseneck all for more or less the cost of the parts. I'm sure he was busy so I really appreciated that he took the time to help with all of this while a normal company would tell you just to buy the newer model. Then I bought a house and subsequently did what everyone does when they go from an apartment to a house -- I got a bigger tank. I bought a used RSM 250 and ended up shelving the nanobox unit with the intent to eventually retrofit the stock 6x39w t5 fixture with LEDs. Fast forward a bit - after the house came the baby, and I was too busy to get around to actually taking the project on so the nanobox sat collecting dust until a few weeks ago. I decided it was time to take the project on, I went to the nanobox website to see what was going on and saw that Dave had commercialized the retrofit kits. There was an "off the shelf" kit for $550 designed for the RSM 250 tank. The thing is, I already had a nanobox duo.. I also had 3 v2 arrays (I bought a used one at some point in time) and really wanted to do the upgrade with 4 v2 arrays instead of a one off v3 that I'd have to figure out how to wire correctly. I didn't need the full kit, just parts of it. So I messaged Dave - let him know what I wanted to do and what I needed. He responded quickly, priced out exactly what I needed and by the next weekend I had the parts, including another v2 array he still had. I wired it all up, and of course, like any novice doing any electrical project, it didn't all turn on. I managed to diagnose that the 3rd array I bought used was the culprit - I'm not an expert but I used my voltmeter and it wouldn't pass a current so I figured it was dead. I sent Dave a message and asked if I could buy another v2 array. Of course, he went above just selling me the array. He asked for a picture of the dead one and through my cell phone shot was able to circle/highlight the problem - the white LEDs on the array were all visible toasted. A week later, the new array was here and wired up. And it turned on! Retrofit the original hood And put it all back together Was a really fun project. I hadn't used my soldering iron in years so I had to relearn how to use it while soldering a bunch of tiny wires and through hole connectors on the driver board. I also blew the breaker in my house twice because I had the relay switch for the remaining t5 bulb driver wired wrong. 😅 But in the end it is awesome and what I have wanted for a long time. 4 Nanobox v2 Arrays running on 4 channels: Center blues Center whites Outside blues Outside whites All hooked up to the bluefish mini providing a nice sunrise starting at 9am and a sunset ending at 9pm. 2x39w t5s providing supplemental lighting and hopefully helping reduce any potential shadowing issues from the LEDs -- using 2 ATI Blue+ bulbs right now but have a bunch of coral plus, purple plus, Actinic bulbs to play around with. The t5s turn on from 12:30-4:30pm to provide a few hours of "peak" light. Was definitely fun. I have a new appreciation for how much work goes into putting these together by hand! I'll say my electrical experience is novice at best - I'v installed some lights/light switches, but this was the most involved project I have under taken. I didn't electrocute myself, I didn't blow anything up, and in the end it all turned on (eventually) and works - so I am calling that a win :) Thanks a bunch!
  3. Hard to tell from pic but I would go google search montipora eating nudibranch. I had introduced them into my tank and had them decimate a spongodes; took me embarrassingly long to realize that is what was going on. If you can blow the little white things off with a turkey baster that is probably what they are.
  4. For me it depends on the chalice. My avatar chalice every night goes crazy and every mouth has feeders out and it sends out sweepers 5+" long. My large miami hurricane very rarely does has any type of feeder extension and my mummy eye sometimes sends them out but nothing remotely as long as the avatar. Pretty sure the avatar is a mycedum genus though; which may be why it behaves differently. The hurricane and mummy eye actually touch eachother and don't seem to harm eachother; the avatar has been killing the mummy eye where they touch.
  5. Follow up on my thread about wiring v2 and v3 together -- anyone happen to have a spare v2 board laying around by any chance? =) Going to retrofit my rsm 250 hood w/ a nanobox set up using my old duo and someone happened to have 1 v2 chip laying around; a 2nd would be great so I can set it up as a 4x array! Otherwise will likely just buy a one off v3. Thanks!
  6. Ah got it -- the 700h drivers support ~ 13 LEDs and since the v2 are 2 channel right now 2 drivers handle 12 each. If I added 1 more board I would need another driver to handle the 12 new lights -- 2 drivers to then split them for blue/white control. That is a bit unfortunate as it complicates things a bit - would set it up for just using 4 boards at that point. Another way to look at it, I guess, is that by going that route I can re-use everything I have today -- and basically add another duo. Run 2 duo heatsinks like a quad. Wonder if Dave has any more v2 chips laying around collecting dust =) My goal is to make use of this duo I have on my current tank. Would also have to consider, at that point, removing 4 of the t-5s since 4 nanobox boards by themselves would likely be enough to cover a 37"L 16" D tank. I do like the t-5 supplementation and also shading prevention =) The bulb and power cost though..
  7. Hm -- would I need new drivers because it is a v2 & v3? I have two channels right now going through lDD-700H drivers - figured as long as I didn't try to go 4 channel on the v3 I could just wire it together with the v2s and run them through the same drivers to avoid having to complicate things. Figured I'd likely need a new power supply so thanks for heads up on that - current one is a 90W. Was going to -try- and retrofit the 6 bulb t5 fixture by pulling out the 2 middle t5's and cutting a hole in the reflector to recess a ~2"x24" heat sink. Figured I could use everything with my Duo and add in another led board + a new power supply and convert it for ~$100. Only concern I had was if the proximity to the t5s would overheat the led board. Might try to wrap the reflector around the bulbs to shield the LED. =) How much would shipping to 94553 be? ~$8 for a usps flat rate envelope? Might have to take you up on that since the $55 v3 wouldn't be well used. Thanks for the offer!
  8. Anyone know if there would be an issue running a v3 in line with 2 v2s? Have an older v2 model nanobox duo; looking to gut it for a LED retrofit for my RSM250 tank. Want to run 3 nanobox arrays in conjunction with t5 - 2 wouldn't cut it to cover the tank well enough. Thanks
  9. 1) Go to the dollar store, buy a pair of pantyhose 2) Mix carbon/gfo together 3) Put a cup in the leg of pantyhose, cut it, tie it off 4) Throw in rear chamber Been mixing brs gfo/carbon for a while and never have it clump up. Usually eyeball about a 4:1 ratio carbon:gfo. Of course, a reactor is better as it forces a certain GPH of water through the media. I used to run a BRS reactor but that always got clogged and really became a giant pain. Not sure about the IM desktop reactors, have come close to buying one a few times.
  10. If you have access to their home I found that spot feeding helps for a while to ensure they eat. Eventually they get more comfortable coming out -- mine swims out into the water column to eat. Mine actually swims out with the other fish when it knows it is feeding time.
  11. Hey all, I got a nanobox duo a while back and had the upgrade done for a controllable fan. Problem is, the fan control has never worked. The bluefish app lets me set it at either 1% or 100%, any other level results in the fan stopping and making r2d2 style electrical beeping noises. Wondered if anyone else has had a problem with fan controls with a bluefish mini? Dave offered to send a replacement fan - wanted to just double check w/ people before embarking on replacing the fan. Thanks Here is a picture of the nanobox driver box - assuming things are wired correctly there:
  12. I'v been battling pests in my tank - when I wake up in the morning I will take a flashlight to the tank. Have some zoa eating nudi's that I have been battling off. Will wake up in the morning and while the tank is still dark scan the zoas. Pulled out 3 larger ones last week and one grouping of zoas had some babies this AM so got most of those out too. Surprisingly how effective a flashlight in a dark tank is -- all the nasties come out at night. Went on an aptasia rampage last night with kalk paste & flashlight =)
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