wobar

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About wobar

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  1. I did not cure the rock before adding it to the tank. I'm sure that the Pukani has attributed to the issue, at least at first, but the tank has been established for well over a year. Who would cure the rock for that long anyway? I have about 25 corals in the tank, so I need to be careful with any chemical treatment I do. I have read about peroxide treatment, but I am unclear if it is safe to dose the whole tank. Most people talk about taking rocks out and spot treating which would be difficult for me with my coral load.
  2. The rock is pukani dry rock from BRS. The tank has been up for over a year, so it should be established by now. I have the 40 breeder snail only pack from reefcleaners. I've noticed that the snails don't really touch the hair algae once it is established.
  3. I use RO/DI water. It test 0 TDS when I make it. I am currently using HW Marinemix Reefer salt.
  4. I bought a Hanna low range phosphate checker because I have been having a bad hair algae problem in my tank. The Hanna checker has never shown anything other than 0.00. I just have an API nitrate test, and it always reads at 0 for nitrates as well. I have resorted to doing a water change every 3 days followed by a dose of AlgaeFix, but that doesn't seem to be helping either. I have a 40 breeder with 4 fish clown pajama cardinal 2 chromis I feed about half a cube of mysis when I feed or a pinch of Hakari pellets. I feed every other day. I also run carbon, GFO, and skim Please help me get rid of this hair algae. It's driving me insane.
  5. Generally bottom drilled holes are for drains. Most returns are near the top of the tank. I personally just use these for my returns. They just go over the back glass.
  6. In a bean animal / ghost overflow, only 2 of the pipes are used. One is tuned to a full siphon, and the other just has a trickle running down it. The 3rd is only used in case of emergency. So, you could make a 2-hole overflow just as quiet as a 3, but you will not have the emergency 3rd pipe. That being said, if my full siphon gets clogged with a snail, my 2nd pipe is more than enough to handle the full rate of my return pump with nothing going into the 3rd pipe.
  7. Sorry. I wasn't clear. I wish I had two xr30ws instead of two xr15ws. I would have had to run them at a low intensity, but I would have had much better coverage.
  8. I had a Fluval Edge reef tank in the past. You need to at least keep the HOB pump running to oxygenate the water. You could run the back chamber empty, use filter floss, purigen, carbon, or some combination depending on your needs. I used two par38 bulbs above the tank for reef lighting. For FOWLR, I think you would be fine with the standard light. You can find different color temperature bulbs online(or at least you used to) if you want to change to a bluer/whiter light.
  9. I had two xr15w's on a 40 breeder before I switched to t5. I regretted not getting the xr30 because of coverage. Intensity was more than enough, but I got major shadowing issues with my SPS. I know you said you were not planning SPS, so you could probably get away with an xr15, but I think the xr30 would be better long run.
  10. I built a DIY bean animal overflow for my 40 breeder. I personally wouldn't go with any other overflow. Here are some of the reasons I like it so much: Completely silent due to full siphon It has 2 safeties, so risk of overflow is essentially zero It is easily adjustable to handle a variety of return pumps that you will go through over the years It can handle massive flow if needed The only thing I don't like about mine is that it takes up a good bit of room in the tank. Next time I would just go with a ghost overflow or try to DIY my own ghost overflow. A ghost is basically a bean animal with most of the plumbing on the exterior of the tank, which allows for a small footprint inside the tank.
  11. It has been almost 24 hours now. Current test results are: Alk: 7.3 Calcium: 390 I am going to manually dose 50ml of BRS alk to bring it up to 8.7, and 150 ml of BRS calcium to bring it to 420. This is much more in line with what I expect the daily drop to be. I'll continue to monitor daily for a while to see if it remains stable.
  12. I calibrate the refractometer with 35ppt calibration fluid before mixing water.
  13. I just did a 30% water change and turned off my dosers. Here are my current test results: Salinity: 1.025 - refractometer Alkalinity: 8.5 - salifert Calcium: 400 - red sea Magnesium: 1440 - red sea pH: 7.8 to 8, hard to tell - API Nitrates: 0 - API picture coming soon
  14. My auto doser comes on 8 times per day. I try to test around the same time per day as much as I can, but life happens sometimes. I am dosing equal parts of BRS 2 part when I dose. I have used a reef calculator, and it is accurate if I dose all at once, i.e. raising from 8.5 to 9 in one go, but I am having trouble keeping it there. For example, let's say I test at noon and it is 8.5, and I dose 2 part to bring it to 9.5, and retest to verify that it is at 9.5. I then increase my doser by the amount I just added. That should hold it steady, but when I retest a few hours later it is back down to somewhere between 8 and 8.5. I have increased my auto doser to the point where it is adding almost 200 ml per day, which is insane compared to what I was dosing a month ago. I never raise it more than 1 dkh at a time if I do a big bump. The doser continues to dose in an attempt to keep it steady throughout the day.
  15. If I am understanding the long post about the nitrogen cycle correctly, alkalinity would decrease as nitrates increase. As denitrification occurs, alkalinity is released back into the water column. My nitrates test at 0, which would mean 1 of 3 things: 1. My tank is not producing enough nitrates to register on the test. 2. The nitrogen cycle is completing 3. My test kit is bad Assuming the test kit is working, then the nitrogen cycle isn't explaining why the alkalinity is dropping so fast.