Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About newreefguy

  • Rank
    Community Member

Contact Methods

  • Website

Profile Information

  • Location
    Near Seattle
  1. gluing pvc

    You are probably referring to Christy's Red Hot Blue Glue. Great stuff! I used it on my system and it worked great .. with no primer required.
  2. Need Plumbing Help

    I try to always use Spears fittings (very common) because the local Red Hook brewery uses them so they must be good! LOL Christy's Red Hot Blue Glue is excellent PVC glue and does not require primer which makes things go much faster. Be sure to buy a PVC pipe cutter; they aren't very expensive and will save you a lot of time. You can also look into flexible PVC pipe (Spa FLEX) for situations where hard plumbing isn't realistic or ill advised. I just found the below page which has some good tips. http://www.aquariumpros.com/articles/pumptips.shtml
  3. Bulkhead Fittings for Airline Tubing

    NICE! Thanks, I will check out the local hobby shop.
  4. Hi guys, Anybody know where I can find plastic barbed threaded bulkhead fittings for airline tubing? I am making B-Ionic reservoirs (for peristaltic pumps) from plastic beverage bottles and want secure fittings for the bottle caps. Thanks! Ryan
  5. Ryan's 29

    Hey guys, Thanks again for all the nice comments! The tank is pretty much fully setup now so I thought I would post some updates. I setup a blog that documents the systems and build process. If you are interested feel free to click below. http://ryansfish.wordpress.com
  6. Hermit Crab ID

    Hey guys, I have had this hermit for a while now and I am not sure what he his. Red/black pincher's and dark green eyes. Any ideas? I don't think he is a standard Scarlet Reef Hermit. Thanks, Ryan
  7. Ryan's 29

    Hey guys, I just wanted to add some more pictures. Not all the equipment is installed yet but its coming along! Ryan
  8. Ryan's 29

    Thanks guys! Yeah the background color turned out pretty good. I was afraid it was going to be too light but I think it will be ok. I was working on the lighting tonight. Had to build some aluminum brackets for the T5 lamps.
  9. Ryan's 29

    Hi everybody, I thought I would share the progress of my newest mixed reef project. This system has been in the works for over a year now and after many many hours it is finally coming together. I am planning to put up a blog site with more details but here are some quick photos and details of the system. I wanted a glass tank and the 29 was the biggest I could go and keep the tank where I wanted it. < Stand and Canopy > The stand and canopy were custom built from scratch by myself. The design is modeled after an Island Aquarium stand and canopy that I bought many years ago. I built it using MDF and plywood (plywood being used in more moisture prone areas). Ironically, the finish work took more time than the actual construction. The primer and paint were applied with an HVLP spray gun. Touchups with a foam roller. < AGA 29 Aquarium Drilled for Closed Loop > The tank is a standard All-Glass Aquarium 29 that has been modified. It has been drilled for a closed loop system. Two 3/4" bulkheads were used for the returns and two 1" bulkheads were used for the intakes. Loc-Line fittings are used for the returns on the inside of the tank for maximum flexibility. The back has been painted a nice shade of blue using Dupli-Color 'Engine Enamel with Ceramic' spray paint (DE 1601 Ford Blue). < Lighting > Lighting will be comprised of both metal halide (for sun) and T5 fluorescent (for actinic supplementation). For metal halide a PFO HQI mini pendant will be used with a 150w Ushio 10,000K lamp. This will be powered by a PFO electronic ballast. For T5 fluorescent a Sunlight Supply TEK 2 24" retrofit kit will be used with Giesemann Pure Actinic 03 and Actinic Plus lamps. I think this will be a great combo for a tank this size with a mixed reef environment. < Plumbing > The closed loop system ranges in diameter from 1" to 1/2". Lots of unions are used to make the system modular and easier to maintain. There is an in-line probe holder for my PH probe. A SCWD wave maker is used for alternating current. A gate valve is used at the pumps output to allow total control of the systems total GPH output. A Pan World 50PX 590 GPH pump is currently used. Using a Gen-X PCX-40 pump the systems maximum flow rate is 1190 GPH. The plumbing on the left is for a chiller that will be used during summer months. It will be tied directly into the closed loop. A gate valve is used at the chillers intake line to throttle back flow to approximately 300 GPH. There is also a drain tapped off the lowest point in the system for easy purging and water changes. All plumbing is within 5" from the back of the stand (most within 4.5"). < Refugium & Skimming> A 13" CPR AquaFuge 2 Hang-on Refugium will be stocked with sand, live rock, and Cheato macro algae. It will be lighted on a reverse cycle to the display tank to help stabilize PH. Skimming will be accomplished with a AquaC Remora / Maxi-Jet 1200 combo. The Remora will also have a Pre-skimmer installed. I didn't do a sump because there will not be enough room in the stand to justify it. < Cooling & Heating > The canopy will have a total of four 92mm Antec PC case fans. Two for fresh air intake and two for exhaust. They will be temperature controlled by my ReefKeeper 2. During the summer months a Prime 1/15 HP mini in-line chiller will be used. An Jager 150w heater will be located in the main tank. < Automation > There will be three major automated systems on this tank. The first will be a ReefKeeper 2 flush-mounted to the stand which will control everything from lights to heating. There will also be a ReefDoser Twin used for dosing E.S.V. B-Ionic 2-Part. Thirdly there will be a custom ATO (auto top off) system that uses a DIY solid state relay-based controller, redundant float switches in an offset configuration, and a 2.5 gal Nalgene reservoir. Initial setup is distilled water but I am going to use a Mighty Mite DI RODI for future water. I use Oceanic Natural sea salt mix. Well that’s about it for now. I will post updates when I have them. Suggestions and comments welcome!
  10. Crazy Pipework

    Will do! Theres plenty to talk about. Everything is DIY .. stand, canopy, drilled AGA 29 /w painted back, etc, etc, etc ..
  11. Crazy Pipework

    Yeah the extra loop on the right side was to keep it within 4.5" from the back of the stand. Using two 45 degree elbows instead of two 90 degree elbows saves about 1" of depth. It’s going against a wall in my entry and I want it to be as close to the wall as possible.
  12. Crazy Pipework

    Thanks for the nice comments! Lol yeah I could have used flex PVC for some of it but with the probe mount and chiller taps a lot of it would have needed to have been rigid anyway. Going all rigid made the whole system more streamlined. The gate valve and ball valve on the left side are so that I can add and remove the chiller without draining the whole system. I only need the chiller for Summer months. I used a gate valve on the chiller input so that I can throttle back the flow to about 300gph which is what my little chiller is rated for.
  13. Crazy Pipework

    Hey everybody, I have been a member for a long time but haven't posted in quite a while. Anyway, I am assembling a new 29gal system and thought I would share some pics of the pipework I have been working on. I just have to finish the drain spigot and then give it the old water test. Basically my goal was to have a drilled closed loop with two 3/4" returns and two 1" drains and a SCWD, taps for a chiller, a probe holder for my PH probe, modularity for easy maintenance and repair, and a system drain for easy water changes and system discharging. I also had the requirement that none of it stuck out any further than 4.5" from the back of the stand. Tall order but all-in-all it turned out ok! It was a big job .. I don't want to even think about how many bushings I had to cut and deburr.
  14. Changed my lighting...Suggestions Welcome!

    I believe a 14k lamp has more intense light (higher PAR?) than a 20k lamp so that might be why the bleaching became more noticeable. The last time I looked into halide lighting for my tank I think I read somewhere that a 10k lamp would have more intense light than a 14k lamp.
  15. My First D40 Pics

    Thanks guys!