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About Aiptasia

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    Hitchhiking on your LR

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  1. coral mucus good?

    It really depends on the coral and what it's trying to accomplish. Some corals will spit mucous as a defence response to being touched or in chemical warfare with another coral. Some corals will secrete mucous to rid themselves of bacteria or algae that have grown on, or inside of them. Some corals will also spit zooxanthellae cells to regulate the amount of internal symbiotic algaes. Or, they do it in response to an injury.
  2. 6 gallon maintenance

    Weekly, 1/4 to 1/2 the tank.
  3. Depends if it comes into contact with the tank water or not. Generally, it's safe unless the cleaning solution is easily airisolized (lysol spray cleaners, squirt bottles, etc.), which I would avoid at all costs. However, mopping the floors around the tank with ammonia products or cleaning a countertop next to the tank with bleach water would be o.k. if you can avoid droplets from reaching the tank water. If you need to do cleaning on the tank itself or around the edges or hinges, try using plain old tapwater and elbow grease first. Tap water is usually sufficient for removing salt creep and minor stains, dust, etc. In a pinch, add a little vinegar to a paper towel to wipe down the front and side glass of the tank to remove any streaks or hard water stains that won't come off with plain water.
  4. shrimp feading time?

    how about twice a week? That's all I feed my scrimps. It keeps them hungry and scavenging the tank for bits of deutritus. Overfed fish/inverts don't live as long as leaners ones IMHO.
  5. quick zoo ?

    Yes, it probably would irritate them a little to be brushed by the substrate "dust" like that, but they should be able to shed any deposits readily enough if they're healthy. Just take a turkey baster or large plastic artists syringe and blow the dust off of them with tank water.
  6. anyone ordered from GARF?

    I've ordered their reef janitor packs, which are great. True mexican red-legged hermits and a wide variety of long living snails (ceriths, margaritas, nerites, etc.). I absolutely hate how their website is layed out, as it has no proper order page. I respect their attempts at creating aritificial live rock, but i'm not sure i'd agree with their methods or that "anyone can do it" without a lot of time and seed rock also in the tank. I'd shop around for coral frags through a lot of different companies before ordering from them, like: E-tropicals.com, palmettoreefs.com or Dr. Mac's.
  7. Nano Nightmares!

    No, but I have woken up to low tide in the living room before. I had a 55 gallon reef tank that had a warped wooden stand (about a 10 year old stand). I woke up to a huge mess on my living room floor one morning when the tank developed a huge frankenstein crack on the front glass pane. All I can say is, it took me a few years before setting up my next reef tank. Just goes to show you, a wooden tank stand can potentially be a problem.
  8. Usually, temps over 84 degrees are to be avoided. You need to keep the tank temps between 78-82 degrees for most reef tanks. Consider getting an ice probe chiller for the tank. They run about $150 and are about the size of a powerhead and will reduce your tank temps.
  9. Help with livestock setup

    I perfer the little mexican red legged crabs to blue leggeds. Use five (one per two gallons). Double the amount of snails and mix up the species if you can, not just turbos or astreas. Just mix up the species. Ceriths, Nerites, margaritas, etc. If you're getting a pair of cleaner shrimps, get a mated pair as they can fight amongst themselves, or just go with one.
  10. Joe's Juice in a 2.5g?

    Probably not if you use it for target treating of aiptasia with a syringe. You can also use vinegar injections with little risk.
  11. Online stores

    www.drsfostersmith.com www.thatfishplace.com www.exoticfish.com
  12. Where Can I Get Extra Hermit Shells?

    or walk along the beach and pick up what you need. Most LFS's will have extra shells, or shell shops at the beach will have plenty.
  13. New Nano inventory

    Robert, Not to be a playa hater, but nano-reefs are a big challenge for the most experienced SW aquarists out there. If I were you, i'd start out with a FOWLR (fish only with live rock) tank of a little larger size (say 20-40 gallons) just based on my own experience in the hobby. Fish are very hardy in comparison to delicate corals, and by combining the fish only tank with some live rock, you can try your hand at raising corals and corraline algaes that spring up out of the LR itself. Plus, if you go with a larger tank, you have more water volume to play with, which means there's more of a margin for error in all aspects of tank care. Nano-reefs are so small, that you have to be absolutely perfect in your animal/plant husbandry to create a small (less than 10 gallon) reef paradaise. Reef animals are important to our planet and it's foolish to think you can just jump right in and expect to have any kind of success with a mini-reef. Besides, how cool would a larger tank look with amazing looking fish and liverock in it? Read everything that you can about all kinds of reef tanks, and check out www.reefcentral.com. That website is the best resource you'll ever come across for reef aquaria. Books by John H. Tullock and Sprung/Delbeek are great resources. If you're a veteran of FW tanks, imagine the most complex multi-organismed planted CO2 dutch aquaria combined with a discus tank, then squeeze it down to less than 10 gallons and combine this with an associates degree in water chemistry and you'll start to see how tough it is to properly care for a nano-reef. Go big, then go small. The life you save may be your own coral!
  14. water changes during cycling?

    Are you guys crazy? Don't do any water changes, as you'll be stalling and re-stalling the LR cure every time you change out the water. It's very simple, any LR you get (cured, uncured, etc.) is going to have some die off due to air exposure and drying. Allow the LR to cure in the tank with the lights off (prevents algae blooms) and run heavy skimming 24/7 on the tank to remove protein wastes while the LR cures. Yes, uncured rock is smelly and gross and takes four to eight weeks for a proper cure, but it's well worth it in the long run. You'll see definite ammonia, nitrite and nitrate spikes (just like cycling any type of aquaria), but with good quality LR, the bacteria within should easily begin to handle all of that in due time while it cures. Make sure you keep your calcium above 400 ppm and your pH at 8.2-8.4 and dump the skimmer cup as much as you can. Keep the lights OFF! I can't stress how crucial this is. Foul, curing LR is going to be high in nitrite and nitrates, and running lights is just begging for problematic algae blooms. Changing water during the cure runs the risk of depriving the bacteria of their food source, stalling the curing time and prolonging the whole process. When your test kits read 0/0/0 on ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, you can feel secure that the rock has properly cured. Don't worry. Plenty of life will survive this process and emerge out of your LR as it ages.
  15. Bioballs

    In a berlin style or Monaco style reef tank, yep. Bio balls are efficient beds for nitrosomonas and nitrobactir bacteria to breed in, which is great for fish only systems where you don't care about nitrates. Since high nitrate levels are toxic to reef life, it's best to remove any areas where high levels of nitrification can outstrip the live rock's ability to dentrify nitrates. In other words, most bio-media becomes a nitrate trap. It's best to let the LR do all of the nitrification/denitrification for you naturally, eventually reaching it's own balance.