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About xxmurrxx

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  • Birthday 10/26/1984

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    Canada Ontario
  1. BioCube 8 - Upgrade Ideas

    I can do a pic of the light built into the hood, but I still haven't set up the tank yet so no FTS yet. I'd def recommend the kit, its pretty cheap compared to the cost of replacing the pc bulbs twice a year, and gives a lot better output.
  2. BioCube 8 - Upgrade Ideas

    Yeah I ended up getting the kit, just put it all together the other day. Just one string due to it only being 9 LED's. I have the rapidled setup on my 75 gal as well with 4 strings. Pretty happy with their products.
  3. BioCube 8 - Upgrade Ideas

    From Windsor, You? Ordered the Rapid LED kit, waiting for it to arrive. 6RB/2CW/1UV Planning on a korila 240
  4. Biocube 29 return pump?

    mj1200, Never had a problem with it when I had my 29
  5. Biocube 8 Questions

    Hey, I have a few questions regarding setting up a bc8. My goal is to make it a zoa garden tank, with one possibly two small fish. I have a successful 75 gallon running at the moment and have had a successful 29 gallon biocube prior to that so I understand the basics of keeping a sw tank. I picked up this bc8 a while ago and never got around to setting it up, I plan on the rapid led kit and am just wondering a few things before I do: 1. With a zoo only tank, would I be able to get away with just the return pump alone (without a powerhead)? -With or without a pump upgrade? (Looking at the pico ev0 1200 if I do upgrade) 2. Would I be able to run this tank without a heater? I would expect with the small size, and pump running , and closed hood it should be heater enough without one? -If not, any suggestions on a heater that will fit in the back? 1st chamber 3. What will evaporation look like with the 8Gal tank? I remember my bc29 was not too bad, my 75 is crazy due to it all being open I'm guessing but just wondering if something like an ATO would be necessary? Suggestions on alternate equipment welcomed, as well as live stock suggestions. Cheers.
  6. BioCube 8 - Upgrade Ideas

    Picked up a used BC8 in good condition a while ago and am thinking of firing it up. It's currently all stock and will need new bulbs so lights are a def need. My goal for this tank = Keep the stock hood, run it without a heater if possible, run without a powerhead if possible. Planning on one possibly two fish (damsel, or clown or goby, not really sure) and either a zoa dominated tank or colourful shroom tank so flow should not be an issue without the powerhead. Planning on the following upgrades, Please feel free to add ideas.. Im looking to put some money into this setup but not tonnes so please don't say mp10, radion, etc. Lights: Rapid LED Kit - Non dimable (I have the disable on my 75 and it's nice but I'm looking for a simple setup without the extra pot setup and extra power supply to run it) -Thinking of a 7RB / 2 CW bulb setup Media Basket: InTank.. had it for my 29bc in the past it was great, just hate the price tag on it for the bc8 but eh... Others: ? Going to see how it goes without an ATO for now. Since its going to be a zoo or shroom tank (and the size itself) I'm not too worried about a skimmer or reactor.
  7. Rapid led color choices

    Hey, looking for some input on a new led build I want to do for my new 75g (not exactly a nano but I'm a fan of this forum). Looking at the rapid led 75gal solder less dimmable kit which includes: Are the "stock" colors a good ratio? Any suggestions on color alternates? I'm definetly thinking more blue and less white, I have the 50/50 kit over my biocube and the whites are 25 percent and blues almost full. 2 x 6" x 20" Drilled/Tapped Heatsinks 18 Solderless Cool White Cree XP-G LEDs 20 Solderless Royal Blue Cree XT-E LEDs 6 Solderless Violet UV LEDs 2 Solderless Red Cree XP-E LEDs 2 Solderless Green Cree XP-E LEDs 48 x 80 degree lenses
  8. Tried the tube lower, higher no difference really.
  9. On mine it is going down the pipe, that was just a random google pic of the overflow kit I have. Didn't notice that, guy must have it on backwards. I checked mine the tube was barely in, knocked it down lower, going to give it a try tomorrow, ill take out the extra vent and see what happens.
  10. Yeah, It came like that (pretty much like the picture below) I have no tried to adjust it or anything though just threw it in as it came. Maybe the air tube is not low enough in the pipe? It's driving me bokers.. almost want to go full siphon with two overflows and run my return over the back of my tank. Would probably look cheesy though.
  11. Here are some pictures, I re-did my overflow plumbing and I do realize that the return and overflow should not be in the same spot, Im just trying to get this thing quiet.. and it's not working Pictures below (overflow part is on the left), Problems are the same as in the origional post, shortening the run did not really help much. Issues: -Pipes shake due to pressure (I know I have the pipe a little deep but I have tried closer to the water line) -Loud noise from water entering sump (I have tried a "90" With a U shape thing, made it quiet but then water backs up and shoots out of my air vent. -All is solved if I back my return way off... but i'm talking barely any flow coming out. Possible problem causers? -Marineland RR tank with premade Durso (Thing has holes drilled into the "90"? Maybe air hole in the durso is too small? A movie... http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/xxmurrxx/?action=view&current=file-30.mp4
  12. I just purchased a 75gal RR tank upgrade from my biocube, first time dealing with plumbing and a sump, etc. Some questions. 1. I did a bunch of reading of PVC cements, for the most part it seems most are reef safe once dry. Is this true for all schedule 40 cements? I used a grey one pictured in the link below. (Sluyter 10666) The poison sign is a little discomforting lol, I know it's supposed to be fine when cured compared to wet but thought I'd ask about the one I used before the tank gets stocked and running. http://www.ihlcanada.com/GLUEPVC4L.html 2. I'm running the durso standpipe that came with the tank, any tips for the best way to plumb the overflow? Is straight down a bad idea? A long run a bad idea? Currently I have a long run and cant really seem to get it quiet, I either hear water crashing in the pipe or massive gurgle in the sump. I can eliminate both by toning down the pump, but then there is barely any flow coming out. (3/4" return fed by mag 9.5 branched off to two reactors, 1" drain apron 3-4 feet with "45's", valve, air vent "T") I'll put pictures up when possible, currently dealing with a leaky bulkhead though so it's all apart. I'm thinking of just running a short pipe down, into a "90", short run then down for my drain, Might be better than the long run with all the joints I have in it? I'm sure ill be posting up more questions as they come in this thread, would appreciate some ideas or answers for the above. Cheers.
  13. xxmurrxx Biocube 29 Build

    Long time no update! Sorry to the couple peepz that replied but yeah, lights are doing good 100x better than the PC's. Running Whites 50%, blues about 90% If I had to do it all over there def would have been more blue to white ratio. prob 1/3 white and 2/3 blue. Temp is not really an issue for me right now, tank is in the basement. Have not noticed a difference from the LED's to the PC's. Fans were upgraded though. Update FTS on the first page. Shortly i'm upgrading to a 75G
  14. Biopellet Reactor Pump

    Not too sure, I'm a fan of brs stuff so maybe those, or whatever the LFS has, not too much of a selection locally.