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About sweevo

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    Nano Reefer
  • Birthday 05/26/1965

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  1. LED lamp for 40G ... advise?

    I think at a depth 0f 18" some optics might be an idea but a lot will depend on what you're planning to keep under them and how close the rim the LED's will be. Also if you don't use optics the LED's near the front edges may spill lots of light outside of the tank. You can always add optics to the DIY at a later date anyway if you think you need them though so I wouldn't worry too much about them for now.
  2. LED lamp for 40G ... advise?

    skr, my own DIY was built for my 22" cube. I've got 6 rows of LED's (5 per chain) on a 12" x 10" heatsink at 2" centers. I'm pretty sure the max number of XRE's off one buckpuck is 6 so you'll need to rework your design to take this into account. Evilc66 will confirm this shortly i'm sure. I've had good results with SPS over the past six months under my DIY so you should be good on the numbers of LED's you're thinking about. I would be inclined though to suggest you lay them out in a more even/square fashion to reflect the surface area of your tank, maybe 5 x 6 similar to my own, ie 5 chains of 6 or like my own 6 chains of 5. I've got a 50/50 ratio between the blues and whites and things look great. I've also got and Acro and Hystrix at approx 14" deep doing well with the XRE's only being driven at 60% power. HTH
  3. LED Unit Blueprint

    Looks like the LED revolution on here goes from strength to strength too, some fantastic builds! Look what you started Evilc !!!! Well it's been a few months in the making, various versions of code, things added, modified and removed along the way, but it's finally complete! There's been a few hurdles along the way, stuff like getting the code to work with a 24 hour clock cycle, running out of memory (!!!), melting temperature sensors etc ! Anyway, here's a few pics of the new controller which now gives me full control over the DIY, ie on time, photo period, blue intensity and white intensity. I've also added a feature whereby I can change these parameters and press a button to make it reprogram itself and set the lighting accordingly to where ever in the lighting cycle it should be. I used an old clip from an old Seio PH to make a clip so I could attach it to the larger project box which houses the BuckPucks etc. Pic of it sat on the tank. I've also added a thermometer to the controller which gives the current temp along with average temperatures for the past hour, 24 hours and week. It also displays a warning if the temp moves outside of 23C to 29C. I decided to add this feature so I could get a better idea of how stable the water temp is during the summer. I opted to use an LM35 to measure the temperature, it's sat in a spare Salifert test vial which is filled with epoxy to waterproof it. 99% of the time the readings displayed are stable and within the 1C tolerance limits stated for the LM35 but I do get the occasional reading which jumps outside this by up to a degree more which is a bit annoying. I've found increasing the sample rate (100x every second currently and averaged out over the course of a minute) has helped reduce these anomalies but they still do happen. Last of all , here's a link to my code. Feel free to examine, re engineer and adapt. I'm not a programmer by trade and I know that the structure of it all could be written in a more "professional" manner so all you propeller heads out there go easy on me. CODE
  4. ReefBuddy DIY Aquarium Controller $89

    How are you planning to waterproof your temperature sensor ?
  5. So, how are the LED tanks doing?

    Here's a now and then comparison for a Seriatopora frag I added approx 6 weeks ago. 3rd July 15th July
  6. So, how are the LED tanks doing?

    I added quite a few SPS frags approx 6 weeks ago and all are growing. I'll post some pics up when I get chance (just rebuilt a new PC tonight after my previous one died on me) as I've got a seriatopora which has grown really well ! This is running 30 XRE's (50/50) at approx 60% power.
  7. Mother of all LED projects

    Do you live in the UK or did you charter a C130 Hercules to bring it over to the U.S? Very impressive and bold project you've undertaken here, good luck with it and be sure to post plent of pics.
  8. Yet another LED build

    Yeah, be careful I got over excited with my own and ramped it up to 100% after around 10 days. It took 1 to 2 months before my LPS fully recovered. I ended up running at 50% for about 10-12 weeks and have only recently increased it to 60% since adding some SPS frags. Nice build by the way. Got some more pics?
  9. Thanks for the diagram, it's a great help. Need to read up on biasing transistors as this the point where I look at circuit diagrams and go pale. Think I got a few transistors stashed away in my box of all things electronics. I'll have a rummage tonight.
  10. LED Unit Blueprint

    Here's a few pics to show the fruits of my labours this past week or two. Far too many late nights at the keyboard. This is just the regular display, shows the time and the current output levels of the blues and white LED's. I've wired up a number of tactile switches, one of which can be used to toggle the info on the display. From this display I can press various switches to increase the on time (1 hour at a time), increase the output of the royal blue and/or white LED's (when the lights are on) and also increase the total photo period to between 2 and 12 hours. Just deciding which way i'm going solve my I/O pin shortage now and then it'll be time to get the soldering iron out again.
  11. The ATMega I've got is a 168, not sure if there's much difference in terms of drive current. What LED drivers did you use, buckpucks too?
  12. Ok, had a look at wiring diagrams (fig14) in the datasheet for the Buckpucks. They've got a 2N4403 (PNP) wired up to the CTL and 5V Ref pins. Can you explain which way I should I wire up the biasing resistor and PWM signal coming into the base please? I thought the PWM signal would need to be 0.7V before the transistor would switch you see.
  13. Thought you might be the man to know. Could using an optocoupler (CNY75) in the same manner work? Just trying to keep it simpler/tidy.
  14. Just finished all the coding for my RTC and LCD display for my DIY LED Rig. Only problem I've got now is that i've not got enough digital output pins to be able to drive it, the cooling fans AND the six buckpucks all off seperate digital I/O pins. I wondered if anyone had tried to control 2 or 3 buckoucks using PWM from a single I/O pin on an Arduino/ATMega ? I know the max current for an I/O pin is 40mA, also the input impedance of the Buckpuck CTL pin is listed as 1K. Not sure if Ohms law can be applied here but I make the current required to drive one CTL pin 5mA, ie 5V/1000ohms. If all this is correct then driving 3 CTL pins would only require 15mA which is well within the 40mA limit. Anyone tried controlling more than one Buckpuck like this?
  15. LED Unit Blueprint

    It's an Aquaone Aquience 550. Not sure you can get them in the US or not. Just wish i'd gone for the bigger one !