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Fish Bowl

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About Fish Bowl

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    Teaching people to the best of my ability, how to keep Dragonets alive.
  1. Macro Feast - Anyone growing it?

    From my experiences of growing Gracilaria, it does significantly better under very high flow rates compared to Chaeto or Ulva and like lower salinity than you would probably like to use for a reef (1.019-1.016) and also, its slower growing than Chaeto and Ulva and is easily out competed by them which is why if you plan on using them in a fuge together, a sectioned out refugium is best with them first in line for nitrates and po4. If you don't want to grow it for display or use it for nutrient export, I highly advise going to Walmart or something and buying a clear plastic tub, fill it with saltwater and then throw a powerhead/long air line/stick and some market shrimp in there. You'll have a forest by the end of the month if you keep the salinity constant guaranteed. #1 Tang/Angelfish food I've ever used in terms of macros + my population of pods seem to like living in there better.
  2. To those who debate on buying fish from Petco...

    Well I did say that what I may be saying may not apply to all petcos (Notice disclaimer at the end of my last post) so it's entierly possible that there are minor differences in maintenance and some equipment being used. As for the SW fish ordering aspect, I suppose my friend assumed I meant FW only while I interpreted it as a whole, at least that's clarified now. I'm glad to know that there's quite a few managers out there that order fish irresponsibly (possibly coral) that a majority of their employees/customers lack the knowledge/capability to keep. The oscar seller may either be quite challenged in the fish knowledge department, or may be under one of those policies to sell a product regardless of consequences from the standing manager. I have heard of an incident a while back regarding either a petco or petsmart worker that got let go for not selling fish when he could have (Not sure about validity of this incident but worth mentioning at the moment anyways) I don't think I was the one who said petco should have this or not, but I will however take the liberty to re-state/add/clarify on to what I mentioned about this earlier. A. They see sick fish = think all your fish have the sickness (That's actually true if it's already in the DT's) and of course they don't understand it's a QT for an assorted treatment = they feel even less secure about purchasing. B. When you treat using Hypo/Copper based meds, it isn't possible to have an employee(s) manage all the water parameters (You swear petco is going be happy letting their workers do a 90% water change for a horrible ammonia spike frequently + spend excess money on salt/pH buffing equipment and then holding the fish for 2-6+ weeks only to sell it for even less of a profit margin than they would just selling it as is) = why it is unreasonable for people to ask of such. C. Not cost effective if the fish has bacterial infections even in bulk. As far as I know there is no bulk SW Maracyn-2 out there and each unit of 16 at cost is anywhere between 8-10 bucks. Furan-2 bulk is about 75-100, 5 gal cupramine from sea-chem is about 150 with the first 2 making the water either yellow or neon colored and the latter giving customers a slight risk of wiping out all their inverts if they accidentally add some of the water for whatever reason. AND labor/carbon to clean out all the residue from medication AND it may be ALL that work just to treat single clownfish and then for it to die in the end regardless. Not exactly appealing looking and I won't even bother getting into Formalin,Methylene Blue, Kanamycin, Metronidazole and a Praziquantel based med. So I hope that at least the people reading this understand that this is a business (specifically big corporation), not a knowledgeable store with ideal workers and management (I'm sure a lot of us wish even our LFS were like that ) and not somewhere all our dreams of an ideal store come to life. Don't go blaming the people who try. BLAME THE GUY WHO SELLS OSCARS TO GOLDFISH KEEPERS!!! lol. I am glad your putting all this effort into improving the experiences/opinions of most non/previous petco clientele. Many other workers there and such wouldn't even consider putting nearly as much effort into improving how things work around their own petco as you have.
  3. To those who debate on buying fish from Petco...

    I do agree that each petco is significantly different from the next in terms of how they care for their pets and in addition to simply avoiding petco, just invest in a QT since disease is possible from ANYONE's tank or STORE. I'll throw in my final add in about the petcos I visited. Round 1 "All your Oscars have severe hole in the head" - me "That's how they normally look" - worker "I need you to treat the oscars for hexamita" - manager to the worker (I highly doubt it was that though and more of a water quality issue) "Facepalm" - me So Petco1 basically attempted to lie to me as if I didn't know what an oscar is supposed to look like. IF in the case that you don't know something, don't bother spouting out false information because then I wouldn't be so harsh about all of this. Sadly there was a picture on the card as well...so I doubt it's smart to lie to anyone about it unless you suspect they don't like to look at pictures. "Round 2" "I have gold fish, can I put that fish in my tank? (Points to oscars)" - random customer "They get along just fine!" - worker "Can I get 2? and will they be okay in a 20 gallon?" - random customer "No problem! they won't grow bigger than the tank space they have anyways" - worker "....." - me Petco2 is another case of spreading false information. I think it's about a 5-10% chance that you will have an oscar that gets along with goldfish (My friend has a 12 inch one that lives happily with Neon Tetras and has never eaten one since they've lived together). Additionally, I hate it when people decide to throw around that stupid fish don't exceed their tank size in growth....Yes they do, and then suffer from stunting or abnormal body development (Can't think of the other word atm) Oh and 2 oscars in a 20 is a likely chance of 1 = dead in a few months (Most people that I've met around here significantly overfeed their fish) And now that I'm done with my mini flaming of petco. I will now mention some of the things that should clarify some things based on what I know from my friend who is a manager at a petco. 1. The whole not dosing anything is a GOOD idea simply because some facilities lack real testing equipment and use the junk strips (Plus I wouldn't want to trust potentially incompetent workers with dosing my store tanks) 2. It isn't reasonable for petco to change water as frequently (or infrequently) as we do simply because they don't have the workers or time or both to do such (At least from the one she manages) 3. Sick/unwanted fish are usually put down and there isn't enough of a knowledgeable staff to perform hyposalinity for ich nor do they have the time to constantly regulate the pH and salinity levels (Especially with hydrometers) 4. They are usually sent fish that corporate chooses for them. The best they can do is not accept a shipment, but for the most part most diseases/flukes and so forth won't be too visible on fish immediately (QT for even a week is unreasonable for most stores let alone petco) 5. Freshwater dips do nothing for ICH and if it does I would love to see proof 6.They have a crappy 60 gallon sump with an undersized skimmer for roughly 18 tanks (May not be true for all petcos) There's probably more that I'm forgetting, but lets leave it at that for now Oh and don't take my information for fact. My information basically comes from a total of 3 petcos 2 of which are pretty bad at caring for fish (the 3rd one isn't that great either aside from one worker and the manager) vs however many there are that could be potentially bad OR good in the US
  4. The many methods of training Dragonets

    Wow, I missed out on a lot during my busy times. While I'm a bit late for the party....I will however generally answer things I may have not clarified or missed or may need re-clarification. -COVER ALL EXTENDED CONTAINERS holding a mandarin of any sorts. As I mentioned in the OP I have lost one due to an unexpected leap of faith one day sadly. -As for lighting, keep in mind they too can go blind from harsh lighting just as we can (I never thought of mentioning this before for some reason ) and do keep in mind, they are somewhat easily spooked and may further reduce their likely hood to feed. So do everything that could scare them, in moderation. -As for enriching food such as brine shrimp, and those "Bio-Encapsulated" Frozen Fish Foods: I tend to see it as a necessity regardless of whether or not it has been previously "enriched" since in the case of frozen foods we should be rinsing off the frozen food water due to all the phosphates, and other nasties to begin with which of course most of the vitamins will be leeched out already in turn = replace it with even better -Also, for when the mandarin seems stressed for too long of a period in the breeder/fish keeper. Then simply switch to another method (Bowl,Shot Glass, etc) since at least you can still attempt to train it before it may be too late or during the time period in which it feeds on pods in conjunction to training. -For training containers, the bigger the better. -Glass Bowl/Shot Glass method works well with both pellets and mysis as long as the flow isn't excessively strong = stuff flows away rather than slowly in a circle. And most importantly, ALWAYS be prepared before jumping into raising one of these and when in doubt about something its always a good idea to ask before jumping the gun, especially for something long term like this
  5. Coral beauty hiding and swimming on side

    Hate to say it but it sounds like cyanide. Most Harder to catch fish (Basically almost all angelfish) from indonesia are usually caught with cyanide regardless if its illegal or not. From there it's sold "Cheaply" to the wholeseller and then its shipped out to the retailer (or picked by the retailer if it doesn't show any initial signs of such).
  6. Tang in a 34 gallon?

    People will probably yell at me for saying this but if your going to use the 34 as a grow out for JUST the tang, I don't see much of a problem so long as you understand that it is a MUST to upgrade down the line (preferably sometime soon). However...as an algae eater in a 34? MAN that's one hell of an expensive algae eater (Cheapest one being about 12 dollars) vs something that's only about 1-2 dollars at most (and won't over crowd the tank for the most part).
  7. The many methods of training Dragonets

    Glad to hear your LFS sells them trained since so many like to sell you the one that's going to die if you don't do anything about it .
  8. Maroon Clown Pair Issues...

    Put a clay pot lying down somewhere around the anemone. That helps SOMETIMES. Unfortunately I don't know of any other way that will stop them from clearing out stuff (usually around the anemone) consistently.
  9. ORA aquacultured spotted Mandarin Goby

    Excuse the late reply, I've been on vacation If the two methods your using don't work, then I recommend trying a different one. Also, I noticed you mentioned the food is gently blowing in the back, but is it moving as if it were alive? That's the key to all the methods working since not every dragonet will readily eat "dead" stuff. If the frozen still doesn't work out, then it's time to go to square 1 and go with live brine > Frozen > Chopped or Small Mysis/everything else.
  10. ORA aquacultured spotted Mandarin Goby

    I think the maroon pair probably were just defending their nest (with their eggs being eaten when they weren't paying attention since dragonets in the wild do eat some fish eggs) instead of defending the dragonet. I'm glad yours is eating well though and as for the non fighting aspect, whoever is running understands that the other one is the boss of the tank or in some cases with the lack of a female, the males have no reason to compete. Hopefully everyone reads your last sentence since dragonets (tank raised or not) are definitely not beginner fish by any means.
  11. Which Sandsifter?

    Don't forget to warn him about mysterious red spots that may occur on his fish/missing peppermint shrimp thereafter due to the pistol shrimp. Oh yea another thing I'd like to mention about gobies is that they often times LOVE to dig under your rock work, so if you do decide to get one in the long run regardless. Make sure your rock work is stable, otherwise you won't be happy.
  12. skunk cleaner help

    I hope you realize that some LFS have the capability of going and hand picking their own live stock right? That aside...from what you said I'm 99.9% sure that the shrimp molted some time before you bought it (within the day even) which makes it even more sensitive than normal and gives them a high mortality rate. I learned experience first hand when I started a long time ago. Most expensive puffer meal ever.
  13. This thing is crazy!

    While they are notorious for their destructive behavior, they make quite nice pets, particularly the peacock species which is quite interactive and will learn how to even eat from your hand.
  14. Cleaning LR in Filter Chambers

    No since scooters from my experience are the easiest of the dragonets to train BY FAR with some accepting frozen foods with little to no training at all. Also realistically, are you going to have a 100+ gallon refugium connected to a 5 gallon display tank? Not to mention only a small fraction of those copepods will make it to that 5 gallon tank and it will be rather cramped for any fish in my opinion. Try flipping it around instead and then you have yourself a reasonable (although small for that tank size comparison) refugium.
  15. Which Sandsifter?

    The reason why there's conflicting stories about them is because when they're small they can't really harm anything and stir up the sand. When they're big they will attempt and CAN eat some of your live stock. Basically: In tank = Bad(Eventually) and In Refugium w/ DSB = Great If I had a choice I would put in some Nassarius Snails to do the sand "cleaning" for you. (More like stirring but you get the idea). Also if you don't mind taking chances Balylonian Whelks (Sometimes called Orange Spot Nassarius or Tiger Snails) do the same thing. The only "risk" behind them is the fact that they CAN be predatory towards some animals (Clams are the major one according to some other people) in a tank, however in my experiences with having them they have never eaten a Clam,Fish,Snail or Shrimp unless if it was already on the verge of death and are overall HIGHLY opportunistic eaters. If your ever scared of them or don't want to take chances on the Whelks then stick to the Narssarius.