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About Bishop

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    Nano Reefer
  1. There is to much light on the lens. This is one example why it is better to take aquarium shots in a dark room. You want more light inside the tank than outside so that you don't have any unwanted outside light (that being reflected off the lens to the glass) to reflect off the tank.
  2. Shooting at an aperture of around f/8 is generally gonna give you a better image so the f/5.7 when zoomed shouldn't be a huge issue. As far as the camera goes overall, the "S" series is Canon's best line of Pocket cameras with the "g" series being the only better line of Point and shoots. Overall, this is the camera I would reccomend to anyone wanting a great camera but not interested in the bulk of a DSLR. This is no DSLR as you already know. You are not going to have the ability to pull out external speedlites for when you want them. It's not going to give you the same image quality as a DSLR. This camera does offer the most for it's size though and I think you be very happy with the purchase. Even with two DSLRs and a bag for of lenses and gear, I still wish I have an "S" series just for casual carry.
  3. External flash for fish shots

    Looks like someone is really starting to see the power of the speedlite. I've never really had to adjust my flash compensation. I set mine to use ETTL and leave it at that. Was the flast running on manual for the first shots?
  4. Bow-front troubles

    Some curved glass seems to be flawless. I have a 12 gallon nano cube and I can get great shots through it. The curved glass on my old 36 gallon bowfront was a no-go when it came to photos though. Might indeed just be due to being more curved. You always have the option of using a surface viewer to get top down shots
  5. Taking wide angle photos. Any Tips?

    While I can agree that the White balance looks off, that is nothing more than preference the same as the color temp of the lights over your tank. This can easily be changed in your post processing software. No Idea what issues you have with that shot but it certainly has nothing to do with the lens. This is obviously not a fast lens at f/4.5 and it's my guess that you don't have much light over the tank considering the size and the types of coral. Also looks like it is an All-in-one tank. My suggestion, if you want a good photo, is to turn off all water flow in the tank and get more light into it. This will let you increase your shutter speed to prevent motion blur from moving fish and xenia as well as cut the ISO back down. The goal should be to shoot at an aperture of around f8. Wide open will certainly loose sharpness on this lens. One thing I did notice in the posted pic is that there is image degradation. Not sure if that is from being uploaded to the web or from some serious post processing work? Is this the image from the camera or close to it? If not, then the original image would show more of what is wrong when looking for advise.
  6. Regardless of anything else, I'm actually surprised that you get much noise at ISO 500 let alone 200. To me, this suggest a lack of light as well, however, I have never gotten noise when using a speedlite. I really don't know what to tell you because I do not even know what the image out of the camera even looks like. The more you have to change in post process, the more you loose image quality from doing so. The photo you have looks really good as it is so the little extra sharpness you are looking for could easily have been lost to post processing. Also, you generally have to add sharpness to an image to get it tack sharp anyway. An Out of Camera image and and Exif file can really go a long way to identifying minor issues
  7. Did you take the time to cut all the flow in the tank off? One thing that I notice is that it looks like you are running a strong noise reduction in Post process. Since there is no issue with a dark background, try bringing the iso back down to 100. Overall, it actually looks like a good shot though.
  8. Best ways to use flash?

    I use flash when shooting my tank. I set up two speedlites above the tank to shoot directly into it. There is benifit to having a forward flash but it needs to be off camera as well and you have to find a position that will avoid the glare. Post Process white balance adjustments will get your colors closer to where you want them to be but it will take some deeper editing if you want the actinic look on coral to come back. Using flash will give you a flawless sharp image but you sacrifice the normal lighting of the tank. Here is a decent article for photographing fish, although longer than it needs to be and written for someone that just bought there very first camera that morning.
  9. Where to purchase cheap Canon 60D?

    The Canon Loyalty Program is usually the cheapest way to go next to finding a good deal on craigslist for a used one.... $300 though, not gonna happen outside of a dim lit alley.
  10. Roger's Nikon Adventure

    It's really just a personal preference I think but I prefer to take all my tank shots with a Couple speedlites over the tank and maybe infront of the tank as long as I can avoid the glare on the glass.
  11. Roger's Nikon Adventure

    Photobucket is very limited in image size so if you let them get sized down when uploading, they are basically destroyed. I use Flickr. Larger images and I've never had quality issues.
  12. T3i tips and recommendations.

    +1 In most cases, it could be the only lens you ever really need until you need faster lenses for low light or willing to pay good money for some extra image quality. A 50mm f/1.8 is a must have lens. It feels like something that came out of a gumball machine but it works in low light and gives an incredible image. A 100mm f/2.8 or sigma 150mm f/2.8 macro would be my next suggestion. Between a 18-55mm kit lens, 50mm F/1.8 and a 100mm or 150mm, you would have just about all of your bases covered for focal lenghts, ability to shoot in low light, and macro.
  13. DSLR newb, would like pointers

    Shooting in manual mode vs Aperture priority means that you are either manually setting the shutter speed to exactly what the camera would have put it at on auto anyway or you are letting ISO cover your ass. I typically go with Av and manual control my ISO so to change the shutter speed is gonna do nothing more than change the exposure and in AP mode, you can still change the Shutter speed by changing the exposure level if that is needed. This is the reason photographers get stuck in TV or AV modes. Every shot has a priority. Most lenses have an aperture sweet spot which is another good reason for shooting Av.
  14. DSLR newb, would like pointers

    the best pointer I can give anyone new to DSLR Photography is to read some of the tutorials on the Canon website. http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/galleries/galleries/tutorials/eos101_cll.shtml The information is endless and always something new being added. The canon learning site is a great source to learn how to get the absolute most out of your camera.
  15. Im thinking of going DSLR...

    canon 100mm macro