Jump to content

mpc

Members
  • Content count

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mpc

  • Rank
    Community Member
  • Birthday 12/06/1986

Contact Methods

  • Website
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Riga, Latvia
  1. My opinion: none... As mentioned above - take a hammer and chissel and make some adjustments. What is wrong with current versions - the gap between glass and rock is too narrow. It will be hard to clean the glass as well as will make flow in the tank more restricted. Overall look is that the rockwork is too bulky. I would try to replicate a single mount setup with several ridges comming down into sandbed. The construction of the large mount should also include a cave. Don't be afraid that the volume of rock will be lower - the required surface area for the biofiltration is waaay overrated - you can get away with much less rock than commonly believed.
  2. Just because you say it doesn't make any sense - doesn't mean it doesn't make any sense... Cheerz mate!
  3. W/liter means something. It is a rule of thumb - something to hold on to when you have NO CLUE at ALL! If you want to solve a problem you need some input data...and when you have NONE you can turn to this old forgotten rule to start guestimating.
  4. Overkill?

    NOT an overkill. Completely adequate lighting.
  5. I would say - you need to do a thinking. I know a rule of thumb for T5 is - 1W per 1 Liter of water (starting point actually). 70 gallons roughly translates to 300 Liters. Now...what do you have... 156 electric LED wats (theoretical maximum) + 4x24=96W T5... Now... Let us be very generous and say - you would max out your LEDs...and that they provide 200W in T5 terms. So you have these rougly 300W of power. The only problem is - how you distribute them - and with LEDs it is rather tricky because of high intenisty areas and not-enough intensity areas. I would suggest to 1) Switch one white bulb to GIESEMANN Super-Actinic for example or something simmilar (make combo Actinic+blue and blue+white or maybe actinic+white) 2) IF you make a 10hour day cycle - utilize the actinic bulb the most....for whole 10 hours 3) actinic+blue on, after 2 hours switch on the blue channel of LEDs, after another hour switch also white LED channel, then after another 0.5 hours switch the remaining T5s on...and then in reverse fade them out (thus MAX light would be on for 3 hours). 4) Blue channel of LEDs on max (BUT you have to acclimate your tank to these changes first). 5) You might want to experiment with the placement of your corals. Zoas with long stalks means that they need more light. So with such approach you could start to experiment with durations of each light to better match the needs of your corals. At least that would be what I would try. At least one true actinic bulb is a must (imho).
  6. Kessil A360WE Noise?

    A bit outdated post but I will share my 2 cents.... I also bought 2x360 WEs....I was thinking (based on the info) that they will be dead silent...But...unfortunately they were not.... I could hear them in the other room and the sound was very annoying. But then again - they are using 60 mm fans with ball bearings. My thoughts on this is that they should have built in some sort of rpm control based on temperature reading...but somehow fans are always Full on. And that got me thinking...maybe there was a glitch and some units might have gotten a firmware where it wasn't employed whereas the others ( so called "dead silent" ones) do have this rpm controll fully functional (usual thing when you update a product - the new E-version etc). Because there is no need for the fan to work at max rpms all the time. Actually the unit becomes very silent if the rpms are decreased quite a bit. So what I did...As I am not from the US, the whole send units back to the retailer, wait for the replacement (which might turn out to be without improvement) was not what I wanted to go through... Thus I took them apart and changed the fans to one of the most silent fans available (with a little bit better air-flow than the original fan)- ones with hydrodinamic bearings. At max rpms - nothing changed...the sound got a different tone but still it was too loud...thus I used a resistor in series to bring the rpms down - and I got at a point which I was completely comfrotable with. So that is my story with Kessils.... But really I have a very sensitive ear - maybe other people wouldn't consider this noise loud. Edit... I forgot to say that the main noise comes from the wind (air - flow) produced by the fan which hits the radiator and flows through the venting holes. With the stock fan there was this additional bearing noise, whereas with hydrodynamic bearings this noise was gone and just the wind could be heared. But really - I think there should have been some rpm smart control built in - that would have made these units really silent, but as I personally don't know anyone who owns these kessils - I don't know weather those reported "dead silent" units change their rpms or not... That would be interesting to know.
  7. Hi everyone! So I have a problem. My tank is noisy - I get annoyed by the humming noises from pumps. 2 main problems for me - the return pump and the skimmer pump. Both are Aquabee UP 2000/1. I have read many good things about them and it seems they have to be quiet. So I thought. But they are not - they are quite loud - I mean unacceptably loud for my liking. Yes, they are rather new and the mileage on them is rather low - maybe I am just impatient? Maybe things will get better? So I am thinking about selling my skimmer which BTW is Bubble Magus BM150 Pro (not very happy with it). The problem now is - what to choose instead? My tank is around 73 gal Display + ~25 gal sump. So what are your thoughts? I have researched a bit into skimmers and for now I have found Vertex omega series. The 130 and 150 models. From their ratings 130 should be plenty for my system. Or maybe I should go with 150? Are they really that quiet as people say? If someone knows the sound of BM150 and Vertex Omega - what do you think? Is it like day and night noise-wise? Other option is ReefOctopus RO-PS-1000 INT - some say that the pump is better. And the third option is NYOS quantum 120 or 160. So if you have experience or knowledge - please share. What do you think about these choices. I am talking about reasonable price range and not the extremes like Bubble king and what not. Also I am concerned about the footprint of the Vertex 150 - My sump was designed to accommodate the BM150 so the space is somewhat limited in the skimmer section - Does the Vertex has some flexibility in the positioning of the pump? I chose these 3 options because I can easily get them in Europe. Regarding the return pump - many suggest to go with DC pumps - so maybe I should choose such an option? Few people that I know use JEBAO DC pumps. I am a bit skeptical... What do you think? I lean more towards Tunze Silence Electronic. Anyway - suggestions, comments and simply thought are very welcome. Please share! Thank you!
  8. Choosing a Kessil option

    Thanks for the reply! After your reply and a reply from kessil (they also suggested W verison), I did my geometry calculations once more and indeed - the W version is better for my situation. So I already ordered 2 A360WEs. Can't wait to get them. BTW - are you happy with the color? Meaning the looks of your tank. Thanks!
  9. Hi to everyone. So I need an advice from people who maybe alrady have Kessil products. I am looking to put up A360E models but I can't decide wether to go with N or W version. I did my geometric callculations and purly theoretically I chould get away with two A360NE units but maybe the W is a wiser choice? So I don't want for the light to bleed out from the tank - that is why those 60 deg cones seem more attractive but as I haven't seen it in action - I don't know. my tank is 35x24 and 21 inches tall. Mainly softies and LPS and some SPS corals (so a mixed tank with emphasis on LPS). What are your thoughts? Thank you!
  10. Sympodium coral problems

    Ehh... Today I divided the remains in 5 smaller pieces and performed a Lugol's dip - the coral is just melting - I have blue bits all over the tank. I don't know how to find right conditions for this one. Maybe the dip will help, maybe not. Some say that such things might happen when the coral is collected from the wild - for no apparent reason they just don't survive. What else can I do? ...
  11. Sympodium coral problems

    Greetings! So I wanted to ask for an opinion/advice/something... Back in the December 2011 I bought a smallish frag of sympodium coral - blue flowery like encrusting thing. At the beginning it was fine - it always opened up nicely but then somewhere along the way it stopped being opened up and at this point it is closed most of the time - I don't see any polyp extension at all (it happened gradually because I can't draw a straight line - this wasn't an abrupt event). I am thinking it is slowly fading away. What could be the cause? I have moved it around my tiny10 gal tank to find a right spot but it seems nothing helps. Every other coral is fine - at least I don't see anything suspicious. At this point I am thinking that light might be too strong because the sympodium looks kind of bleached a bit - it is not dark blue. Also I have noticed that steriopora lost its green after a while in my tank - at the beginning it was quite vivid - green frag, but now it looks more like whitish with a hint of green. So this is what makes me blame the light. The light itself is a DIY 14 Cree XPE LED fixture - 7 RB (D16)/7 NW (R3 bin) @ 350 mA on a single string, No optics and about 7.5 cm (less than 3 inches) from the water level. Sympodium is on the bottom of the tank which is ~ 35 cm (14 inches) from the lights. Any thoughts, experience ? Maybe has to do something with the flow? Thanks!
  12. Online European shop to buy ELN-60-48P

    Hi - here is a German shop that offers some of the ELN products - tho not the P version - only D. You might try to contact them and ask for other options if the P version is so crucial..
  13. Hi! I have a problem. I purchased a skunk cleaner shrimp some 3.5 weeks ago. He lived very happily, was attractive and showed off much. Then after 2.5 weeks in my tank he decided to moult. The old skin came off nicely. And then some 3 days after the moult I noticed that he has developed black spots on each side of the body (more towards the head), few black spots were seen also on his legs. I searched the web and the explanation was not clear - some say it passes and it is nothing to worry about some say it is a virus or fungus. Well after the moult he was hiding more but still came after the food. And now it is a week after the moult, black spots are still there and my shrimp is lying on the side and a bristle worm is trying to eat his black areas. He is still alive but obviously something is wrong. Please - can I save him, should I remove him? How can I help him? I have also a small peppermint and a snail - those seem to be doing fine. I also do my regular WCs - 30% per week. The most critical measurable water parameters seem fine. Thanks!
  14. "Bristle" that eats snails?

    If you had only one then it would have been better to use a worm trap.
  15. "Bristle" that eats snails?

    Maybe it is oenone fulgida?
×