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About mpc

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  • Birthday 12/06/1986

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    Riga, Latvia
  1. My opinion: none... As mentioned above - take a hammer and chissel and make some adjustments. What is wrong with current versions - the gap between glass and rock is too narrow. It will be hard to clean the glass as well as will make flow in the tank more restricted. Overall look is that the rockwork is too bulky. I would try to replicate a single mount setup with several ridges comming down into sandbed. The construction of the large mount should also include a cave. Don't be afraid that the volume of rock will be lower - the required surface area for the biofiltration is waaay overrated - you can get away with much less rock than commonly believed.
  2. Just because you say it doesn't make any sense - doesn't mean it doesn't make any sense... Cheerz mate!
  3. W/liter means something. It is a rule of thumb - something to hold on to when you have NO CLUE at ALL! If you want to solve a problem you need some input data...and when you have NONE you can turn to this old forgotten rule to start guestimating.
  4. NOT an overkill. Completely adequate lighting.
  5. I would say - you need to do a thinking. I know a rule of thumb for T5 is - 1W per 1 Liter of water (starting point actually). 70 gallons roughly translates to 300 Liters. Now...what do you have... 156 electric LED wats (theoretical maximum) + 4x24=96W T5... Now... Let us be very generous and say - you would max out your LEDs...and that they provide 200W in T5 terms. So you have these rougly 300W of power. The only problem is - how you distribute them - and with LEDs it is rather tricky because of high intenisty areas and not-enough intensity areas. I would suggest to 1) Switch one white bulb to GIESEMANN Super-Actinic for example or something simmilar (make combo Actinic+blue and blue+white or maybe actinic+white) 2) IF you make a 10hour day cycle - utilize the actinic bulb the most....for whole 10 hours 3) actinic+blue on, after 2 hours switch on the blue channel of LEDs, after another hour switch also white LED channel, then after another 0.5 hours switch the remaining T5s on...and then in reverse fade them out (thus MAX light would be on for 3 hours). 4) Blue channel of LEDs on max (BUT you have to acclimate your tank to these changes first). 5) You might want to experiment with the placement of your corals. Zoas with long stalks means that they need more light. So with such approach you could start to experiment with durations of each light to better match the needs of your corals. At least that would be what I would try. At least one true actinic bulb is a must (imho).
  6. A bit outdated post but I will share my 2 cents.... I also bought 2x360 WEs....I was thinking (based on the info) that they will be dead silent...But...unfortunately they were not.... I could hear them in the other room and the sound was very annoying. But then again - they are using 60 mm fans with ball bearings. My thoughts on this is that they should have built in some sort of rpm control based on temperature reading...but somehow fans are always Full on. And that got me thinking...maybe there was a glitch and some units might have gotten a firmware where it wasn't employed whereas the others ( so called "dead silent" ones) do have this rpm controll fully functional (usual thing when you update a product - the new E-version etc). Because there is no need for the fan to work at max rpms all the time. Actually the unit becomes very silent if the rpms are decreased quite a bit. So what I did...As I am not from the US, the whole send units back to the retailer, wait for the replacement (which might turn out to be without improvement) was not what I wanted to go through... Thus I took them apart and changed the fans to one of the most silent fans available (with a little bit better air-flow than the original fan)- ones with hydrodinamic bearings. At max rpms - nothing changed...the sound got a different tone but still it was too loud...thus I used a resistor in series to bring the rpms down - and I got at a point which I was completely comfrotable with. So that is my story with Kessils.... But really I have a very sensitive ear - maybe other people wouldn't consider this noise loud. Edit... I forgot to say that the main noise comes from the wind (air - flow) produced by the fan which hits the radiator and flows through the venting holes. With the stock fan there was this additional bearing noise, whereas with hydrodynamic bearings this noise was gone and just the wind could be heared. But really - I think there should have been some rpm smart control built in - that would have made these units really silent, but as I personally don't know anyone who owns these kessils - I don't know weather those reported "dead silent" units change their rpms or not... That would be interesting to know.