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SaltineSage

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About SaltineSage

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  • Birthday 04/08/1984

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    Madison, WI
  1. My pico has been empty for 3 months.. bacteria ok?

    Thanks I'll give it a shot. I figured 60 degrees wouldn't be much different than 50, and having the heater on 24/7 WOULD make me go broke, even a small 10w.
  2. I had to put my 5 gallon pico project on hold halfway through the cycle on account of funds. I let the tank run in my unfinished basement and the temp was ~60F, decided to unplug the heater, tank temp dropped down to about ~45-50F. It has been that way for about 3 months now. So my concerns are: Is my liverock now deadrock? Should I just scrap it and reseed the rock?
  3. bryopsis with Kent tech M questions

    I had a forest of that junk when I started my tank. I just left it in the tank and let the emerald crabs/snails take care of it.I wouldn't worry about taking anything out, I did my treatment without any losses. I had emerald crabs though, pretty hearty.
  4. Nick's Six

    I just have to comment, love the Pico man. But my favorite part about your thread is as the pictures progress, the number of plugs to the side of the Pico grow exponentially. Good stuff. Good luck with the SPS.
  5. I switched the drivers around, turns out the center driver was burnt out. So I replaced it, everything seems to be working now, varying brightnesses between the LEDs though.
  6. That's sort of hard- they are all soldered in place. Anybody have any other suggestions before I start tearing it apart?
  7. Touk thanks, that really helps... such a simple thing too, oy. BUT- I tested all of my LEDs for shorts and didn't find anything. What else could be causing my light issues? Refer to pictures above, about as detailed as I am capable of getting.
  8. Doc: all my screws have silicon washers (I think they're silicon, at least). Any suggestions on how to find a short? Touk: Awesome, thanks man! I'll have to figure out how to get my Arduino and LEDs onto the same ground. How did you do it? I'm using two seperate power sources. I'll post my sketch a little later today, it's all based off of Cptbjorn's sketch from his Pico that he posted months and months ago on his build thread in the Pico forums.
  9. Okay, so I've been working on a Pico light for a while now. Finally wired it up about a week ago and plugged 'er in... and by god I screwed something up. I have 3 drivers (Sure Electronics Drivers) wired in parallel, the first is wired to 4 Cree XRE whites, the second is wired to 4 Cree XRE Royal Blues, and finally I have the last driver wired to one single Cree XRE Royal. Everything is wired to a 15v AC/DC adapter. The whites light up at full power- awesome. The string of 4 RB's don't light up at all (there may be a tiny, tiny, tiny bit of light, but that could be a reflection from the other lights). And finally the single RB is on, but not bright, but clearly visible. I measured the volts passing through and I got this: Driver 1: 15 Driver 2: 6 Driver 3: 2 Arduino Question: I plugged the dimmer wires into my adruino unit and ran my light program, and it didn't seem to effect the brightness of any of the LEDs (that were lit, of course). Is there anything else I have to do other than plugging the dimmer control wire into the Arduino chip?
  10. Phoenix's snippit Pico

    Classy controller! It looks like you've got a bit of long wire on your temperature probes, what gauge wire are you using? I tried to do a long temp probe cable, but ended up suffering from the resistance in the wire causing me to have horribly inaccurate readings. I can't remember which gauge wire, I think it's just the standard thin stuff.
  11. DIY Pico - The beginning of an expensive journey.

    Still kick'n! I ran into a bit of an obstacle... apparently living in an apartment without any tools what so ever makes it hard to make a fish tank. Go figure! Anyway, along the way I had to change it up some, but I'm still satisfied with what I've got so far. Still a lot left to do, here's the update: Going to hang the light from some pipe, it will make it easier for maintenance, I can just pivot the pipe or slide the pipe backwards to get the light out of the way. This also means if I ever want to change up my tank the light fixture is an easy move. And I actually decided to go with a corner for my plumbing, I am thinking I want to do a little mangrove forest (3-6 mangroves right next to the black box, filling the back area)... mostly because I f'n hate Chaeto. My drivers only manage up to 4 LEDs, so I am going to keep that center RB on it's own driver and I might only bring that one on for peak sunlight hours, and then use it for a moon light if I can get my arduino to run it as low as I need it to go. Next steps: Tightining all of the pipes on the stand and epoxying a few of them so they don't move in the T junction (3rd pic) Tapping 4 8-32 holes in the heatsink that will secure the light directly to the pipe frame, then building the black acrylic box for the LCD screen and heatsink. Building the "brain box" to house the arduino/power plugs that will attach to the vertical arm. Any feedback on what I've done or thoughts on what I'm about to do?
  12. They are pointed at the center of the tank upwards- and the salt creep is also occurring on the same side as the power heads (so, the side of the tank the flow is pointed away from)
  13. I have removed the tab between 1 and 2. Filter media is fresh as well. I've been keeping the water level the same since the get-go, I'll remove a gallon and that should indeed solve the problem.
  14. My BC29 has been up and running since January 3 2010. Just within the past 2 weeks (no recent mods) I have been getting some nasty salt creep which leaks down the left and right side of my tank. I tried to silicone the area between the display and the plastic rim, but it didn't work out so well because the liquid is being held between the glass and the rim. Any suggestions on how to get this to stop? It looks really aweful and I have to wipe the side of the tank at least three times a day.
  15. My (slow) 2.5g Garfield Pico Build

    This. Tank. Is. Win.
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