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hochunk

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  1. Ammonia was a bit elevated but not horrific. I've been dosing prime and bought an airstone to oxygenate the water, clownfish is looking less sluggish and is showing interest in food again. When should I do another water change? Should I vacuum the sand next time or leave it be? When will it be safe to mess with?
  2. I have a clown in a 10 gallon nanocube all by himself that I will admit I have been more than a bit lax on maintenance lately, it probably has been months since the last water change. I did a massive water change recently because I've been so bad about it, and disturbed the upper 1/8" of the sandbed to try and get rid of the accumulated detritus. Up to that point, the clown was in good health, eating and everything. I was only feeding 3-4 times a week so I rationalized the lax maintenance due to the low fish load and light feeding schedule. However he is breathing rapidly now and has no interest in food so I'm worried that the tank may be going through a mini-cycle, I have not had the chance to test for ammonia or nitrites/nitrates yet. Is there anything I can do to help alleviate the problem? I'm concerned another water change so soon will only cause further problems. It's been roughly a week since the water change and I've only noticed his behavior change in the last 2-3 days. Could use some good advice. I have another tank that I could put him in if I absolutely had to, but there are already 2 clowns in there and I'm concerned they would fight.
  3. I guess early 20th century would have been a more practical choice. You had heaters, possibly flourescent lights (I think these were around as early as the 20s but could be wrong...although I'm sure the spectrum would have been wrong) and also pumps. I think there is probably a lot you could do with 3 to 4 standard wattage tubes, provided they had the right spectrum. I think the biggest mistakes with marine aquariums early on came from not properly understanding the nitrogen cycle. Just remembered the name of the guy that had natural style aquariums: Lee Chin Eng. I think FAMA (are they still around??) did a write-up on him, ages ago.
  4. I wish I could remember this guy's name, but in the 50s or 60s there was a man in Hawaii (I think) that was keeping a saltwater (possibly with soft corals, can't remember) tank with only natural sunlight, daily water changes, and air pumps for circulation. So you could probably do quite a bit, provided you had an air pump for circulation, and could provide proper lighting. The lighting would be the hardest part to work around, you'd have to figure out a way to use natural sunlight. I'm fairly certain the lighting type available at the turn of the century would not have been suitable spectrum-wise for a reef, I think you would have been limited to incandescent or arc lighting.
  5. So let's say for some reason (maybe your time machine broke down) you are limited to either late 19th century or early 20th century technology but you have modern reef keeping knowledge and husbandry practices, what sort of critters do you think you could reasonably keep? My guess is that lighting, water flow, and heating/cooling would be your main challenges. I do know that there have been aquarists that have successfully kept tanks with very limited tech, though, so it may not be impossible if you were in the right area (tropics, or keeping a cold water/temperate tank).
  6. Confused by the LED lighting market...help

    I was thinking of either 2 Reefbreeders Superlux lights or 2 of the Chinese clones (very similar to what the original Reefbreeders budget fixture used to be). That would put me in a price range of $200-$400. I was also looking at a DIY kit from RapidLED for 2 70W Lumia arrays, but a dimmable kit is around $360. I don't think the kit comes with any sort of lighting controller, either.
  7. What is currently the best option in the budget LED category (say around $200 for a 100w light)? I ask because Reefbreeders seemed like the way to go if you didn't want to DIY. And I've priced out some DIY options and they are approaching $300-$350, so no real savings and more aggravation. Although if that results in a superior light then that is something to consider. However lately Reefbreeders seems to be chasing the higher end of the market with $300, $400, and $600-$800 lighting options and their surviving budget option is around $200 and appears to be very similar to the Ocean Revive light. Add to that the seemingly endless selection of budget Chinese lights on Amazon and Ebay (Marsaqua, GalaxyHydro, DsunY, etc) in the $100-$250 range and things get very confusing very quickly. Are you better off avoiding completely the Chinese knock off lights? Is there anyone that owns these that is happy with them? The reason I'm asking is I am thinking about setting my 55 gallon tank back up and need enough lighting to cover a 4 ft tank, and it would be nice to have a system I could migrate to a later tank and not end up selling. It seems to me that multiple smaller fixtures might be the way to go rather than trying to buy a single 3 or 4 foot fixture.
  8. Reef Breeders LED light Any good?

    Yeah it is a thing in Greece. So is the Acropolis. I was kidding. Seemed like an odd typo to make, unless you were "trollin" but I suppose if you are on a mobile device it probably autocorrected, mine does that all the time. Anyway, if Reefbreeders are not that great then maybe I don't want to switch to them for my 20. Or maybe they have switched things up since they discontinued their old budget models, I think those used Bridgelux LEDs and all the new ones use Cree.
  9. Reef Breeders LED light Any good?

    But what if I want to keep a Parthenon?
  10. 125 gallon all-in-one?

    Does Reefbreeders still sell the value fixtures or did they discontinue those? I was thinking 3 of the value fixtures should be enough for a 125, if I decide to go ahead with this. Here is the planned equipment setup: 1 125 gallon acrylic tank 1 protein skimmer (Reef Octopus or maybe Tunze?) 1 Vortech mp40 placed opposite from the sump return, may go Jebao to save $$ GFO reactor internal to the sump Large section of sump dedicated to growing chaeto 3 reefbreeders LEDS 2-5 gallon jug for topoff water with Tunze osmolator to top off tank Apex reefkeeper jr. 2 100 watt heaters located in sump 2 large return pumps located in sump Sound good? Would you make any changes?
  11. 125 gallon all-in-one?

    I just had a look at the Innovative Marine 120...that is too low for my taste. Looking for a 20" high tank, preferably. 3 inches of width in the back should be enough for a decent sized skimmer. Maybe I could go to 4" if I had to, but on an 18" wide tank that doesn't leave much room. Maybe I could have a wider sump at one end and narrow it as I go across the rest of the tank? I could have a 1 foot by 4" section then narrow it down to 2" wide for the rest of the back.
  12. 125 gallon all-in-one?

    Yes, I think along the back might be the best, although I'm not sure (I might want to view the tank while cooking). The other thing I'm thinking about, is how best to preserve the tank in case I move and want to use a sump at a later date (so no permanent gluing in of the sump panel with acrylic, unless there is no other way).
  13. 125 gallon all-in-one?

    Let's say you were going to do a large size (100 gallon or larger) all-in-one tank. Would you run the sump along the back, in the corner or on the side? Tank would likely be acrylic, it would be getting installed in a kitchen pass-through so there is no real room for a sump, unless I butcher my cabinets (not a fan of that option, plus no real room). Lighting options are also appreciated, there is room to hang a light but obviously with that kind of tank, pendant or a light that rests on the top is the only way. I am planning on hiding cabling, ballasts, etc in an existing cabinet or maybe installing a new one. I will likely also need to add 2 or 3 4x4 support legs to the pass through just to be safe (currently it sits on a 4" wide wall). Any other suggestions as to additional support equipment? I'm ok with losing a portion of the tank volume to a sump, but obviously nothing crazy.
  14. Which LED to choose?

    I just recently bought an Ai Prime and damn am I ever happy with it. I have it over my 12 gallon nanocube and it looks awesome. I don't really use the storm gimick stuff but the fact that I can tweak the spectrum exactly how I want is very nice. Setup is dead simple too. The nice thing about a prime, is if you decide to upgrade to a larger tank, say something like a 30 gallon long or 40 breeder, 2 primes might be just enough to handle most of the lighting needs, depending on how you mount them. I'm looking at getting rid of the LEDs on my 20 high and upgrading to something nicer, just not sure I can afford Ai on that tank (since I'd want to get something I could migrate easily to a larger tank down the road, say a 100-125). But the difference in spectrum between the Prime and the lights on my other tank is night and day. My 20 High looks like ass compared to the nanocube.
  15. I have a toadstool leather coral which has gotten to be really big and is in danger of taking over my tank. What is the best way to frag these? Do you cut them in half or quarters from the top down? Like you were cutting a pizza? Or do you cut the top off so you have the top and a stump?
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