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About Sailfish

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    Community Member
  • Birthday 05/05/1991

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    Norway, Langesund
  • Interests
    Reefing, freediving and chicks =P

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  1. Aha... Just out of curiosity, are there any changes you would do to the Lumia 5.2, to make it more powerful (PUR) or better colorwise?
  2. Wow, I did not expect that! ^^ I will try that, right away I totally agree that more light is not always better (maybe almost never better, in the case with high power LEDs). I just find it odd that LEDGroupbuy decided to run channel 2 and channel 3 at 1500mA, while only 700mA for channel 1 and channel 5, if the latter channels are the most important for PUR. Is it because channel 1 and channel 5 have the greater potential of burning corals, and thereby by adding more of the LEDs that those strings contain (since those diodes probably are rated for maximum 700mA) the chance for more of their customers burning corals would be greater?
  3. Hmm, just read through Evil's stickied "LED Colors And What They Are Used For" again, and thinking that adding 1 or 2 lime LEDs on each side of the lumia may at least remove the purple tint? Maybe adding them on my 6th. and unused Storm controller channel
  4. Hey! I have had my Lumia 5.2 running over my 24G cube for a few months now. Maybe I started out a bit too conservative and ramping up a bit slow, because one of my blue acro frags have browned out completely. Still has polyp extension, so I think it is otherwise healthy. Over the years I have come to deviate more and more away from that "super blue" look, towards something white, even slightly yellow white (think natural morning/evening sunlight on a natural reef). This is a beautiful example: What I am afraid of is that by randomly playing with the light intensities, to acheive my desired "look", I may remove important PAR (and even more importantly PUR). As far as I understand it, this is the spectral profile of the Lumia 5.2 with all channels set to the same intensity: I'm afraid that by lowering mainly channel 1 and 5, and a little of channel 2, I may remove a lot of my SPS's food source Yesterday I ordered the Seneye Reef, to measure PAR and estimate PUR. I hope that will help What do/would you do?
  5. Incredible color morph! As a reefer going on his 11th. year, the nano full of exceptional corals hasn't come to fruition yet
  6. Thanks! Tuned down the flow in the tank from what I calculated to be about 125X turnover, to a more sensible 35X. I turned up the flow in the tank significantly while home for Christmas break this year, to try and inhibit algae growing in the tank. That was successful, but the sand was blown all over the place Did two large water changes, right before going back to Poland for maybe the last time, so I hope that 35X turnover will be sufficient to avoid algae and rather promote polyp extension
  7. Yep, sounds like a pistol shrimp Harmless, unless it gets too big (mostly only Tiger pistol shrimps). As long as you are not losing livestock, I wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure that your aquascape is securely placed on the bottom glass of your tank, so the pistol shrimp won't dig under your rocks and have them tumble down on top of corals or other live stock
  8. It is initially logic thinking that 7 X 1G water changes (1G/day) should produce the same nutrient export from our tanks, as 1 X 7G water changes (7G/week). As well as keeping the water chemistry more stable, and we all know that parameter stability => greater coral growth and -health Logically it makes perfect sense, unfortunately nature have a way of throwing the odd curveball in the otherwise so logical systems. It is important to step away from what we think is going on, and actually test it in an objective manner. This is pretty much the definition of "the scientific method". Chemistry shows us that fewer, but larger, water changes export much more unwanted nutrients over time, then more frequent, smaller water changes. This is because we are dealing with dilution. What helped me understand this concept was an example: When you perform 7 water changes of 1G/time, you are effectively causing a logarithmic decrease (curve) of the unwanted nutrients (most commonly nitrates and phosphates), in comparison with the linear deacrease (straight line) from a single 7G water change. Of course, in a model with a longer time axis those single weekly 7G water changes will also start to portray a logarithmic decrease in the unwanted nutrients. A logarithmic function decreases rapidly at first, while flattening out the longer time that pass by. By only performing partial water changes, the water parameters in your tank will never reach a point where they exactly match those of your freshly mixed saltwater. Radioisotopes (from e.g. nuclear bombs, or -power plants) have constant half-lives, because of their logarithmic decay. Maybe all my blabber will confuse more people then enlighten them, so here is an illustration that shows what I tried to explain in words, graphically The source of this graph is this great article from Advanced Aquarist: "Water Changes in Reef Aquaria", by Randy Holmes-Farley ( Loooong story short, the only way to completely eliminate an acute threat, caused by water chemistry, is a solid 100% water change! 100% WC = 100%->0% (linear) decrease of whatever excess nutrient or other pollutant you want to remove. The exact same principle proves true for those who wish to replenish consumed minerals with water changes alone (no kalkwasser, two-part, or calcium reactor) Regarding the algae on the zoas, it is kinda difficult to see on the photo you posted. If it is just normal green hair algae, I would just nip of what you can get to with your fingers If it is some slimy cyano-ish stuff, you can just brush the zoas with an old toothbrush. Just make sure to irritate the zoas a bit, so they close up, before you go all spring cleaner on their bases haha
  9. That is about the flow that I'm running on my 17G reef (without the night mode) making it 36-41X turnover, and the softies handle it In your slightly bigger reef it should be even less of a problem. You could turn your Vortech MP10 down to 40%, and see if that may help the corals settle down. Referring to these PAR-measurements of the Radion Pros,, 10% intensity should be a fine place to start the light acclimation No harm in keeping the aquarium lights off for 2-3 days, just to see if the soft corals will extend their polyps to the ambient room lighting or not. The algae bloom may indicate some die-off being introduced to your system with the newly introduced corals. Just remember this: Good idea is to throw a bag of activated carbon in your sump for 2-3 days, after the 100% WC, to remove any toxins or pollutants in the tank water Good luck, and I'm looking forward to getting some updates! Don't mention it Help is what this great forum is for, right?
  10. Ammonia and nitrites are good. Nitrates are high, but shouldn't cause such a sudden change. Salinity and temp. seems fine too, unless these values are actually rapidly elevated levels from the system's normal. How about your lights and flow? Both the corals in question are sensitive to too much light (especially LEDs) and too much water flow. Intensity of light? Photoperiod? Height suspended above the sandbed, as well as from the surface? What pumps, and how much are each outputting? A new FTS, where we can see how the powerheads and returns are positioned, would also be of great help to further assist you
  11. Thanks, hype More pics when I get back to Poland from my winter break, home in Norway Here is my Norway tank, that is just doing it's thing without any supervision
  12. Sounds like you got it working good To solder LEDs mounted on a heatsink, a good powerful soldering iron is a must. Normal 40W soldering irons generally made shitty joints, in my experience. After trying 3 different soldering irons (from 40W-100W), I bought a cheap $100 soldering station. Wow, night and day difference!
  13. Awesome with all the pictures! Good luck!
  14. Listen to clown I have also never run a skimmer, kalkwasser, or dosing pumps on a nano reef before, and I have been fine. Frequent LARGE water changes is the name of the game, then! I have usually been running a HOB Aquaclear filter, for similar reasons as clown. I was also planning to add a second HOB Aquaclear filter to my previous system, to run a refugium. The refugium would be primarily to provide a constant supply of copepods and plankton to the tank, not to remove nitrates and phosphates.