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jamierk

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About jamierk

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  1. Full Spectrum LED tank pictures

    Hey guys Trying to decide on my LED setup for a RSM 130D (going in the place where the existing lights are). I have 2 heat sinks which i got from another reefer, predrilled for 20mm stars in a 3 rows of 4 leds (heat sinks are 5" long by 4" wide). I've seen other LED builds on RSMs which look pretty good, but with the heatsink so close to the water (probably only 3" off the surface) i'm trying to minimise spotlighting and maximise coverage (LEDs are only in the central quarter of the tank, and spread is difficult to reach high up the back. I have two designs planned: First one is a little cheaper to setup obviously, but i am not sure on the spotlighting effects. The second option costs a bit more, but i'm concerned about this being too many LEDs running on the heatsinks. Any thoughts? If someone has some of the 3-ups wired up, could they point towards some photos of them over a tank? Thanks Jamie
  2. LED retro for RSM130 using ledgroupbuy

    Thanks guys. That DIY LED fixture rocks, btw! I'm trying to achieve something similar with mine, but as i said, the big limiters for me are the height above the water i can achieve (hence no optics) and a little bit the fact that the leds can only be placed up to about 2" from the centreline of the tank (ie inside the existing acrylic splashguard). Perhaps i may even need to angle the fixture a little to ensure good illumination up the rockwork at the back? Definitely going to go with a fan for the setup, and i like the idea of a diffusion filter provided i don't lose too much light at the mid level of the tank where i would like to grow sps. My reservation in clustering the LEDS is only a bit of a concern about the appearance of two large spotlights in the tank, rather than a more even lighting, just given that the lights are so close to the surface. Might need to play with it to get it right :-)
  3. I'm about to go ahead with an order to retrofit a full led setup in a rsm 130d hood. The main issue in the retrofit for me is the minimal distance between the water and where the LEDs will sit (my guess is 3" max). I have athe standard sized heat sink to fit in the old lighting place and am now looking at how to place the LEDs on the 20" x 4.5" area. Most people I have seen do this go down the usual 12 rb 12 cws evenly spaced in 2 rows but I was hoping to try a more clustered approach to remove the disco effect when the LEDs are so close to the water. I was thinking 8 of the 3 up (2xrbs 1xnws) giving 16 rbs and 8nws in small clusters. Ithese could either be in a single row or 2 staggered rows (not sure which will give less spotlighting). To fill in the spectrum I was thinking 5 of the ocw 3 ups spaced between the other 3 ups and lastly 4-6 true violets. Just a few questions I was hoping someone might help me with: 1. Has anyone tried the 3 ups when the unit has to be so close to the water? Is this likely to give me too much of a spot lighting effect (ie should I be using separate LEDs more evenly spaced in the sink) 2. Am I likely to get enough par from the unit to penetrate to the rock (about 10-12" below the surface) for sps or should I perhaps be including some LEDs in the centr of the unit with optics? 3. 60 or 120 deg optics for the true violets? I guess it's not as critical to spread the uv light to cover the edges as brightly, perhaps I should try to ensure the light penetrates to the substrate? Any pics from clustered led builds in enclosed hoods would be much appreciated Thanks Jamie
  4. Full Spectrum LED tank pictures

    Sorry, moved to a new thread :-)
  5. Chiller and Sump Plumbing

    Hello everyone I'm researching a new SPS setup i'm making, a 24"x16"x20" (LxHxW) rimless setup, and i'm trying to work out how to best include my Resun Cl280 chiller. I still have to design the sump for this setup, but my intention was to keep the flow rate through it as minimal as possible, as i had problems in my old setup with microbubles from a fast flow rate. With this in mind, the flow rate for the chiller is rated from 500-1000 lph, which leaves me with a few options: A. Put the chiller inline with the return and accept the 1000 lph through the sump B. Put the chiller inline with the return but bleed off a certain ammount of the flow (after chilling) back to the return section of the sump (might reduce the efficiency of the chilling C. Put the chiller in parallel with the return (ie split the return line and valve off some flow to the chiller) and return the chilled water back to the return in the sump Does anyone have any experience to share on this? I'm intending on running this setup without refugium/dsb as alot of tanks do these days. This tank is operating under the assumption that keeping a clean and simple sump, and using VSV, efficient skimming (BM NAC7) and removing detritus is a better way of maintaining water quality. Also, if anyone could point me towards some sump designs/pictures appropriate for a footprint of 24"x20", that would also be much appreciated. Thanks guys Jamie
  6. Daves Shallow SPS 35g

    Thanks Dave, that eel is awesome!
  7. Daves Shallow SPS 35g

    Fantastic tank, Dave! Any chance you could put up a detailed pic of your sump and cabinet setup? I'm trying to plan out a similar sized tank, and would like to see how you have it working (obviously very well!).
  8. Jamie's 10g Mixed Nano

    Thanks guys. I'm using NSW which is usually good on Mg, can be a little low on Ca and kH. Yeah they provide great amusement and activity. I think they are so settled as they have been there since juvis, now about 8 months from memory. Cheers Jamie
  9. Jamie's 10g Mixed Nano

    Thanks the replies. I know its fairly heavily stocked, they have some heirarchy but there are alot of nooks and places for them to claim so there are several 'territories' occupied by different clowns. They were all less than 1" long when they went in there, and there are now two dominant clowns abour 2" in length down to some smaller ones. All of them come up to eat twice a day (or whenever i go near the tank) and there is no aggressive bullying or fish injuries. On my large tank I had a two part dosing setup with peri pumps and a DIY PLC controller. As this tank was originally only a holding tank I wasn't that obsessive about maintaining Ca and Alk, although the regular WCs keeps Calcium around 400ppm and kH around 7deg. Mg sits around 1250 the majority of the time without any addition. Given that I wasn't dosing I was suprised at how much coral growth and coraline growth I was getting (that kor nano is covered after a few months), hence why i was happy to keep things simple at the moment. Its not meant to be a full on SPS reef, more an experiment to see how it goes. Cheers Jamie
  10. Jamie's 10g Mixed Nano

    Hey everyone Just thought i'd put up some pics of my simple all in one nano tank in Sydney, Australia. It was originally a nice side project for my 4'x2'x18" mixed reef which was shut down recently to save for a better future project. This tank has been through a few iterations, most notable recently when i had some sps problems in my main tank, resulting in me having to house all my acro frags in this tank for a few months. I simply placed a sheet of egg crate across the whole tank about midway up and placed all the frags there, hoping that they would survive until i corrected the problem in the main tank. I was not very meticulous about water conditions in the tank, temperature was only regulated by a small fan and heater, with no real chemical additions or dosing, and manual top up every week or so with DI water. To my surprise i had some very good growth and coloration in these frags, with just a 15L water change every week. Filtration is by some very well seeded liverock (from a several year old tank) and a little refugium in the back with some macro. Since shutting my main tank down, I decided to give this tank a bit more attention. I've rescaped it, placed all my small acro colonies on the top and some nice zoas around the base. It also houses my 7 occi clowns which i've grown from juvis (hatched in a friends tank). All eating well and are very friendly. I love a bit of DIY so perhaps some additions might be in the pipeline. I'd like to run an ATO, i've already got my own PLC based doser from the main tank which i might add. I'd also perhaps like to add surface skimming, a new light and as summer is arriving here, a temperature controller for the fan. But at the moment, it seems that polyps extension, colour and growth is quite good. Enough preamble, here are a few not so professional photos: Comments and advice are always welcome, and i've love to hear a few opinions on improvements i could make. Thanks Jamie
  11. Clam under LED thread

    Impressive PAR numbers, i'm keen to see how this progresses. Is this still the 12 CREEs from the LED build? Nice tank btw!
  12. In-Tank Refugium Design

    G'day I've decided on a rimless 16" cube from starfire, which is being made. But i would like to include a false wall style of refugium and area for equipment. I'd like to be able to house a tunze nano skimmer, small heater, section for dsb/macro and return using locline. I was also thinking of making it from acrylic and having it bent at 45deg either side so that it meets the corner of the tank, rather than the back for aesthetic reasons (i beleive the solana is similar?). Can anyone point me towards some good designs for this purpose? Some pics of the solana setup would be good, particularly if i can get a rough idea of dimensions. Thanks very much Jamie
  13. New Nano Addict

    G'day Everyone Just to introduce myself, i'm a mechatronic engineer living in Sydney, Australia. I've had a 4'x2'x18" mixed reef for about 16 months, which is performing quite well. As a side project (/obsession), my wife and I have decided to try two small nano tanks. I find the idea of having a small, controllable water volume appealing in comparison to my 4ft. Hopefully I can attempt to emulate the awesome nanos on this forum. As I set this up (doing it very slowly and carefully to ensure i get it right the first time, i've made too many mistakes in the past from rushing things), i'm going to have a few questions. My first is a question of tank selection/appearance. I'm getting a small glass cube made, approx 16"x16"x14"(high), with the purpose of keeping mainly sps/clams with some zoas around the bottom of the tank. I've got a few options for the glass: 16x16x14 out of 10mm rimless normal glass $150 16x16x14 10mm rimless starfire $$250 16x16x14 out of 6mm with eurobrace $100 16x16x14 out of 6mm with starfire $150 Any opinions on the best way to go? I was thinking of doing the 6mm starfire eurobraced option (save a little $$). I was also thinking of having a false wall put in the back, to have a dsb/refugium and place to keep a heater. Plan at the moment is to run skimmerless, with a diy autotopup and waterchanger. To keep nutrients under control, i'm intending on having a daily water change of 1-5% water volume. Since its a small tank, this should be relatively easy to automate and maintain. Part of this should be to use artificial salt with RO so that i can have stability in Ca/Kh and salinity which i don't think i can get from NSW which i use on my big reef. I'm hoping for some input into what brands of salt have consistently good levels of Ca/Kh/Mg? Lighting wise i'm thinking of going with 150W mH, which i'm going to retrofit on a stand, with a decent fan across the water surface. Also thinking of going with an iceprobe cooling module. Does anyone have experience with these? Full of questions as per usual, but i'm determined to get this right from the start. Thanks Jamie
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