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About DarkDevil

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  • Birthday 05/07/1979

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  • Location
    Vacaville, CA
  • Interests
    too many, but not enough money
  1. the 18H you got is actually a 15H, check the dimension, I have the same thing, when I got it, the sticker said 18H, but when I do the calculation, it turns out to be a 15H... I have the same lighting as you are planning, which is 250W 14k + 2 x 36 actinic, heat really isn't much of an issue, I only need fans, but I got 2 big ones, which is 117CFM each, my MH is 8-9" above the water line... you don't really need calcium reactor to keep up the calcium in this small tank, dripping kalk only can already get you up to par, if you need more, just do 2-part ionic once a while... good luck
  2. for heat issue, I kind of take care of it by using 2 117cfm fans, they are kind of loud, but do the job right, my 250 is SE, want to get DE, but will cost more, I have crocea on sandbed, 2 tables, and couple acros, I can't tell you if I have enough PAR, but if you really concern about it, get a 6500k bulb, that way it will take care of the par issues
  3. you said you got a 18H, I believe that's a 15H instead, coz I got the same tank, when I bought it, it said 18H on the sticker, but when I do some measurement, it turns out to be 15 instead, btw I have 250W 14k on my 15H and I am trying to grow everything...
  4. from what I have read, a healthy clam can defend itself from most critters, not counting the predatory ones, but if it's starting to die, your pods, worms, hermit carbs and of course shimps, can clean out a clam in 1 night, which is in your case. you said it have good mantle extension, but that doesn't prove the clam is healthy, coz a dead clam can have it's mantle extend also, it's some sort of reflex muscle of a clam. sorry about your lost, sometimes buying the livestocks are kind of gamble, I believe no one in this hobby can say they have 100% living livestocks, we all learned it the hard way... good luck
  5. I just went to aquarium concept last Sat, their equipments and fish have pretty good selections, but their corals sucks, sucks in terms of no good selection and all of them are simple common ones, the color isn't any good either, store is clean but too "commerical", I like tropical paradise better, altho they look like warehouse, their selections are very good, a lot of semi-rare color and species, just for the frogspwan they have at least 3-4 colors... oh BTW, my frogspawn once touched my xenia, seems like my frogspawn got shocked more then my xenia does, I don't know...
  6. well, what I mean is, the 28/32W PC lights are 12" or 14" w/ reflector, and 36W PC lights are 16" or 18" w/reflector, and you can get those anywhere you want, which you can find similar setup at hellolights.com, they sell some retrofit kits or DIY kits, just pick any which suit your application
  7. from what I have read, they are both hot, you need good vents and fan either case, if you are on a tight budget, go to e-bay and get a cheap MH ballast and run some probe start bulb, there are a lot of good choices out there, a 250W M58 ballast usually cost around $30 on e-bay and a bulb cost around $70, but just to let you know, there are a lot of ppl here on this forum who run just PCs have good results with SPS, clams and softies already, so a 150W will be good also, for UV protection, most ppl don't put a "shield" under the SE MH bulb, as those are kind of protected already, but for DE bulb(HQI), you need some sort of UV guard, glass is heavy and breakable, ppl will use some plexiglass instead, I know some of them have UV protections also, good luck deciding your choice.
  8. the CSL 32W smart light is 14" and the 36W is 16", check out hellolights.com
  9. is the 20W version same size as the 10W ones? you better make sure, coz if the 20W is doubling the size, basically it's a 2 10W bulb and the 20W may not fit on your tank, just a thought
  10. I just fixed my problem of having PH at 7.8-7.9 the whole time, mine is pretty simple, as I don't usually open any windows in my apt, I only turn on the fan, so my CO2 lvl in my apt is pretty high, and of course low O2 lvl, so I open up the windows to let the air in, and my PH just rise back to 8-8.1, then I start dripping kalk, which now brings the tank to 8.2-8.3, good luck p.s. my cal is at 440-460 and my alk is at 13-15dKH
  11. Hi, other then the snail guard, there are couple other questions/problems that I can think of... first, I always thought that float-switch is operate by DC voltage, I may be wrong, but if you just connected it through the AC line, there maybe a lot of other problems, that is why ppl always have some kind of relays in between the AC and DC conversion, using the DC float switch to act as a switch through the relays and open the relay for the AC line. second, if you connect the float switch which is AC current into the water, you may have a high chance that you will shock everything inside the tank, I mean if the float switch break down or some other stupid problem happens, you will have the risk that AC current will leak into the tank, which is kind of bad... I don't know, but I would be more safe by building a simple circuit using a AC relay other then just spice through the AC line, you can find the circuit diagram from reef central by doing a search of float switch, just my $.02
  12. Actually you don't know if you need a skimmer until problem come out IMO, I have read so many post that ppl don't even know what a skimmer is for years and their tank is doing even better then someone who does, I am saying for a nano of course, I don't know, but maybe it's something for your peace of mind, I have mine running right now because I keep adding new corals into the tank and I have very bad algae problem, after my tank settle, and the hair algae is gone, I think I will slow use it less and eventually remove it, coz it really taken up so many spaces and it's so noisy, of course that's what my own opinion.
  13. I have read a lot of bad things about seaclone, but I bought one anyways for my 10G coz of the price ($30), I ran into the little bubble problem also, but I fixed it by putting a "DEfractor" at the bottom of the return, same idea as a baffle area of a sump, so the bubbles will stay there and the water flow won't be that stong running into the tank, oh and I pull out the air flow thing, I am just using the tube only, it's a great skimmer after all other then the noise, I run it at night only so I don't care abou the noise at all, it skimmed like 1/4 of the collection cup just for 1 night, so if you still have it, maybe you can try to make it work, if not, I believe most of the other skimmer "may" have the problem with little bubbles also, as first it needs to break in, and second, some additives that you add may have some "slime" effects and that will cause A LOT of bubbles to form also, anyways, good luck
  14. ok, calcium test is in, I am using the salifert test and I got 470ppm cal with 13dkh of alk, so...... what do you guys think? what else can you think of? pull it out and make a skinny dip?
  15. my 32W pc already killed my 2 blue LED, each rated at 6000mcd(kind of high for blue), so I am pretty sure u won't even notice anything there with the 96W