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About Chupacabras

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    Well, that's pretty naughty

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  1. Sand ?

  2. bubble wall

    In a freshwater tank they're ok to have but in a salt water tank, their main contribution is salt creep all over your tank and walls. You don't need one.
  3. BTA is MIA

    Was it still expanding and were the tentacles nice and full just prior to it retreating into the rocks? No 'nems in nano's is bunk; a 24 is big enough for a BTA. As you've learned, temperature or slight changes in flow pattern can get a BTA to retreat into the rocks until it gets used to the new environment. Watch out for it retreating down into the rocks. If it doesn't do that and it doesn't stay in the exact same spot (in the rockwork) for a week, you shouldn't have to take any extreme steps for a couple weeks at least.
  4. To Many Water Changes?

    More then 50% changed at one time, once per week, is too much long term. If you've had a death spike or whatever, 50% for a couple weeks is ok.
  5. Clownfish died of Brooklynella

    One thead at a time is plenty.
  6. Clownfish died of Brooklynella

    Let the tank go fallow for two months. I know, it sucks, but brook is a monster of a disease to get in your tank and it can effect all fish, not just clowns. Cleaner wrasses feed exclusively on parasites and usually die off in home tanks so I would advise against one. Edit: It would be advisable to find the dead clown. By fallow I mean no more fish, not that you can't keep inverts of different types.
  7. Compatability Chart

    Because clowns are damsels and you generally shouldn't put two of the same group in the same tank (with a few exceptions). So basically, both are mean, in the right circumstances though there can be exceptions within the group.
  8. Oldest Tank?

    Apart from using PC's, I believe all of those were frowned upon five years ago.
  9. where to find the fish list

    No such thing, sorry. You can get condensed information about many species but if you want those levels of information, you'll have to start buying books.
  10. Stocking Question

    Generally, gobies fight with others of the same type in aquaria. When there's another fish in the tank that has the same general body shape, there's usually trouble. This is why you can keep a hi fin banded goby with a yellow clown goby but you can't keep a hi fin banded goby with a yellow watchman goby (usually). The same applies to the YWG and the panda goby, they have the same basic shape so will probably end up fighting over turf because they both think its another of its species (or body shape dictates that the other fish would be a competitor, tough to know for sure) trying to muscle in on its turf.
  11. Stocking Question

    Yes, though I'd avoid getting the flaming goby as they're not known for being the most interesting of fish. I wouldn't think that keeping a YCG and panda would be the best option due to their similar body shapes.
  12. downgrade Pronunciation: 'daun-"grAd Function: noun 1 : a downward grade (as of a road) 2 : a descent toward an inferior state <a career on the downgrade> downsize Pronunciation: 'daun-"sIz Function: verb transitive verb 1 : to reduce in size; especially : to design or produce in smaller size 2 : to fire (employees) for the purpose of downsizing a business intransitive verb : to undergo a reduction in size When you state that you're downgrading, you're saying that nano's are inferior to larger systems which most people on this site do not believe.
  13. cyano - does it affect corals?

    Well, yes and no. If the actual cyano gets on a coral, it can kill it but the cyano itself is a symptom of a problem, not necessarily the problem itself (though it can be troublesome). IME, cyano needs two things to thrive; low flow and high nutrients (the cyano ladder, if you will). In low flow areas, cyano gains a foothold and begins locking up the nutrients in the water. As the bacterial colony gets larger, it reproduces at an exponentially increasing rate, taking in greater amounts of nutrients until they're all gone. The problem comes when the cyano starts dying off or smothering rock and coral; this generates an increasing nutrient surplus in the tank which helps the cyano to continue its growth. It can develop in higher flow areas but most commonly it's in the lowest flow spot your tank has. Cyano can be though of as a nutrient dump; you can export the slimy stuff much as you would macro algae or xenia. That's not to say it should be used as such but what generally happens is the nutrients get used up and, if you're fastidious, it will clear up your post-cycle nutrient overload and eventually die out if you keep feedings etc. to a minimum. Again, IME. If you're careful and willing to take the risk with a few frags, you may be ok but if you have cyano you've got a lot of other crud floating around in your water... if you get frags, I'd hold off on the fish for a while, just to get things stable.
  14. goby/shrimp pair

    Lots of gobies share a relationship with many different pistol shrimp, not just the yellow. The gobies. The shrimp. These aren't all the known species, but those articles are good primers.
  15. Life after Ich

    Not everything in a tank can be tested for and something that may cause one creature problems may not hurt another. Because everything tested good is a pretty common mistake people make as they come to take the readings they get for the big six (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alkalinity, calcium and phosphate) as gospel when in fact any number of things could be causing the problems.