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About ajmckay

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    Wrasses McGee
  • Birthday November 9

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    Sterling Heights, Michigan

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  1. Flame hawkfish reef safe??

    I think it depends on the size of the tank and the other inhabitants. IMO it's more aggressive than many reef fish so you would be limited as to what you could add to your tank. No shrimp or crabs. No small fish or timid fish. If you're doing a reef tank with limited inverts and only semi-aggressive to aggressive fish (in an appropriate size tank) then you'll likely be fine. If you're wanting to add inverts or small peaceful fish then it may or may not work. It could work for a while, until it doesn't, at which time you'll have to decide what to do then.
  2. my clarkis are jerks !

    Sounds like possibly brooding behavior IMO... Not sure the word "jerk" applies here. One possible solution is to use a larger grain sand and to rest the rocks on the bottom glass directly such that if the sand under the rocks is moved the rocks still don't move because they're not supported at all by the sand. Don't put them in with any other clownfish species though... They're pretty territorial.

    Agree with what clown said... It's not a guarantee that your sand will cause issues when it's re-introduced into the new tank, but generally it doesn't take long for sand to trap enough detritus that stirring it up would cause a substantial "cloud of crap" in the water. The best part about rinsing the sand is starting off with a nice clean tank. Adding the sand back after you rinse it won't cloud the water up. The only real con to rinsing the sand is loss of the microfauna. Basically all the tiny microscopic life that's living in the sand. Not to say that it's lost forever though because it's in your rock also and in short order the sand becomes "live" again. So again it's a con, but only temporarily. If you're absolutely keen on keeping the old sand I would at the very least stir it up in some water and try to suck out as much of the gunky water as possible. As long as you take care to get the new water to the same salinity and pH as your old water you can change as much or as little water out during this move as you want. Guess it's a moot point since you're already a few hours in - but in-case someone else reads Good luck!
  4. Nice update. Looks like the tank is coming along well. On the topic of the flow adapter - If you don't mind, would you shoot those measurements my way as well? I have the piece and could obviously measure myself but I have the crappy plastic calipers from harbor freight so not sure how accurate I would be... One nice thing about the tunze scraper is that it's less likely to pick up rocks and scratch the glass. I almost got this one but at the time there weren't many pictures or videos of the pico one so I opted for the twolittlefishies one. While tiny I doubt it's nearly as effective as the tunze pico.
  5. Hammer not doing well

    That mass of goo on the right looks like brown jelly disease to me... If you sucked it up with a baster I bet it smells absolutely horrible. Try to keep water quality high. Honestly with the wall euphyllia there's not a lot you can do. Cutting the dead parts off would just add more stress. Looks like a nice coral too
  6. starting 1st cycle

    Sorry I didn't mean to say you should abandon this thread - by all means feel free to keep posting here about the developments of your new tank adventure! Mostly I was just encouraging you to try posting in some other threads in addition
  7. Been eyeing an Inkbird and have a question

    Agree here. The only real reason I have a temp controller is to reduce my reliance on the mechanical thermostat in most aquarium heaters. If you want the tank to be 78 degrees then you set the controller to that temp and set the heater to 80. If you do it right then the controller controls the temp and if for some reason it fails then you have the heater's thermostat as a backup. I don't keep a mechanical thermometer in my tanks that have the inkbird, but I do check it from time to time. I'm trying to think how long I've had their controllers... One is probably from about 2 years ago and the other from about 1.5 yrs ago. I would say I have a high degree of confidence in them - I do check and clean the probes every 4-6 months. Beyond that all I can say is that 100% of my aquarium heaters have failed at some point.
  8. And...CRASH! After 7years. :-( Solana 34

    Nice FTS. Also if you ever move I'll buy your old house lol... I want to move west pretty bad but I still have some convincing of the family :/
  9. Great balls of fire! My 3 gallon macroalgae tank

    In the picture the rock just looks like it's covered with a bunch of sponges and hairy stuff. IME looks like uncured anyways. It could be the picture though. A monti would be cool here, but they grow quick and in this small of a tank would create a lot of shade quickly. Why not try an encrusting variety? If you like spending a little bit of time each time you look at the tank to find the shrimp then it might be of interest to you still - they do look cool. But they're cryptic - that's all. If you're okay with that then by all means check out the bumblebee shrimp. The same could be said about the pom pom though as well - they pretty much only come out at light out.
  10. starting 1st cycle

    Here are my thoughts on your list: 1) Sixline is an ideal choice. Great fish just make sure you have a lid as they can be jumpers. Also they're a bad choice to keep with mandarins as they will out compete it for eating pods. 2) Flame angel I have mixed thoughts on. They're one of the smaller dwarf angels but I believe that they're more advanced fish. Here are the reasons I think that. - Dwarf angels are notorious for bringing parasites with them. They're robust fish in the wild so that works. As they go through the shipping process their immune systems become compromised and they end up infested - even the most beautiful fish at the store likely has issues that are hidden from your eyes. I personally wouldn't consider a dwarf angel unless you can properly quarantine it and you have several medications on hand to deal with the likely need to treat. The most common medications are praziquantel, metronidazole, and cupramine or chloroquine phosphate. A broad spectrum anti-biotic isn't a bad idea but probably not necessary to have on hand. This also goes for many wrasses (esp. Cirrhilabrus). - Dwarf angels are omnivorous and they're foragers. You need a lot of productive live rock to satisfy their need for greens and other things like sponges. The alternative is to feed algae supplements such as nori sheet and there are frozen preparations that have a variety of foods that angels need. It seems like a LOT of these fish live fine for about 6 months and then waste away due to malnutrition. If you get one I would plan on having an above average feeding regimen. I don't think you can get away with just feeding every few days. I'm sure you can get lots of opinions on this but only pay attention to the ones who have kept a dwarf angel like this for years, not months. - They're messy. High-bio load fish. - They commonly nip at corals I'm not necessarily trying to dissuade you from keeping a dwarf angel but your tank is pretty small for one given your other fish wants, and they are a bit more high maintenance than typical fish. 3) Green clown goby is a good choice IMO. Might be a bit hard to feed as it's not an aggressive feeder compared to the other fish on your list - so make sure it gets a good amount of food. 4 and 5) The clownfish are obvious choices. I wouldn't consider having a reef tank without a clown (unless it were too small or something like that). 6) You're on the right track with the mandarin. Getting a captive-bred specimen should enhance your chances of success significantly. Ultimately though they do require a lot of attention and care. I feel that keeping one with a sixline wrasse or other pod eating fish puts them at a disadvantage. The best conditions for them IMO are a more peaceful tank without many boisterous tank mates and, if possible, a refugium for growing pods and worms. Ultimately your fish selection aren't bad, but you've got a mix of semi-aggressive and less aggressive peaceful fish there. Unless you really work at it the less aggressive fish likely won't do well long term. Also - try to get out and make some posts in other threads... looks like all your activity is here.
  11. Inkbird issues

    Make sure your heater's thermostat is set high enough
  12. Crashing and I don't know why

    The ALK drop seems high to me given the corals you have in there... What size tank is this? I wouldn't be concerned with the bristle worms... - Do you know how to check for stray voltage? Leaky heaters and pumps can cause symptoms that are hard to detect in reef tanks. - About how long on average are these corals lasting in your tank? A few weeks? A few months? - Are you getting all your corals from the same supplier? - How are you acclimating them? Do you light acclimate? - What's your flow like? - List all the other inhabitants of the tank (fish, snails, crabs, etc) Any issues with snails or crabs dying? - How would you describe your tank overall? Nutrient rich, normal, or nutrient poor? - Do you have a skimmer? If so how large is it?
  13. Kellie's 25 Lagoon - Slooooow Progress

    Agree with Dave - the stand is slammin'
  14. 2g Do!aqua cube

    You know - I like a nice bubble coral... That one looks pretty good IMO. Nice soft flow. Like the tank as well! DIY skimmer is a nice touch lol - given the Do!aqua tank
  15. Crashing and I don't know why

    Hmmm... more questions. - Do you dose anything? or add anything to the tank? - What salt mix do you use and how are you mixing? (like do you use RO water?) - Do you have an ATO? Infrequent top offs can cause salinity swings. - Are you 100% sure you're calibrating your refractometer correctly? Have you thought about checking it with another just to be sure? There was a good post on here recently where the OP was using the wrong calibration solution and the device was off considerably. - What's your flow like? - Do I understand it that you run the AI prime at 100%? That seems like maybe a lot for a 10g... - Have you ever measured pH? What % of the tank is covered? Do you notice any issues with fish like labored breathing or hanging around the surface? - Have you inspected the tank at night? It wouldn't be a bad idea to use a red light and spend some time after lights out looking around the tank. There could be something irritating the corals. For example I had a GSP mat that would occasionally look like it went through hell... After some time I finally found out that my cowrie snail was grazing. Hopefully you get some ideas.