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About SantaMonica

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    Santa Monica, CA, USA
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    Aquariums, ponds

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  1. Chaeto Reactors compared to Algae Scrubbers

    Chaeto Reactors compared to Algae Scrubbers, part 2 By Santa Monica Filtration Now for some basic differences; more detailed differences will be in subsequent posts. The first and maybe most important difference is that chaeto reactors grow only in saltwater (fish only, or fish with live rock, or reef) whereas algae scrubbers grow (filter) in both saltwater and freshwater. Growing = filtering. But even if you are exclusively freshwater, understanding the differences between reactors and scrubbers enables you to optimize a system for your tank. There have not been any experiments of chaeto in brackish water however. A second difference is size; a chaeto reactor needs to be much larger than an algae scrubber. Many saltwater tanks have large sumps, and even dedicated fish rooms, so this may not be an issue. Through experiential results of individual aquarists running chaeto reactors over the last few years, and through many thousands of aquarists running algae scrubbers over the last ten years, it has been observed that a chaeto reactor needs to be 4 to 8 times the physical size of an algae scrubber to provide the same rate of filtering capacity (rate of nutrient removal). A third difference is seeding; a chaeto reactor needs to be seeded with a small amount of chaeto, either from another aquarium, reactor, or from your last harvest (i.e., you don’t harvest all of it), whereas an algae scrubber will self-seed from invisible algal cells in the water. When self-seeding, algae scrubbers usually start out with a slime type of growth, and this sometimes progresses on to a green hair algae growth, depending on the nutrients in the water. A fourth difference is in how you clean (harvest). For a chaeto reactor, you disassemble the reactor usually by unscrewing several screws on the top of the container, and then by pulling out a tube or frame from the container; the chaeto growth is then removed from the frame and the frame is replaced back into the container, and the lid and screws are put back into place. Since chaeto does not attach to a surface, you often get broken chaeto pieces that flow into your tank or sump when you harvest; a filter screen in the reactor can reduce this. For an algae scrubber, cleaning (harvesting) varies on what design it is; freshwater versions will usually be taken to a sink for the cleaning because of the thin and slimy growth (saltwater versions can also be cleaned in a sink, but are sometimes harvested in-place). A horizontal river design will have a light that you lift up off of the container, and a screen that you remove from the container. A waterfall design will have a screen that you remove from a pipe; sometimes the whole pipe is removed, and sometimes the pipe is in a container that you need to open first. A bubble upflow design has at least part of the container under water, which you lift out of the water. And for all algae scrubbers, since the growth is attached to a surface, broken floating algae pieces are not common when you harvest on a proper schedule. Bubble upflow scrubbers almost never detach because the growth is supported by the water. A fifth difference is fish feeding; by feeding your fish from the growth, the fish eat naturally and you don’t have to buy and add food to the water (which creates nutrients). Very few if any aquarium animals eat chaeto, so the only option is to remove the chaeto and either throw it away or give it to a friend. For algae scrubbers, it depends on the growth: Slime (although full of absorbed nutrients from the water) is usually not eaten by aquarium fish and thus is scraped off and thrown away or used as garden fertilizer. Green hair algae however is eaten by almost all herbivore fish and many snails (it’s their nature food), and thus some of the growth can be fed back to the fish, especially in freshwater where algae scrubbers almost always grow this type of growth. A sixth difference is overgrowth of algae on the lights. Chaeto reactors usually have a large surface area light (such as a long coiled light strip), and the illumination from these is not enough to “burn” off algae growth on the surface of the clear wall (this growth reduces illumination output). So you will need to clean these glass surfaces in order to keep the illumination at full output. Most algae scrubbers however use discrete (separate) high power LEDs which produce enough illumination in a small space to burn off algal growth on glass surfaces; for these you do not need to wipe the growth off because it does not grow there. A last difference is overgrowth of algae on the algae itself. Chaeto is a slow growing species of algae because of it’s thick cellular structure, and if conditions favor faster growing algae you will get green hair algae which attaches on top of the chaeto, causing the chaeto to be blocked from light and flow, and eventually causing the chaeto to die and rot. There is no easy way to wipe green hair algae from chaeto; the chaeto must just be harvested earlier instead. For algae scrubbers, green hair algal growth on top of more green hair growth is how scrubbers operate in the first place, so earlier harvesting is not needed.
  2. Chaeto Reactors compared to Algae Scrubbers

    Chaeto Reactors compared to Algae Scrubbers, part 1 All macroalgae operate basically the same, chemically. They all use light, photosynthetically, to absorb nutrients from the water (i.e., filtering) and to grow biomass. Just like trees. The differences between types of macroalgae are in the physical structure of the macroalgae growth and the way the structure affects nutrient absorption speed, which means filtering. Here are the main differences as far as aquarists are concerned: Chaeto: Pronounced KAY-toe. Chaeto is the nickname for Chaetomorpha, and it looks like a green dishwasher cleaning pad. It has no "roots" and thus does not attach to solid surfaces. It grows in saltwater only, and is not eaten by many fish. Green Hair Algae: Includes Cladophora "angel hair" and Ulva "Easter basket" types. It has "roots" which attach to solid surfaces. It grows in freshwater and saltwater, and is eaten by almost all herbivores. Slime: A solid algal growth, bright green to brown to black in color, that attaches to solid surfaces but not very securely. Chaeto Reactor: A device that has water running through it, with chaeto growing in it. Also known as an "algae reactor". A chaeto reactor does not allow air to enter; only water, and these reactors usually have a lid attached with screws to keep water in and air out. Algae Scrubber: Also called a Turf Scrubber, or Algal Turf Scrubber (ATS). A device that allows air and water to interact to create a turbulent air/water interface like waves on a beach; it grows green hair algae or slime that attaches to solid surfaces. Reactors and scrubbers are different from refugiums; a refugium (“fuge”) is a space in a sump where macroalgae is placed, and a light is put over it. Refugiums have very slow flow, and very low light penetration, compared to reactors or scrubbers. You could modify a refugium to be a reactor, and with more mods you could make it a scrubber. But then it would no longer be a refugium. All oceans, reefs, lakes and rivers are naturally filtered by photosynthesis. This means that algae does all the filtering of these waters. This is why algae is at the base of the entire aquatic food chain, and why algae biomass dwarfs the biomass of all aquatic animals combined. But for algae to absorb nutrients out of the water, the algae must grow. And to absorb nutrients faster, the algae must grow faster. Next we will look at what makes different types of macroalgae absorb nutrients differently.
  3. Chaeto Reactors compared to Algae Scrubbers

    Will consider, thanks.
  4. With more people wanting to use natural filtration for their tanks, we are going to look at the two main types of units that you can put on your system: Chaeto reactors (or "algae reactors") and algae turf scrubbers (ATS). We won’t be looking at refugiums however, since those have mostly a different purpose. This will be a multi-part post; the next post will start with the basics, so if you’d like anything in particular to be covered, let us know.
  5. DIY Internal Algae Turf Scrubber for Biocube 29

    Both of those are way too big ... they are 12" across. A small 6 watt LED grow light would work.
  6. Automatic Brine Shrimp Hatchery

    I thought at first you meant a ready-to-buy unit, which I've been looking for. For yours, it seems a sticking point is flow into and out of the bottle, when there should be no flow.
  7. Mushrooms bad with sps?

    Just start your sps out small, and see if they grow. If they do well, they will do even better when bigger.
  8. The many methods of training Dragonets

    Not really. But got a chance to reach the first post and it was great training info.
  9. Using Seaweed to get rid of nuisance algae in your aquarium or pond, part 2 So how does photosynthesis "pull" the carbon it needs out of the air or water? Doesn't CO2 or other nutrients just "soak" into things by themselves? For example, doesn't CO2 just soak into trees? Meaning, if you have more trees, won't more CO2 just soak into them? No, not really. CO2 and other things do "soak" into water, but the reason that the water does not "fill up" with CO2 is because organisms in the water "pull" and "eat" the CO2. What organisms might these be? Algae, of course. Or more specifically Photo-Auto-Trophs (photoautotrophs), which means they get their food (carbon) all by themselves (auto), without needing to eat other animals, and they do this using sunlight (photo). In the open ocean and open lakes, all this is done by free-floating algae (phyto plankton), but as you the get to shallower areas of the reefs and lake shores (and in streams and shallow rivers), it is done by benthic (attached) algae on the bottom surfaces. We will be calling all attached algae "seaweed", even if it's in freshwater lakes, because saying "lakeweed" is a bit odd. The faster that carbon is taken out of the water by the seaweed on the bottom surfaces, the faster CO2 can continue to absorb into the water at the water's surface. This is an important idea to understand; it forms a CO2 "gradient". This idea is easier to explain by thinking about an oven: Standing far away from an oven, you might barely feel the heat, but as you move closer to the oven, your temperature rises. So even though the oven is making the same heat, the amount of heat you feel depends on how close you are to it. With seaweed on the bottom of the reef or lake, the amount of CO2/carbon the seaweed "feels" depends on (among other things) how close the seaweed is to the surface of the water where the air is, because this is where CO2 is being absorbed into the water from the air. This is one of the reasons (besides light) why all the phytoplankton lives near the surface of the water. Seaweed however is far from the water surface, and water that is next to the seaweed (say, 1 cm away) has had so much carbon removed that there might be little carbon remaining. So by making the air more near to the seaweed, it feels and has access to more CO2/carbon. This "near-ness" of air to the seaweed is what makes things work for our filtering needs.
  10. Bowing tank question

    Could always lower the water level to make a Volcano Tank, and if it leaked it would not be much. Could keep the corals too.
  11. Eshopps Curve Refugium light

    If you can use red or plant-grow LED's, you will get faster growth (filtering).
  12. Red sea peninsula tank coming!

    Love peninsulas
  13. Flow question [?]

    That seems super strong. Might make some softies mad.