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About javisaman

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    Nano Reefer
  • Birthday 11/03/1985

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  1. low par numbers from DIY LED

    Interesting, didn't know that.
  2. low par numbers from DIY LED

    I will measure the current coming out at some point. With the addition of the optics, things look a bit better (not measuring par). I have the LEDs set to 80% RB, 40% NW, and 80% Violet. Nothing has bleached since. So we'll see how it goes.
  3. low par numbers from DIY LED

    It was 8" with those measurements. It is now about 6". With the shield on I obviously can't get closer to the diode, so likely I was measuring further away.
  4. low par numbers from DIY LED

    I think that the meter is correct. I tried out a par30 and the numbers seem right. The par30 has 60 degree optics and the readings are slightly higher than my light. Though I have more LEDs, I know that doesn't exactly mean more par, just better spread. Thank you for the input, bfliflet. The LEDs are not running in parallel off the drivers. There is an acrylic shield on the fixture, I measured with it on and off and it drops the par about 100. I should check to see if I really am getting the expected current out of the LDDs.
  5. low par numbers from DIY LED

    Indeed. Any ideas?
  6. low par numbers from DIY LED

    Hi I'm not necessarily new to LEDs, have been using them for a few years actually. I did build a new fixture for my 60 gallon cube (24" x 24" x 24") with the following parts. 24 x Cree XT-E royal blue 12 x Cree XT-E natural white 10 x Hyper/True Violet(mix) 6 x Ocean Coral White (not installed yet) 90 degree optics on Cree 3 x 1000mA meanwell LDD (RB & NW) 4 x 500mA meanwell LDD (for exotic LEDs) On my 20 gallon long I was able to support SPS with 20 RB and 10 NW XPs with no optics. I never measured par from that fixture. Using my seneye par meter, the readings without optics for my new light fixture are: at fixture (1" below fixture) : 1050 at water surface (8" from fixture): 250 at 6" below surface: 50 with 90 degree optics at fixture (1" below fixture): 2100 at water surface: 550 at 6" below surface: 150 Using a makersled 18" heatsink with 2 90mm fans. Considering my tank is 24" deep, those numbers are God awful. Compared to the numbers I've seen around the internet these seem absurdly low. I was hoping for a full blown sps tank. Should I replace the optics? Any other suggestions
  7. bartlett's anthias dying with mouth open

    Thanks for the reply and sorry for your loss. Bumping up this thread, because I'd like to know other people's experience.
  8. Not my picture but exactly the same symptoms I have a 60 gallon cube that's been up for about 7 months now. As of right now I have a single clownfish, one fire shrimp, and bunch of snails and hermits. My parameters are well within the normal range, as I keep SPS corals. I've had 3 anthias, 2 of them died within the first month, the last one died about 2 months later, today. I suspected that the fish had flukes from the beginning and treated them accordingly, however, even with that the fish eventually died. They all had this trademark open mouth and wide open gills. I've fresh water dipped them to see if any flukes came off, and there are none. Now I know it isn't ammonia poisoning as my corals would likely be the first to show symptoms and when I measure I get a zero reading. Could it be lack of oxygen? I have enough flow to keep SPS, so I'm sure sure how that could be. Could it be stress from having a light on all the time? Not the aquarium lights, but ambient lights. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Randalls anthias or resplendent?

    Yea it's a juvenile so it's hard to say. Probably resplendent though. Either way, nurse it back to health!
  10. Official Mandarin and Dragonet Show off thread

    I had a mandarin pair for the over two years (the male for over 4). When I bought the female she was about 1/2 the size of the male. I finally moved them from my 20g to my 60g in June and they were doing great for a month. The female became pregnant and began to aggressively attack the male (though he was still slightly bigger). I had to give the male away to a reputable LFS. Just a word to the wise, if planning on keeping a pair make sure the male is significantly bigger than the female. Territories are a big deal to these fish and I think the move along with the pregnancy changed the dynamics of their relationship. From my experience with the few mandarins I've owned, weak or juvenile males should never be housed with conspecifics
  11. I read the shipping/packaging coral sticky but all of the pictures seem to be removed and most of the info seems somewhat outdated (or unverified). I'm looking to ship SPS colonies from my tank in MD to my new tank in CA. Most of the colonies are in the ball park of 3" x 3" x 3", though some are bigger in some dimensions. What is the absolute safest way to ship them? This is what I have planned (based on the info I've gathered from numerous threads): 1) Buy a bunch of tall tupperware containers. 2) cut colony from live rock, hopefully leaving a bit of the live rock where it encrusted. 3) place base of colony on styrofoam cut out (approximately the size of of the opening of the tupperware container). 4) fill tupperware with tank water enough to submerge colony 5) place colony upside down into tupperware container, hopefully leaving some air above the styrofoam. 6) cover all tupperware with plastic aquarium bags 7) place all tupperware containers into fitted styrofoam box 8) fill gaps with packaging peanuts 9) tape appropriate coldpack to lid 10) place in accompanying box and ship overnight via FedEx Is it worth wrapping the colonies in paper towels? I've never had corals shipped that way. Though I will do anything to boost chances of surviving. Should I remove acro crabs and ship them separately?
  12. favorite/coolest looking SPS?

    Another Reef Raft piece (from the Reef Raft Asia FB page) If I only had the money haha and wasn't paranoid about losing thousands of dollars in coral. Usually $350 a frag.
  13. Full spectrum LED layouts

    I've requested a change of my order per your suggestions. Strange thing is that I run 20RB, 6NW, 4CW, 6 TV without optics on my 20 gallon long right now. At peak they will go up the RBs will go up to 900mA, N/CW will go to 600mA, and the TVs will go to 500mA. I haven't had any severe bleaching issues once everything has been acclimated. I just assumed my 60 cube would need more light and optics to account for twice the depth.
  14. Full spectrum LED layouts

    24 RB, 12 NW, 9 OCW, 6 TV
  15. Full spectrum LED layouts

    Hmm, I'm going 60 degree all the way around 51 LEDs in total for my 24 x 24 x 24 tank. I already placed the order, but I think there is still an opportunity for me to cancel if need be. The fixture will be at least 12" above the water line and it'll be SPS dominated. But as I'm reading it seems current convention is to leave out optics entirely, guess I haven't been in the LED scene for a while. Should I stick with what I have? Or reorder with looser optics?