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sean-820

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About sean-820

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  1. Sean's 20H Bonsai Reef

    Hi NR, I have decided to share my nano setup here in hopes to hear what you guys like or don't like about it. Aquarium: - Miracles 20H (Display) - Miracles 15g (Frag) Lighting: - Rapid LED ONYX (29 Cree LEDs) (Display) - Rapid LED ONYX (29 Cree LEDs) (Frag) Heating: - Eheim Jager 100w Filtration: - 10g sump with bubble-trap fed via HOB overflow box - Vertex Omega 130 skimmer - 200 micron mesh filter sock at sump intake - Avast Marine MR5 media reactor (Nitraguard Biocubes) powered by Sicce Syncra 1.0 with venturi Circulation: - Sicce Syncra 2.0 sump return @ 568gph (not including head loss) - Hydor Evolution Nano @ 425gph (Display) - Hydor Koralia 1 @ 400gph (Frag)) Wavemakers: - Vortech MP10 Miscellaneous: - Double switch sump mount ATO from www.autotopoff.com - Reef Keeper Light (Level 1) - Spectrapure 90GPD MaxCap RODI unit FTS (approx. 3 years ago) I have recently added a 15g frag tank which has allowed me to be able to clear up the sand bed. FTS (6 months ago) I would definitely be interested in hearing what you guys think I could do to improve the setup. Coral, livestock, equipment or other suggestions are definitely welcome!
  2. I think the monti caps will look really cool when they are grown out though, in a tank that size I am not sure I would locate them all together as it may make too large of a monti cap "wall" relative to the tanksize. I would also add more sps or other more branching type corals to the big left rock, Since it has a fairly flat face I would limit the amount of encrusting corals. I would also consider rotating the right island a bit to get more of a channel between. I also agree that your left rock may be too large or at least too close to the glass. Essentially just make sure you have enough room for your future corals to grow.
  3. FTS about 6 months ago. I have already done some changes including adding a frag tank: Hardscape when first setup: Let me know what suggestions including what corals would be good to add/ move/ remove.
  4. please help with my reef tank!

    Another thing is how clean are your hands when going in the tank? Do you use any lotions or anything that could of gotten in the water?
  5. what can i use to glue wet rocks together?

    I use dollar store cyanoacrylate glue. Keep in mind the glue will harden quick when exposed to water so it wont work if by wet rocks you mean underwater. Super glue followed by epoxy works well. If you can I would take the rock out of water, pat the spot dry, apply super glue and epoxy to attach them. A couple elastic bands could be helpful to hold them together so you can glue them as you like.
  6. please help with my reef tank!

    If the corals touched two weeks ago then I don't think it would be the cause. Neither of those species are known to be aggressive. I used to use IO and it seemed fine. I currently use reef crystals but I don't think there is anything wrong with IO. You could try to blow detritus out of the rocks but you will want to do a water change at this time so don't have problems from the stirred up waste.
  7. I would just add some more weight to it. I did a ball of just filter floss before and it stayed in place alone. Mayby you have too small a quantity? You could also dial the flow back a bit if you can sacrifice some gph.
  8. I think you are fine for FOWLR or softies. I would include any powerheads, hobs, reactors or anything that adds current to the DT though like said you should take into account any headloss, media resistance etc. With that said gph is just a generic tool to give you an idea of how much flow you have. On my 20g (some sps) DT I have a korillia at 400gph, 425gph, 550gph as well as a return line mag 3 which is 350gph before about 3 ft of headloss. You could potentially have more flow though with just softies /lps I would just leave it as it is for now unless you notice dead spots.
  9. 10 gallon flow?

    Fishguy, it depends what you want coral wise. If you wanted sps you may want another korallia or even vortech. Softies or lps you would be good. I have heard that even the controllable korallias will make clicks on a wave maker turning on and off. You may want to consider eventually going with a vortech instead of adding another korallia and controller as it would probably only be another 100$. You may want to remove some of that rock for coral growth in the future. Unless it is dense rock, I cant see you having too much room to add corals or for them to grow. The 750 will be fine for sps though some areas will have more flow then others. I would just try to create higher flow areas wherever the light can support the sps. a second smaller korallia could be used to create flow from another angle though the 750 should give you areas of high enough flow for sps though I don't think it will be that strong anywhere in the tank.
  10. please help with my reef tank!

    I would start with some water changes and add/ change out any carbon you may be using. Like said if a coral is releasing toxins carbon should help. Hopefully that will clear it up soon. Check for anything decaying as well though that would probably raise the nitrates. With zero no2 and no3 it sounds like it could be chemical warefare.
  11. *can What are tiny amounts? Ac110 does have a pretty large capacity. Most DSH tanks online only have a few lbs at most often being sub 5g. Some have just sand. The picos DSH are often kept in can only hold a tiny amount of rock or sand. The tanksize I am looking at is 6g though I am looking at mayby 2 pairs (plus some offspring). What quantity of media (rock, ceramics...) would you be using?
  12. Bio pellets

    There is a new product that is called nitraguard bio cubes made by orca labs. It is supposed have a similar effect to biopellets but does not require a reactor. It is still new meaning there is not much in the way of reviews or longterm effects but it may be a product you may be interested in. The price is a bit high still but should drop with time though biopellets and reactors are not cheap either. I was interested in biopellets though I have heard mixed reviews on them so am unsure. I am hoping this product preforms well and can eliminate the bad effects some people have had with biopellets like issues with softcorals and lps. http://reefbuilders.com/2012/09/27/nitraguard-biocubes-orca/
  13. ATO holding tank, Heater or no Heater?

    I do not heat mine though my ATO top up goes to my sump where it gets mixed around and heated before it gets to my DT. I can't see an ATO being on enough to need to be heated separately though the only way I could see it being potentially bad is if you have the line shooting at a coral and have the difference in temp and salinity irritate it if it is going off somewhat frequently. I would just put the line ideally to a sump, false wall or if you just have a DT put it in a corner away from livestock so It can mix a bit before getting to them. What type of setup do you have? Basically just try to mix it in the tank as much as you can before it contacts livestock by: 1) deposit it into the start of a sump/ overflow 2) start of a false wall 3) away in a corner that receives circulation. Unless you are running large halides you probably wont have significant evap to worry about.
  14. ^I must have missed where I claimed to know everything... I am certainly open to suggestions though no offence but your opinion means nothing to me unless you have actual proof besides being simply that, an opinion. Provide actual reasons and I will certainly entertain them. I am aware of the nitrogen cycle and not to sound ignorant but I have been in this hobby longer then you. I still don't understand how you (correct me if I am wrong.) said pH is not important (which was my actual question). Yes you are correct that other parameters like alkalinity can stabilize it but fish are a lot better with a stable pH and a varying alkalinity then a varying pH and a stable alkalinity. Yes they work hand it hand, but my point is that it is the pH swing that is detrimental. Which lieads to my original question of how stable the pH would be from water changes alone. Quick read if you still think pH has no importance. http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/marineaquarium/ph.php I am also still wondering do you think any pico/ nano is actually stable? A 10g system will be stable as long as it is maintained. You can have it filled with LR and have it crash after detritus built up in it. Point is, maitnence is the most important factor in any small system IMHO. I also have a 2g pico WITH live rock. Is the tank self stabilizing because it has a pound or two of LR, no. The volume is too small to have a stable system. Can I keep it stable, yes. How you may ask? Through water changes and maitnence. With that said, I do agree that live rock can be an effective method of filtration however I don't think a couple pounds in a nano will make nearly as much of a difference compared with water changes. If you do a google seach you can already see most people with dwarfs keep them in pico with limited (if any) amounts of rock and sand. I am certainly not being a trailblazer here. "Take care to use only hydroid free live rock. In fact, the author prefers to not use any live rock in a dwarf tank at all [sand was however used]."-seahorse.org Lastly, you are making assumptions on the setup in which I havn't even come close to finalizing. I could easily add a hob filter as it is not like I can't have biomedia somewhere else. At this time I will be using a skimmer (with whatever I can potentially stuff in it) and water changes only. I am not fully sure on the skimmers specs so I don't know how much media I can even fit in it. I may not even do a skimmer and just go with an ac110 with biomedia instead. All I said in my initial description is I didn't want LR or LS in the main tank which was enough information for my actual question. I wanted to know the stability of a sytem with no LR or LS though I never said I wouldnt do some other biomedia. I may not necessarily put rock rubble in a HOB I have plenty of other bio media I can easily fit somewhere though Its difficult to say where when I am am not even sure if I am running a hob, skimmer or what. All I know at this point is any intake will need a sponge filter which by itself was a dominant filter years ago so it can certainly store bacteria fine. Other then that, I will know what I can actually do when I have decided on the equipment I am using.
  15. There would be enough room in the skimmer for I'd estimate only a pound or two plus a sponge filter intake. Flow through it would be about 250gph. i may just end up putting a few chunks of dry rocks in the tank.
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