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About Vincerama

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    Dashing Man about Town
  • Birthday 10/06/1968

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  • Interests
    Motorcycles, fish, cooking
  1. Try raising the skimmer out of the water more, that way, you can run it with the valve wider open, that seems to help a bit. V
  2. El cheapo AC/DC adapters. I agree, I went to a Tru Hardware place and I asked for a universal adapter. I got one for 5 bucks, it maxes at 500mA, but it was enough for my purposes (to charge a battery jump start pack for my car that I lost the charger for) It allows for changing of polarities, plus had all sorts of plug ends, including Sony walkman (not standard) ones. And had a nice range of voltages. Gonna get another one, just because it's so handy!) V
  3. Halfway down the page.... This is my ghetto-ish setup. I had built a canopy for 2x36W PC, then I switched to the regent, so I built a simple wooden "Gallows" for it. The wood does not get hot at all. V
  4. If you look around, you'll discover that the UHI-70W bulbs that Ushio sells as 70W are sold on some sites as 75W!! V
  5. My 70W MH is great. Lots of good growth on SPS and stuff. I'm moving on up to a 40 gallon breeder with it's own 175W. Might use my nano as a simple growout/prop tank. No heat issues, nothing has shorted or burned down my house. It's great! V
  6. Wiper pump vs powerhead... The AQ200F powerheads have extrernal AC adapters, so if you don't want to run house AC through your switch, use one of those (can't remember who makes them). THe wiper pump might have a better duty cycle than the powerheads. Powerheads sometimes won't start, wiper pumps probably are made to always start....though wiper pumps probably aren't made to run that often either. Afraid of snails/excess top off? You can wire in another float switch in series with the circuit to shut off if too much water is in the tank. However, very nice idea. Excellent! V
  7. Thanks for the tip! I will pick up one of these pumps! I think that most people use pumps that can pump more "head". Also, most people don't think about using 12V pumps, just the powerheads you buy in stores. V
  8. I've used Kent's Phytoplankton. I figure it will feed the bottom of the food chain and so the top of the food chain will be supported. Occasionally I manually feed "Sweetwater zooplankton" to my lps (torch, candycane). They seem to take it, though I only feed to so few corals that the rest of the jar of zooplankton is starting to rot. It will likely be fed to my freshwater fish instead! Some people don't feed their tanks at all! My setup is a 10g with a 10g sump/ there is lots of naturally occuring food bits floating around. My sps and lps and softies seem to be thriving right it seems to work! V
  9. Use superglue GEL, not the watery superglue! THe gel forms a blob that you can glue pretty much anything too, since it doens't have to be flat up against he rock. ANd it cures quick...and underwater too! V
  10. Ah the old Shipping and Handling trick. If you go to to find computer parts, it used to rank sellers by lowest product price. So you would find CPUs for sale for $5, with $60 shipping and handling! That way the lure of the low price gets you, but they make all their profit on "handling"! V
  11. Good luck! Don't sweat "Stepping on anyones toes" I mean, come on here, this is what free enterprise is all about! I don't think (but I don't know either) that the "other" float switches use a relay, I do believe they pass AC. As long as your pump does not draw more current than the switch is rated for, you should be OK. V
  12. I need pictures! My tank is afflicted by bad aquascaping and I have very little in there. I even built an acrylic shelf to put my sps on! V
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  14. The ballast I have has 4 wires (maybe 5). Green = "earth ground" Black = hot White = neutral 2 blue wires = the lampholder leads, ie; the bulb connections The lamp assembly housed a halogen lamp, which is incandescent, so it just took ac current through it without a ballast. My pendant had 3 wires. black, white, bare copper. In "halogen mode" it's easy, just hook the wires up according to their matching coloured wires (with the bare copper wire going to "earth ground") from the wall/light switch. The black and white wires from the pendant are just the wires to the ends of the lamp holders, ie; the ends of the bulb. These then, are connected to the blue wires of your ballast. Your ballast, in turn connects to the house wiring via a plug. The wiring diagram should be printed on the ballast itself. V
  15. The one I use is made of metal, as would any housing for a 300W bulb! It's made of aluminum, which is a very soft metal and drills very easily. If you read the entire thread (ugh!) you will see the whole discussion on which pendants will work. I had to grind away the ceramic lamp holder with a dremel. It's all in the thread.... V