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About c_k_kuehne

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    Pico Methodology
  • Birthday 08/03/1964

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    Central GA
  1. In a frathouse --- don't forget to drink your Weadamins (sic? ) for breakfast. It just doesn't get any lower than that. Which is good cause then you can only move up in the world.
  2. Black makes everything stand out better. Blue will give you the apperance of a bigger tank.
  3. Harbor freight also has a $20.00 portable drill press. You install your own drill and turn the base backwards. Before using remove the front cover and using pliers carefully remove the return spring. For $20 makes a great drill press to use for drilling tanks. Also Walmart has a $15 one speed drill. It goes 1200 rpm which is really close to the recommended 1300 rpm glass drilling speed.
  4. Nice looking tank. Thanks for sharing your login and password so we could look. Charles
  5. Just curious --- what type of hood if any does it come with ? I can't imagine AGA would come out w/ a tank and no hood option. Also does it come with a base like the 7 Minibow
  6. If you build your canopy correctly you shouldn't need 8 -10 inches. The tank if I remember correctly is 18" high. Add a few inches of sand and you have 16" high. With that height you could use a 150 watt de MH. Build the canopy 5 inches high have the top 2.5 inches for bulb and glass UV shield. Install a 4" fan on one side so half the fan blows through the bulb area and half the fan blows through the area between the glass shield and water surface. If you pick the right fan and done correctly you should be able to get a 5" high canopy w/out any heat issues. And there is also no need to bend wood. Does this new 16 Minibow come w/ a plastic hood similar to the 7 Minibow. If so here is an alternate plan. Build a rectangular canopy that fits over the back rectangular area of the Minibow. Finish it in a nice high gloss black. Next carefully cut off the curved front section of standard Minibow top. Cut carefully for a custom/snug fit. If done correctly you have both the rectangular conopy and the small curved section on the tank at the same time. It will appear as one hood. Plus you get to keep the nice little door for feeding and water testing ect... You can also take off the curved section if you need to get in the tank w/ a little bit of room or remove both for major tank cleaning. I did this on my 7 Minibow and work out awesome. Looks like one very professional made hood and you can't tell there are two pieces. Unfortunatly I don't have a digital camera so I don't yet have a pic of this new canopy of mine. A good place to purchase quiet fans is http://www.orionfans.com So what do think of that idea ????
  7. Something to consider. Tempered glass is very strong in the middle but the edges are critical. You can smack it in the middle w/ a hammer and nothing happens but if you chip the edge the hole piece of glass explodes. That is why only bottoms of tanks are tempered. Cause it's the one pane of glass that they can cover and protect the edges. The front and sides are never tempered cause they have exposed edges. I would just use standard glass.
  8. Wattage of MH has more to do with depth of tank than anything. At only 12" deep I would stick w/ the 175 or maybe even a 150 DE. My 58 gal w/ 250 watt is 20" deep. It's an inwall setup and I have now converted my website to be all for my Nano so I don't redily have any pics to post
  9. That entire 1st post was way off base. I think if you would have done a bit more reasearch before attempting you would have been successfull. I have drilled over 50 holes in glass and drill peoples tanks on a regular basis. I use steel/brass tube bits. They are fairly inexpensive and last forever. It only takes less than 5 min to drill a hole. out of all the tanks I have ever drilled I have only crack maybe two or three and they were all 10 gal tanks and that has to do w/ how thin the glass in a 10 gal tank is. DIY tank drilling is entirely possible and fairly easy to do. Just do your reasearch before attempting.
  10. As for your question --- on only 30" long I would only use 1 MH. Position it at the 1/3 mark from either side. That side will be your high light level corals and the other side will be for lower light corals. Either way you will have planty of light above the entire tank. I have a 58 gal (36" L x 18" W) and have one 250 watt 10k Ushio above it at the 1/3 mark.
  11. Runner up is not bad. As contest prizes are you takeing me and Chamkeeper out for a seafood dinner or what ???
  12. Big question: How did it get on to the reverse cycle ??? 12 hour power out or bad tank sitter ??
  13. After re-reading this I wonder This is only a 15 high tank ---- Why didn't you just buy another tank and start over. Much, Much safer. And think of the money saved compared to the redo tank giveing way and loosing all your livestock.
  14. Nope --- Silicone will NOT bond to Acrylic properly. Sooner or latter it will give way. If it was me I would have used "Household Goop" Bonds equally well to both acrylic and glass and will give you good long term sucess. Tube does say "Not for Aquarium Use" but thats a liability issue. 10-12 years ago before this was a lawsuit happy country they use to label it "Ideal for aquarium repairs" Now I guess they just don't want the liablity. But there are different flavors "Household", "plumbers", "marine" ect.... I would stick to just the plain "Household"
  15. I went w/ a 250 watt 10k Ushio MH and 2 30 watt 4 times overdriven T8 actinics. I always new I wanted MH just couldn't decide on wattage and bulb choice. Really just make a decision then stop reading --- otherwise you'll drive yourself crazy. And yes ten months later I'm still happy w/ the decision.