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Noobeef

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About Noobeef

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  1. Figured I'd bump this even though I do t have any responses. The tank is 5 months old. The cloudiness has never gone away. I've ran a ton of carbon, uv sterilizer, big water changes... nothing works. The cloudiness gets worse, then better, then worse again...but it never goes away fully. I'm not sure what to do anymore. Ammonia, nitrates at zero. Calcium at 420 last I checked. Nothing is dying and the couple corals I have are thriving (granted it's just GSP and a torch). I'm at my wits end.
  2. I have a tank that is semi-cloudy. At first I had what I thought was a solution. I started up a UV sterilizer, and it took care of it after a few days. So I thought it was a bacterial bloom. But less than a week later, it came back. UV sterilizer is still on, but the cloudiness remains. Phosphates, Ammonia, Nitrates at 0. Calcium 410. I've used mechanical filtration as well. The fog just sort of hangs around. It's not terrible, but I've never had this in any of my tanks.
  3. I have not used it myself. That light would likely be plenty to grow anything you wanted (some positioning may be required). The only legitimate complaint I've heard from the Kessils is they are a single source light so they can cast some mean shadows. I am about to take the plunge on a 180 gallon tank and I plan on using two of the Kessil 360ws to start. Likely add a third later.
  4. Am I handy enough to do it? Probably. But I have a plumber coming out to my house anyway to replace a regulator and some other things. (Recently had a slab leak/flood). I asked him about it and he offered to install it for 100 bucks extra. I'd rather pay the 100 bucks than maybe mess up on something that would give my wife a reason to hate me for a week.
  5. Now another question is what if I just do RO as opposed to both RO/DI? I've read it's actually not terrible to do just RO water as opposed to both, and if you are going to pick just one, to do RO.
  6. Perfect. This is exactly what I was looking for...granted I'll have a plumber do it since I look at that and I see the schematics for a nuclear submarine.
  7. But I still want to have the normal faucet because that's how I'm selling it to my wife, that we can save money on drinking water. Would I be running the RO/DI unit directly into the trash can, or would I be running it into the faucet and then the faucet into the garbage can?
  8. So I have a 150 gallon tank and I am considering taking the plunge into a RO/DI system, but I'm doing the math and I need to do 35 gallon water changes and watching the water trickle out of the little spigot for 35 gallons seems like more of a chore than simply going down the hill to the store to get the water. Not only that, but the reservoir on most of the units is only like 4-5 gallons so I would have to wait to fill up the jugs once the reservoir ran out. Am I missing something here? I am a complete noob when it comes to these units, but we recently had a slab leak and the cabinet on my wet bar (where the unit would be stored) needed to be redone (insurance covered it). I know it sounds handy for top offs, but do you hook up a bigger reservoir to the unit or something?
  9. http://s707.photobucket.com/user/breeder40/media/scumbagstacybubble.jpg.html'>
  10. Greetings, I am going to be going from a 40b to a 72" length, 18" width, 20" deep (essentially just setting two 40bs next to each other). I currently have a couple acros, a clam, and montis (along with an assortment of softies). How many Par 38s do I need to adequately cover? I was thinking six of them using pendant lighting fixtues from Lowes/Home Depot. Is that going to be sufficient? I need an answer quick because my window of opportunity will close quickly as I somehow convinced my wife to do this by explaining we can paint the wall behind the fish tank in between the move...She really wants that wall to be a different color. LOL. I just want to let you know that your monti is awesome. It grew up really nice. My montis always grow kinda flat. That one has excellent facets.
  11. Maroon clowns can get big and he wants to add a pair. I simply said they MAY be too big. I personally think that's a lot of fish. I'm not sure there is a tang you can add to a 40b. You never heard of the tang police? Also, he said he is only getting reef safe fish so angels are out (I have tried two pygmy angels in my reefs and both led to a tearing apart of the tank a week later after they started nipping corals. ) Anthias (from what I've read) need several gallons. Live Aquaria lists them needing 70-125 gallons depending on the type. Not sure if you were thinking I dont think maroons are as cute. I was simply quoting what the OP said. No biggie.
  12. There are a number of things I see wrong. It seems you are sort of set on clowns and the lionfish. Your lionfish and a maroon pair may be too big for a 40 breeder. Maroon clowns are pretty big fish. My advice would be to ditch the lionfish idea so you don’t have to get the clown pair that isn’t “as cute” as other clowns. A 40 breeder precludes you from getting a lot of fish to begin with. Tangs, Angels...all the bigger fish are out. Even Anthias are a no go. There are a lot of fish I’d like to get but can’t due to other tank inhabitants. I’m also not familiar with lionfish and clean-up crews; an absolute must in a reef tank (if you decide to go that route later). Make your life easier by ditching the lion and opening up a number of other fish. Second, as far as that LED lighting option., maybe you can think of upgradeable lighting. For instance, since you don’t have a reef right now you could probably buy 3 of these bulbs: http://www.leddepot.com/par-lamps-c-67/par30-series-c-67_78/greenwatt-par309wdimmable-samsung-chips5000k800lm25degree-p-353.html and place them in these three fixtures: http://www.boostled.com/product_p/rlclamp.htm Then when the time comes to get corals, you switch to these three bulbs: http://www.ecoxotic.com/ecoxotic-par38-aquarium-led-lights.html and not have to buy anything else.
  13. I’m curious as to why you chose to have only 4 fish? I’m assuming the pair is perc/ocellaris and the yellow watchman goby isn’t adding much in terms of bioload. You could easily get a couple more small fish. I personally really like the Yellowtail Damsel. They aren’t near as aggressive as other damsels and if added last usually don’t give much trouble. They are super active and very curious fish. The fairy wrasse idea is good too.
  14. I come to you with a problem that seems to plague people to the point of tearing down their tanks. I have Asparagopsis (a red hair algae), and it is pretty well established. I have removed the rocks and scrubbed them to death, but nothing seems to remove it completely. From everything I’ve read, it doesn’t seem to be a simple “Find the source of the pollution problem.” I have seen several people on message boards who are seasoned reefers give up and restart their tanks. Most threads are 3-4 years old, so I’m hoping something may have come on the market that helps with this algae. My water parameters seem pristine, zeros across the board. I am aware there can be nutrients in the water that the algae is eating up, but it’s a 120 gallon monster with 4 small fish and about 100 pounds of live rock. I don’t even feed the tank as they are able to live exclusively on algae and copepods. From what I’ve read, Mexican Turbo Snails, a couple urchins and Foxface/Rabbitfishes are the only things that even attempt to eat this stuff. Every other crab, snail, fish finds it disgusting. I’m getting to the point where I’m a little desperate. I’m even to the point where a chemical solution might be considered. Any comments would be VERY appreciated. I would hate to have to start over completely.
  15. My experience with Xenia is almost identical to this. I have never seen them spread off the rock they were on. I’m not doubting everyone who has had them go wild fire on them, but for me, they have covered the rocks they started on, but that’s it. I also agree with the above posters take on their ability to let me know when water parameters are taking a dive. If they’re opening and closing a lot and look “fluffy” so to speak, I know the water is kosher. If they shrivel down and open and close slowly, I know something evil is afoot.
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