mrbigshot

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About mrbigshot

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    technologically challanged
  • Birthday 05/05/1980

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    cloquet, minnesota

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  1. i would do the rio 1400. i use a 500 gph return on my 40br with a 20l sump and i have it throttled back with a ball valve to keep the noise down. i also have it feeding my gfo / carbon reactor. 350 actual flow once you figure in head loss would be perfect. that would be 35x turnover in your sump. more than that and you wont have enough time for your skimmer to work. depends on the budget. the dc returns have a pretty bad rap. if your heater is in the sump that is a pretty big leap of faith. if my jebao rw 4's fail its no big deal but the return? that's bad.
  2. just for a reference i tested my rodi water that has been sitting for 3 days using an api test kit. if anything just to kelp rule out testing error or kit. i hope you can find the source of your problems, however i wouldn't worry to much about it. even if there was a small amount of ammonia in the rodi water all you are doing is helping build a better biological filter. zoas melt in perfect water and they melt in dirty water (although less in dirty) and many times from light being too strong all the time. sps rtn from aggressive carbon usage, aggressive skimming, or even water changes when the alk is more than a few dkh different than the tank water. i wouldn't blame any loses on ammonia in the water, hell many sps and zoas are hacked from wild colonies and will die no matter what in 6 months just from having a hard time adjusting to aquarium life.
  3. i use the 2 pack clear suction ones for $7 at petco and they never break. you can just rubber band your algae sheets to a piece of rock.
  4. im running blue + coral + blue + blue+ because i'm to lazy to switch it. its to white for me in my other light its blue+ coral+ blue+ actinic i like this much better
  5. i agree on the limited option. i ended up getting a used jbj trinity for my 40br. not the best but at least it has ind. reflectors. i have everything for a 6x36 retro just didn't want to build a canopy. you will be happy with that ati for sure.
  6. not at first. eventually it may be. it will depend on how immaculate you keep the tank
  7. the rock was in established tanks with a bioload and you kept it submerged. you can add fish now, it doesn't take long for the bacteria to stabilize. one fish will be fine for now. a month later add another if need be. the algae is probably diatoms, they show up every time you start a tank. they feed off silicates. this is why you normally see them more on a brand new tank vs a previously run tank. they get nasty for at most 2 weeks and they disappear. usually followed by a green algae. just get a few members of your clean up crew to clean it up. 1 snail per 5g one helmet per 10g usually is what a tank will sustain without them dying off. blue leg hermits are much meaner than the red leg hermits. they both kill snails for there shells, in my experience the blues do it for sport to. if you can get a trochus snail get one, they kick ass. i cant get them around here so i use large ceriths and a couple of turbo snails.
  8. you can use up to 2tsp/gal in your top off container. kalkwasser is for maintaining not increasing. in many instances once the tank is fully stocked with demanding sps you will be dosing 2 part as well. gravity fed is a bad idea depending on how much you trust your float. ive had a few mechanical floats and i didn't like them. seems like they never sealed up very well. i like to use an ato with a aqualifter pump, especially when dosing kalk. i used to use an apex to monitor ph in case of a runaway but never had a problem.
  9. what drivers do you have
  10. make sure you keep tombstones dry. i had some and they shorted out after a few months. i was sitting there and heard them arching and smelled burned wires. a splash shield and the fan from your fixture will work. waterproof ones are not any better imho.
  11. i wouldn't use a purple plus again on anything less than 5 bulbs. on a 4 bulb setup it was to pinkish for me. i do like a coral plus when balanced with an actinic. 2 blue + a coral plus and an actinic would look ok.
  12. slow tissue recession at the base of sps corals is almost always because of shading or lack of light in the area. cyno and algae will grow on the bare skeleton after the tissue is gone.
  13. depends on the halide reflector but absolutely. it can even beat it many times. 10" is really shallow and a good 4 bulb t5 will be pushing almost to much light.
  14. yes but airline probably wont be enough. i use rodi tubing for pumps over 300gph. under 200 gph airline will usually work.after that take a pill bottle and drill a hole in the top and the bottom the same size as the tubing. take a short piece of tubing poke it into the top of the bottle. that makes a silencer and will eliminate the whistling you will hear. by adding the airline to the top you are making a durso.you can also use a valve to limit the amount of air that foes into it to help with the sump noise. i prefer not to do that but others do.
  15. i picked up some 36" reflectors from coralvue for 10 buck each with free shipping. might want to go that way and get some waterproof endcaps and a workhorse ballast from ebay cheap. http://www.coralvue.com/super-lumen-output-t5-reflectors