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HankB

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About HankB

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    We are here to serve man.
  • Birthday 08/20/1953

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Far Far west Chicago 'burbs
  1. On the remote chance that you decide to split the RSM (or if the buyer does not want the RSM hood) let me know as I am looking for a replacement RSM hood. Also check Chicago area Craigslist as there is someone with a listing WTB a Red Sea Max.
  2. Red Sea Max has gone dark

    Probably could if I could figure out which wire do what, but it is not obvious to me and I'd hate to do more damage by connecting something wrong. The timer has (IIRC) 5 or 6 wires coming out of it. Thanks for the suggestion. -hank
  3. Red Sea Max has gone dark

    Thank you. I thought that would be the case and appreciate the confirmation. -hank
  4. Hi all, the lighting in our Red Sea Max has malfunctioned. Both the T5s and the LEDs are dark. I have disassembled the hood and checked for obvious problems and found none. I can measure voltages at various points in the circuitry, but without knowledge of how this is supposed to work, I have no idea how to interpret that information. I have sent an email to Red Sea seeking help, but they keep Monday through Friday office hours. Is anyone aware of a troubleshooting guide for this? How long will corals be OK without light? We have mostly softies and LPS with some purple monti that is trying to take over the tank. (Tank thread will pretty much show what we have, except that things have gotten bigger since I last posted.) I'm guessing a few days would not be a problem. Aside from help from Red Sea, which seems like the best option at the moment, can anyone suggest other options? Things I can think of include? - Going open top and putting a 24" Sunpod or Outer Orbit (or similar) on top. - Upgrading to Nanocustoms HQI retrofit. (Seems like a potential heat risk w/out a chiller.) - contacting Nanocustoms to see if they would sell the OE guts from a retrofit. thanks, hank
  5. Zoo juice in my eye

    Yes, but for uncontroversial information it is a convenient source. Would you accept something from a university as authoritative? Palytoxin is one of the most potent toxins known
  6. Zoo juice in my eye

    From Wikipedia: If something form a zoa squirted in my eye, I'd seek professional help. Best to wear eye protection when messing with palys, zoas and so on. Good luck! -hank
  7. Normandy's 34G RSM

    More important that you keep up with the livestock IMO and if the clam is growing, then things are doing well. I'm officially jealous of your duncan. I got one from our swap last month and it looked good in our QT but shortly after I moved it to my 10g, both heads just dissolved so I'm left staring at the skeleton. -hank
  8. Dying Xenia

    The pH rises overnight due to CO2 buildup (no photosynthesis.) That's why a reverse cycle fuge helps. I would think that anything else that would foster gas exchange would also help. Can you increase ventilation at the surface? Perhaps a small fan? I wonder if a protein skimmer helps stabilize pH due to all of the bubbling. Good luck - we have Xenia and I love the way it gives the tank some motion. It also grows *much* bigger in a populated DT than it does in a QT tank that has no fish. -hank
  9. Frog Spawn Troubles

    #1 More likely the frogspawn will sting the Xenia. Frogspawn can reach out at least several inches. You could wind up with chemical warfare as a result. (I don't know for sure if Xenia does that, but it might be something you should research.) Move the frogspawn if you can. #2 I recall seeing something like that from our frogspawn once. It was tiny flecks of green in the tank that were entire tentacles that had shrunk and separated from the head. I don't recall what caused that and haven't seen it repeat. I could easily believe that the stinging part of the tentacle was still functional and could sting other corals. I'm not too sure what to suggest for that. Perhaps an iodine dip. If the Ric continues to decline, I see little risk in trying that. HTH, hank
  10. Viper 150 W too much for 12g AP?

    If heat is an issue, you can get a lot of cooling with a small fan. That cools by evaporation so you will need to be diligent about top ups. This could be an issue when you head home for the weekend, so you might need to get some kind of ATO to deal with that. You also need to think in general about how to care for the tank during breaks if you plan to head home or elsewhere. A chiller is required in a situation where humidity is high or the tank cover is tight, reducing evaporative cooling. FWIW, I have a 2-fan AZOO fan on a 10g AIO and it can overrun a 50w heater this time of year. But I need that because the tank is in a sunny window which also adds to the heating problem. HTH, hank
  11. lost my basking coral

    Ahhh... I see. Spelled Basking Coral but pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove. It is described as hardy and yet, is known to ship poorly and can die unexpectedly for no apparent reason. Yet, when it does well, it can grow so fast it can become a nuisance. I keep it on a loose piece of LR so that I can easily remove and trim to keep it under control. Because it grows so fast, you can usually find someone local who will be willing to give you some. If you wish to give it another try, I suggest you do that. You also solve the shipping problem that way. Lastly, it is the subject of this month's photo contest so if you are further interested, check that out. HTH, hank
  12. Quarantine Tank - 5 Gallon Cool?

    I would (and do) use a 10g if you can fit the extra space. I only have about 5-6 gallons in ours to keep water level below the light. I use a bubble driven foam filter and the bubbles result in splashing on the light otherwise. It may not be an issue with an HOB which IMO should work fine. I would leave the sponge in the main tank filter at least several weeks. I tried doing this by taking some floss out of the main tank (which was not that old) and the detritus in that was enough to result in nitrite readings. Once in a while when you do water changes on the main tank, rinse the sponge out in the old tank water to remove excess detritus. That should keep it from becoming a nitrate factory w/out removing all of the beneficial bacteria. -hank
  13. No, the calibration fluid should calibrate to something about 1.025. I'll search and update - just wanted to post before the OP screwed up his instrument trying to follow your directions. Edit: Thread here with more information than you need to know. Short answer: Calibrate to 1.0259 using Pinpoint 53.0 µS Calibration/Reference Fluid fluid. HTH, hank
  14. Today is a sad day.

    I didn't realize he was still in there. Stupidity on my part.
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