Urchinhead

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About Urchinhead

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  1. Ideally I would recommend returning it if possible. If not and you want to make a go of it then you need to read up on care quick. Nem's will move if they don't like their spot and can easily get sucked into a powerhead or overflow. It will kill them and can easily crash your tank. They also can sting or be stung by corals. If you like where the nem has put itself and want to try to keep it there you will need to feed it. Get a bag of frozen silversides. Cut one into a 1/3-1/2" sized pieces. Start with one piece. Defrost it in a cup of tank water. Use tongs to place it in the tentacles. Observe to make sure it isn't spit out. Feed daily or every other day. Monitor water parameters and plan on an aggressive 10% water change schedule. This will I'll be your best bet keeping it where it is.
  2. Hey Weetie. You likely don't remember me as it's been literally years. Oddly I felt compelled to log in here and see what's up. Lo and behold the second post I see is yours! I have been going back and forth on starting up a tank again but couldn't bring myself to. I like your very "zen" approach to your project and want to follow along. Perhaps GLU is behind it. It reminds me of a bit of simple but apropos philosophical three liner... Do not walk in front of me, I will not follow Do do not walk behind me, I will not lead Please walk beside me and be my friend so we can both learn what we can become UH
  3. As long as your calcium and calcium carbonate values are stable and appropriate bleaching can be too much light. Browning can be a too much nutrient problem or again too much light. You may have overwhelmed your birdsnest. When adding strong lighting like an AI it's best to ramp the power up slowly over weeks and for new coral start it at the very bottom of the tank possibly even under some shade and slowly move it up to where you want it. Based on your description it sounds like you overwhelmed the SPS with light.
  4. Pull the carbon. It is used to pull DOC's (dissolved organic compounds) out of the water and keep the water clear looking. Since you shouldn't have any DOC's in the water it's not doing anything for you. Wait to setup the skimmer since you want the tank to cycle first and again it's for pulling DOC's out of the water so again not doing anything for you yet. Check on the lights. If you want to have corals you need to make sure they are the right lights. That may be a planted tank light or just a light up the tank with nice color light. See if you can convert one of the back chambers to a small refugium that will hold cheato or other large algae. It will help keep bad algae from growing.
  5. Glad to hear they are doing well. When they are a bit more recovered get some Coral Frenzy pellets. Soak them in water first or they will float and the fish will nab them. Use a pipette to target feed each head. Feed a few pellets to each head every other day. Then get ready to hate them because you will have such a huge colony that it's going to be a major pain keeping it fed.
  6. Yep. The angel is what did it. If you feed those acan heads 3-4 times a week you should get 2-3 heads growing a month. I would use Salifert pellets to feed mine. They would grow like weeds. So much so I had to stop feeding.
  7. Rarely are there "good" crabs in my mind. The only "good" crabs in my book are a Acropora crab or a Pom Pom crab. Everything else needs to go before it kills something I actually wanted in my tank. Based on that pincer and the size of the arm it's not a good crab and should go away.
  8. Over time and as a part of the cycle of the tank your "normal rock/sand" will become "live" as bacterium build up on it. The reason to use "live" rock is that it already comes with said bacteria and thus somewhat jump starts the cycle process. It can also come with helpful and unwanted hitchhikers including "bad" algae, crabs, worms, and so on. On the plus side I have had a Linkia star hitchhike in. I had to give it away because the size tank I had wouldn't support it and it would have died. However that nice find was far outweighed by the nasty things that came in. For example a gorilla crab that was a complete PITA to get out and cost me a couple of fish. I knew a guy who got a octopus as a hitchhiker. Not fun since it can and will eat your fish. I soak my rock in a muriatic acid and RODI water solution to burn off phosphates that may be on the rock, then give it a long iodine bath, then give it several rinses and soak it again in RODI water to make sure everything that could go in the tank is not going in the tank. If I need to "seed" it I will toss it in a bucket with my own salt water that I made, a heater, and a small pump to move water a bit. I then add a piece of frozen shrimp or the like in to kick off a cycle then monitor the parameters until I am where I want to be. At that point it goes in the tank. My bottom line: Nothing goes in a tank of mine if I didn't personally choose to put it there. That way I get no surprises.
  9. If you have corals dying you are likely out of wack with one or more parameters and also possibly having swings in the tank. If you do not test you don't know what's going on in the tank. And not dosing with a fair amount of coral proportional to the size of the tank and the amount/frequency of the water changes is also not advised. So it would be better if you did test. This includes salinity. And then dose accordingly.
  10. You can buy a screen making kit at Home Depot, Menards, etc. You can also get some nylon 1/4" bird netting from your local nursery. You then use the screen kit rails and bend them or segment them so they mold somewhat around your bow front. You also do 90* angles for your equipment if any. It doesn't look too bad and it will keep fish in for sure while still allowing good gas exchange. This is what I did on all my rimless tanks. It kept the bloody Wrasse in the tank while still letting me keep the "rimless" look I wanted.
  11. 6 bulb ATI T5 is a very good choice for a SPS dominant tank. If, as MasterBuilder said, the tank is long enough. I ran the 6 bulb 36" and both coloration and growth were crazy good with it.
  12. Yep. Nice Monti. Now is the time to really keep on top of your testing. From my own experiences with Monti's they can and will suck your tank dry of CaCO3 (Calcium Carbonate) and CA (Calcium). Here is an example of one of my very old ones: I was averaging about 120 ml of CaCO3 and CA per day because of this guy and others in a small tank.
  13. Did you QT the new clown prior to adding to the display tank? Was the new clown a wild caught or tank raised? If the answer is no and/or wild caught you may have introduced a parasite or other pathogen into the tank that is clown specific like Brooklynellosis aka Brook which will wipe out a clown very very fast.
  14. 10x is a good number.