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About BruiseAndy

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    Nano Reefer
  • Birthday 03/03/1978

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  1. Sounds good. I'd suggest maybe some clear PVC and making a spray bar for the return
  2. AHSupply are good guys they can probably answer this question better. If the light sockets and wattages are the same I'd say it would swap right out.
  3. It's a modified durso that a guy named stockman came up with. A saleen mustang is still a mustang just modified.
  4. Check that out make a durso standpipe.
  5. very nice
  6. Been running mine for 3 months with no fires
  7. I found that none of the GE ballasts I bought at HD would fire my coralife T-12s so i ended up buying the T8 ballast and it fired em up perfectly. Can't really explain it but now they are running at 64 watts (overdriven) a piece and look awesome.
  8. I only have the return in mine but you are right on track with just getting a couple pieces of 1/4" and welding them together. As far as supply for the tank if youre redoing it all why not make a spray bar with clear acrylic tubing? Use the compact version of the durso located here that way you can keep overflow chamber size to a minimum. I think the structural integrity would be fine just keep it about 2" from each side. You could probably ask a local glass shop about it just to make sure. Good size for what you have planned just make sure it can accomodate the stand pipe before you build it. Awesome idea just make sure to take pics and post them
  9. Blah, I didnt notch anything just get the heighth correct and it will flow over the tope. I put some eggcrate on the top though so critters wouldnt fall over. If you do this again look for scrap pieces of acrylic laying around the glass shop or lowes or HD and make the asst managaer a deal. Thats what I did it only ran me $2. I dont know if youve seen the thread I made but I did a step by step of the overflow there
  10. Bingo exactly what i use.
  11. Just in case you might not know the reason you don't need special paint is because the outside of the glass. Sorry if that seems obvious I was just trying to read into your question a little more there.
  12. Got a food safe paint from a cabinet make friend of mine not sure what its called he mixed it and put it in a can. Bead of silicone then place connector then another bead of silicone. If you can't fine the paint just use dark smoked acrylic.
  13. I tried the slits on my old one but they didnt allow for enough flow. With the top of the plexi only .5" below the water line you can barely see the egg crate and with my hood you can't see it at all.
  14. Now its time for my DIY bulkhead. All I used were two 1" couplers and the short piece of PVC. I PVC glued one side then applied some silicone to the tank and fitting the pressed it in there and smoothed out the silicone till it squished out the other side of the tank. Then I got the other coupler and put it on the pipe that was now poking through on the inside of the tank and siliconed that into place. Let it sit for a day as this is the part that you do not want leaking. Now on to the last part carefully insert the standpipe into the bulkhead you have made. Make sure to hold the bottom part under the glass tight so it does not wobble. If you wobble it on too far of an angle you're gonna break your glass. Now silicone your corner overflow into place and you're done. Took me all of 1 hours work and about $20. Parts list Tools bits: Dremel part 7144 Corner overflow: plexi two pieces: height of tank - 3/8" X 3.5" Egg crate : 1" X 7" cut to fit inside overflow Weldon3 : enough to do the job (hardly any) Aquarium safe silicone Durso standpipe: Go here much better job of explaining it than I can. Bulkhead: Short piece of PVC 2, 1" couplers Oh yea the finished product: I'll post more pics up and running in a while