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Deano

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About Deano

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    The 3 eyed monster "RIP"

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    The Land of Oz
  1. WTB: ATO for Biocube

    I have one. This came out of my now shut down BC29. The float bracket slips over the wall between 2&3 chambers. Floats go into chamber 2. It is a Autotopoff.com low voltage system. This saves your float switches from havIng high voltage going through them eliminating float switch burnout. I will sale the whole system with the Aqua lifter pump. All you will need is a container to hold your TO water. $55 shipping included. PayPal accepted. PM if you are interested.
  2. Do I need to support the overflow pipes?

    Prudent! Sure they will harmless hang there for years. But the one time you forget those are only attached to a piece of 1/4" glass and you slid or move something resulting in bumping, twist or pulling the drain pipes you end up with this. My 40b after I had to move the tank to fix an electrical issue. While I was sliding it back into position I pushed it to far and the ball value hit the wall putting pressure on the bulkhead. Luckily the tank was partially drained and Petco had their $1 a gallon sale going on. I was back up and running in 24hrs.
  3. Myster's 40b SPS Dominate (Some STN)

    Knowing is a big part of the battle. Just remember when you are messing with those down tubes be mindful of any twisting or pulling. You still can use flex tubing. If you cut your PVC at about where I drew the red line in the previous pic. Move your flow valve up there and then slide on the flex tubing I showed you. This will reduce the chance of you putting any pressure on the down pipes and breaking the tank. You understand that the longer the stiff PVC pipe is the more leverage you will have at the bottom so with all that leverage it increases your chance of breaking the tank then if you have a short amount of PVC coming out the back of the tank and then flex from there. I don't know if you have kids but with an open stand like yours the down pipes are exposed. If no one messes with them you will be ok. The clamps will isolate any pulling or twisting at the stand and not at the glass. As fare as what it takes to break a tank It all depends on where your leveraging the down tubes and I am no engineer so I couldn't tell you how much force it would take but with the 20gal and my 40gal I broke it wasn't much. Remember these tanks are only 1/4" glass. They are not like a big tank with twice as thick of glass. MY 40B was broke sliding it back on the stand an up to the wall. My down tubes are setup very similar to yours with the exception I use the flex tube just as I describe to you above. So I have just an elbow on the un-valve side and flex tube down and I have a valve on the other side and then flex tube down. The side I broke was the side with the valve on it. That is because when I pushed the tank against the wall the valve touched the wall putting pressure on the tank glass and breaking it.
  4. Myster's 40b SPS Dominate (Some STN)

    Also I use this tubing from Lowes for the drains. Much more flexible so if you need to move it in your sump you are not fighting a ridged installation. Will slid right on your pvc. http://www.lowes.com/pd_645906-72906-BC2458+L___?productId=50381022&pl=1&Ntt=washer+drain+tubeing
  5. Myster's 40b SPS Dominate (Some STN)

    Luckily I had drained the tank down about 60% to move it so it wasn't full. I also have tile flooring so what water that got on the floor was not big deal. I would try and make some kind of cradle for the pvc and mounted to the metal stand. As long as no one bumps or try's to pull, push or twist the drain tubes it will be fine but things happen. I am sure that you can buy pvc hangers. I would check out your home store pvc department. I have a wood stand I used a hole saw and drilled a 2" hole in a piece of hard wood cut it in half sealed it, drilled two holes in it. Homemade hose clamp. Not sure where my 40b build is at it may be on RC. Anyway her are some picks of my tank.
  6. Myster's 40b SPS Dominate (Some STN)

    Oh! Also make sure your sump can hold your bulkheads water volume if your system shuts down. Looks like it will but better safe when you are there then not. Paying close attention to your return line. If the system powers down and the return line is lower in the tank it will start a syphon and you could end up with more water in your sump then expected. Nice setup!
  7. Myster's 40b SPS Dominate (Some STN)

    I strongly encourage you support your tanks drain tubing to the stand. If you bump it or twist it low at the sump you have a lot of leverage and your tank could end up like mine did. I had no issues for 1 year until just few weeks ago when I had a electrical issue and I had to move the tank. When I moved it back in place this is what I ended up with. Luckily Petco had the $1 gallon sale and I was back up and running in 24 hrs. I have one of those Red Sea skimmers on my 135gal reef tank and it works just fine. Plenty of skimmer for your tank. It's been along time since I have been online but I think I have my 40 b build at the end of my 20 long build when I switched everything over to the 40b. I did that when I broke the 20 long doing the same thing moving it. I was removing the plumbing and twisted it resulting in pressure being put on the glass and busted it.
  8. LED's for 40 gallon breeder

    My 40b with a Evergrow light. The light is 10.5" over the water. There is light drop of at both ends of the tank with lights turned down but turn them to full power there is plenty of light at both ends. This picture is 25% blue and 10% whites. 100% on both
  9. 40 Breeder Project

    I am using an external very old school Little Giant pump on my 55g quaratine tank. I also have a Fluvel Sea SP2 that I like alot I use for my water changing station. That said I have a 40b that I am running a Mag 7 in sump for my return, which can de run externally. I am using a Herbie overflow dual 1" drains with 1/2 return. Drains can handle the MAG 7 unrestricted with no problems. The thing is with a UV you will want to run a tee off the return to the UV since the flow directy from the return pump will have way to much flow through the UV. UVs need low flow to keep the water in them longer to kill the nasties going through them. Check the flow rate for ghe UV unit you are considering.
  10. overheating problems...

    This is pretty commen for the BC29. This is a mod I did to mine years ago. The reason I bought my BC29 was the top. In the end I gave up and went topless.
  11. Pease help my rock anemone!

    On a side note about the Purple sea whip Gorgonian. These are ok in a aquarium since they do rely on zooxanthellate nutrition but will feed as well. But watch out for other Gorgonian's some or strictly filter feeders and will parish in most aquariums.
  12. Pease help my rock anemone!

    Bleached is not good but if the nem gets the right light and will eat it will recover. I would give it a day or 2 and once it starts opening up a bit try and feed it some small meaty type foods. Mysis Shrimp or small pieces of krill. Mine will happily eat Formula 2 pellets. That will be fine.
  13. Pease help my rock anemone!

    Agree with the previous post. It all depends on how long you have had it. If it has been a day or 2 I would not be concerned. If it was dying you could tell. Rock Nems are pretty tough and I would not be to concerned if it is not disintegrating. I have had one since 2006 it has battled other corals with minimal damage and recovered
  14. Wrasse Aggression

    I have always like 6 line wrasses but my experience with them is they are total a$$es. Take it back. Paired clowns are pretty territorial and 6 lines are relentless if they thing they own the tank. The battle will end ugly. I have a 20l my self and the truth is any wrasse, Fairy wrasses included will out grow a 20l. But if you want to try a wrasse look at a Filament fin wrasse. They seem to have very good personalities. I have had 2 filament fins the 1st one went carpet surfing and the second died mysteriously. I recently replaced it with a small McCosker's. I know Liveaquaria says this fish is best in a 50 gal tank, but I rarely see these at my LFS and I could not resist it. Besides I have a 135g tank I can move it to if need be. Probably better suited for a 20 l would be either a Tanaka's Pygmy Wrasse or White Banded Possum Wrasse. Some other nice additions would be a goby or Blenny. I recently got a Tail Spot Blenny and like it allot. Another active fish would be a Pygmy angel. I have a Cherub, note they do nip corals.
  15. Good Auto Top Off ?

    Sorry didn't say or suggested you put it together incorrectly only stated that if you do not use autotopoffs optional low voltage relay you will be running 120v through the switch (s). When I purchased my autotopoff kit it was sold without the low voltage relay. If that has not changed I recommend anyone buying a autotopoff kit to get their optional low voltage relay kit or confirm with them they are now running a low voltage relay switched system. Running 120v through the switches will cause them to fail prematurely. Another concern I have is running 120v into my tank. I know that someone will jump on this and say that we put heaters, power heads and other things into our tanks that run 120v but those are all sealed with heavily insulated wiring. Something about 2 small wires running 120v through a poorly sealed foam switch scares me. This is why I recommend the aquahub switch kit. It uses a low DC voltage relay and double floats for redundant back up shut off. Admittedly I have never used an optical water switch but I can imagine things that could cause them to fail as well. I do own and use a Specturapure automatic shut off system on my RO system that uses their pressure shut off switch and I can tell you that thing can and does easily fail. That is why what ever system you use you should always run a redundant back up shut off switch.
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