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About 121a

  • Rank
    Nano Reefer
  • Birthday 05/11/1992

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  • Location
    Fox Lake,IL
  1. A few updates, tank is going well. Lost one monti suddenly. Just bleached out. Other SPS appear to be doing ok. I have purchased an calibrated a Jebao DP-4. I will be dosing sodium bicarbonate in order to keep alk stable. I took base line readings yesterday and should have a good idea come Friday how much alk is being consumed. Ca and Mg appear to be fine, if not high. Those should be maintained through water changes. We did add an additional acan to our garden and a birds nest coral. Our other addition was a Sexy Shrimp (names JT). Considering adding a skimmer and some film and bubbles have been present but have not decided on that yet.
  2. Thank You!!! Minor Updates Yogi the yellow clown goby went missing for a few days. He appears to have gotten sucked into the back part of the tank. Luckily we found him alive and well, took about 15 minutes to get him out but he is back in the main display now, nice and happy Alk is getting difficult to maintain, definitely need to be dosing to keep it above 8.0. I am using about 7.5 - 10ml of Two Little Fishies Part B per day. Ca seems to be OK and Mg is actually elevated Things are growing but I am still having a little trouble maintaining SPS coloration Started dosing phyto and upped the feedings of coral and fish Might look into a more suitable method to keep Alk stable, possibly looking into a Jebao dosing pump.
  3. I switched to it from Reef Crystals. It mixes really well. Just be sure to test for salinity after 100% clear, sounds common sense but... I haven’t tested it but everything looks hapoy in my tank. I started with the small bag to test it and will probably get the bucket.
  4. It is a bit on the low side. Typically pH will fluctuate throughout the day. I think mine starts at about 8.0 and gets up to 8.2. In new tanks, lower pH is fairly common and nothing to really worry about. Alk is definitely more of focal point, 8.5 is pretty good, I think 8-12 is pretty standard. As long as your Alk stays fairly consistent, as your tank matures, the pH should come up. Having a refugium helps mitigate the pH swings if you run the light over the fuge opposite of your main tank lighting. Just curious but what kind of tank is it and what water flow do you have?
  5. Great reminder and a bunch of helpful tips! For those that don’t have someone home during the day, a computer battery backup system works well. I invested in one and it can power my return pump for about 4 hours in the vent of a power outage. I have several ways of determining if my power is out and when it comes back on. Usually it doesnt last for more than a few hours so the battery backup is more than sufficient.
  6. Here is an update, finally. The CPR fuge is up and running. Some additions as of yesterday. https://flic.kr/p/2cVw2WN IMG_9241 All the fish in one shot! CPR Aqua Fuge Top Down
  7. It seems like the staples are carbon, GFO, and Purgien. I have always ran a form of carbon and almost always Purigen. I am also currently running a 20 gallon with (4) fish and a cleaner shrimp so my bioload is somewhat higher. The Purigen is pretty cheap, you can buy a 100ml bag for about $9 and it is good for 100 gallons (10ml per 10 gallons). I bought one bag, cut it open, and poured some into a smaller bag and put it in the reactor. You also get people who run nothing and have great success. I prefer to run at least carbon and Purigen as it reduces the impact of any contaminants that may enter the tank. In our nanos even the smallest of contaminants can cause major issues.
  8. I just ditched ChemiPure Elite for a carbon from Marineland. The carbon is not the pellet type and is more like chips. I run it in an IM Desktop Media Reactor. I have noticed no ill affects from the switch. I also run Purigen in the reactor. Everything appears happy and the water is very clear. I did look into ROX 0.8 but its potency (and price) made me shy away.
  9. Over the weekend we stopped at our favorite LFS and picked up another Onyx Clown for Axle. Been in for 48 hours and so far so good. Axle isn't showing any aggression towards his new mate. Hoping it stays that way. The new clown in another tank with another onyx at the store so hoping all remains well. I also bought some LR rubble and have a bucket of sand 'cycling' with the rubble, old tank water, sand, chaeto, and moss algae. Not expecting much of a cycle considering the sand was dry but rather have it do it in a bucket than affect the tank itself. Also debating creating a larger fuge light. My current light grows chaeto like a mofo so if anything, I would probably just duplicate it. I also recently added a Kenya Tree but it started dropping arms and then wilted away. I know they can be strange corals but this definitely was the coral dying off. Luckily though one of the arms it dropped ended up affixing itself to a rock front and center. That piece seems to be doing well. Not sure what caused the main colony to die off. All parameters are in check. Also, if anyone has any ideas or suggestions, my current SPS corals, three montis and two stylos have full polyp extension but are slowly fading and some are even turning white. The monti on the top left of the tank is growing and the growth is white but the polyps are remaining their natural yellow. Not RTN or anything. Parameters of last check are NH3 - 0 Nitrite - 0 Nitrate - 0 to 1 PH- 8.12 Alk - 10 Phosphorus - 5ppb Temp - 78.5 Salinity - 1.024 Ca and Mg not tested, but Ca has consistently been 450+ and 1400 for Mg.
  10. Of course! I have a bucket of sand currently that dried out, I'm debating using tank water from a water change to get the sand seeded a bit before starting the fuge. I also need some LR rubble to stock the fuge with. Might be two weeks or so. I have an iPhone and while the camera is spectacular for normal lighting conditions, it is not great for the tank. I am looking into getting a cheap digital camera. I frequent estate sales and they can often be had for pretty cheap. Thank you! The YCG named Yogi, has adjusted great! He is usually always out or visible. We had some issues with him eating mysis shrimp so we switched to brine and he is loving it! Definitely a great addition to the tank overall.
  11. I pulled the trigger on the IM Desktop Reactor and I am running Purigen and Activated Carbon. I have ditched the Chemipure Elite for now. Also Aqua Cave had a 10% off sale on most everything so I got the Aqua Fuge 2 from them, plus I had like $45 in rewards so my cost was only about $75. It actually fits really well and should help clean up the rear of the Fusion and also add water volume. The intake pump will be located in the second chamber from the right and the output of the unit will be into the second chamber on the left. The thought is that the water will be dumped into one area and have very little chance of being 'recycled' through the fuge. I have to make some saltwater and plan to have the fuge up and going this weekend.
  12. Minor update Added a variety of new zoanthids, a kenya tree, another monti, and a stylo. All seems to be doing well. My API test kit keeps registering between 0-.1 Ammonia. Not sure if it is accurate or not. I noticed that the kit tests for NH3 and NH4, from what I have read NH3 is what we need to be worried about. I ordered a new test kit for just NH3. Everything looks healthy though so I am not too concerned. Some upcoming changes include: -IM Desktop Reactor: I have a bag of ChemiPure Elite and Purigen but I don't think they are receiving adequate flow through the media. The reactor will help ensure proper flow through the media -CPR AquaFuge 2: Wanted to get some thoughts on this. I have an AC Fuge and its doing well but I want to add more water volume. The CPR fuge adds 2.5gal of water to the system. My thought would be the pump can sit in the right intake chamber and the fuge return can dump into the return pump chamber. I'm not 100% on it yet but I think it will also clean up the rear chambers a bit. The reason I want to add more water to the system is we would like to add one more clownfish bringing our total fish count to 4. Granted the YCG probably counts as like .5 of a fish. Need to get more pictures posted as the tank is looking pretty good! Thoughts on the CPR fuge are welcome.
  13. In the last few years, I have used Jabeo. For their price, you really cannot beat them. I have the TW-10 (or similar, they change model numbers frequently) on my 20G. Its on the lowest flow setting on random mode and it is a great little pump. It is also small so two of them would easily fit in a 29G. I had one of the first Vortech MP10s and it was nice a pump but their first gen was noisy. If I am paying $250+ for a pump, it should be silent. I'm sure they have fixed this issue since but $250 is a lot of coral...
  14. Having started this hobby with a 75 gallon tank and a canister filter, my vote is for sump. 10 gallons is not much though, might want to consider 20 gallons. Just a thought.
  15. I have the Fusion 20 as well. I have had my display water rise because of an overflow blockage/restriction. If you have your ATO sensor in the pump chamber, then if there is any blockage or flow restriction from the overflows, it will cause the water level in the tank to rise and DROP in the return pump chamber. This would then activate your ATO adding water to the system. The added water may cause enough pressure in the display tank to force past the restriction or blockage. This then could create a cycle of continually adding water, over coming the blockage, and eventually over flowing the tank. This is also true if your ATO is above any of the baffles. I have my ATO set to just above the baffle that leads into the return pump chamber. I wanted a higher water level to cut down on noise from my AC50 refugium. I have recently had an issue where my circ pump would cause water to 'splash' out the top. This was only due to clogged up filter floss. I just replaced it and haven't had the issue.