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About 121a

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    Nano Reefer
  • Birthday 05/11/1992

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    Fox Lake,IL

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  1. 121a

    Best nano wave maker?

    In the last few years, I have used Jabeo. For their price, you really cannot beat them. I have the TW-10 (or similar, they change model numbers frequently) on my 20G. Its on the lowest flow setting on random mode and it is a great little pump. It is also small so two of them would easily fit in a 29G. I had one of the first Vortech MP10s and it was nice a pump but their first gen was noisy. If I am paying $250+ for a pump, it should be silent. I'm sure they have fixed this issue since but $250 is a lot of coral...
  2. Having started this hobby with a 75 gallon tank and a canister filter, my vote is for sump. 10 gallons is not much though, might want to consider 20 gallons. Just a thought.
  3. 121a

    Fusion 20 Overfilling Issues

    I have the Fusion 20 as well. I have had my display water rise because of an overflow blockage/restriction. If you have your ATO sensor in the pump chamber, then if there is any blockage or flow restriction from the overflows, it will cause the water level in the tank to rise and DROP in the return pump chamber. This would then activate your ATO adding water to the system. The added water may cause enough pressure in the display tank to force past the restriction or blockage. This then could create a cycle of continually adding water, over coming the blockage, and eventually over flowing the tank. This is also true if your ATO is above any of the baffles. I have my ATO set to just above the baffle that leads into the return pump chamber. I wanted a higher water level to cut down on noise from my AC50 refugium. I have recently had an issue where my circ pump would cause water to 'splash' out the top. This was only due to clogged up filter floss. I just replaced it and haven't had the issue.
  4. 121a

    Why Would an Ocellaris Clownfish Be Hiding

    I will second that clowns do weird things. After my tank cycled I added an Onyx Clown. All my previous clowns would be front and center in the tank, play in the flow, and just be personable. When I added this clown, all he did was stick to one side of the tank and 'host' the clamp for the light (it sits just under the water level). He did this for about 4-5 weeks and finally started to come out and be social.
  5. 121a

    Anyone use Hanna calcium checker?

    I use it and find it consistent. I was dosing a two part product and it registered the rise in calcium. I have no reason to doubt that it isn't accurate. I tested today as I am fine tuning my kalk ato setup and it was sitting at over 500ppm. It was around that last I tested and though I have some monti in the tank, as well as some calcium dependent macro algae. I was hoping to see a decline but it hasn't. Kalk drip must be keeping up with the tanks needs. A couple items to point out with the Ca checker. You have to be using distilled or RO/DI water (ideally you should know that the water is 0 ppm). In order to get an accurate sample of water from the tank, i pump the syringe in the tank a few times to clear out any old water. You have to be sure to get all the reagent powder in the sample container. Its harder than it sounds and I am sure it can easily cause a 40ppm variance. I wish they would take a page from Saliferts book and have a jar of reagent powder with a small scooper spoon.
  6. I did see the orange filter, might give that a go. I did try the app, it is so so. I think I need to spend more time with adjusting the lights. I think I will try the 100% White and 50% RB.
  7. Update, got some new stock including a yellow clown goby, frag of Utter Chaos, a torch, and some rics. Tank is going really well, algae is getting under control. I have also glued down more zoanthids. I am hoping to make an exotic zoa rock (this rock is on the left of the two larger colonies). It is a small rock that can be easily removed to glue new frags to. I have never known gluing zoas was so easy. Just be sure to wear safety glasses just in case! I have also adjusted the lighting schedule and removed the optics on two of the white LEDs. There was too much white in the center of the unit and the new setup looks awesome...in person. Stupid phone cameras suck with LEDs. Thinking of getting a used DSLR if anyone has any suggestions (I am partial to Nikon). A small side note, I did catch four nudis. I think they were responsible for agitating my zoas. 10/7/18 Additions Utter Chaos Rics YCG FTS
  8. 121a

    Smallest pump?

    I bought the 265GPH variety of this PUMP. The 160gph is 2.5"x1.75"x2". For $8 its worth a try. I use the 265gph one to do water changes with, it is quite and I like the 5/16" ID tubing option.
  9. 121a

    Chi's IM20 NUVO Fusion Build

    Wow! Looks awesome, fits right in with the rest of the furniture! I love my IM 20gal. Such a nice tank, tons of optional accessories and room to in the rear chambers. I can’t wait to see how your tank progresses, good luck!
  10. 121a

    ATO with toms aqua lifter

    I just got this pump for mixing SW and doing water changes. Pump The max head is 51" but I'm not sure if that is with 5/16" ID tubing or 1/2" ID tubing (or if it matters). I bought it specifically because of the 5/16" connection. I wanted a smaller tube size in order to siphon water out from the tank slower than the 3/4" ID tubing I was using. Plus it is much easier to work with.
  11. I will have to try that. I cut my blues down pretty significantly in favor of more white overall. I think my current setting is 0,0,50,20,30,75. With the frosted lenses, the white really diffuses better with the blues. Once the algae gets under control, and it pretty much is at this point, I may add in a bit of red and green. I know have some macros in the display that would benefit from the red and green LEDs. Just curious, why are you going to add the T5s? I can only assume it is for either coloration purposes and/or additional PAR for growth. I’ve done halide and t5 hybrids in the past (250W halide with 4x24w T5s. Color was nice but man was it a ton of light. This was on my prized 27gal nano.
  12. Totally! Cole, my mithrax crab, immediately went to town on the hair alage. I had a zoa colony that had two tufts of alage building up, next morning it was all cleared. Do you mind sharing? I like our current scheme but its fun to mess around with the settings. I just wish the controller allowed to store more than one custom schedule. Awesome! I actually got my RODI off of eBay. I bought from LiquaGen. Its a six stage unit. My incoming water is about 470, after ro its about 8, after di, 0. My only complaint is with the seller. Our unit had zero packing material to protect it. I got the unit and one of the canisters was shattered. Seller was prompt and sent out a new canister. Oddly enough, the replacement canister had zero packing material to protect it, though it made it safely. The unit itself is well built and I have no complaints about its functionality.
  13. 121a

    Can you have a favorite snail?

    It has a nice shell! You can certainly have a favorite snail, I have one that has a small, single, zoa on its shell. By far the coolest snail in my tank!
  14. Minor update The additional CUC members from KP Aquatics made it in safely after being sent to the wrong post office during shipping, causing a day delay in delivery. The order included small and larger cerith snails, red mithrax crab, some halimeda, and toadstool moss algae for the display. Hoping to take a more natural approach to phosphate control plus the algae looks nice and adds a more natural element to the tank. I soaked it in RO/DI for about a week. I bought it from Aqua Cave. I'm starting to think the algae growth was the main result of the red and green LEDs and their intensity that I had them set at. Regarding the phosphate, when I got my Phosphorus ULR checker a few weeks back I tested and got 33ppb, or 0.1ppm. Not horrible by any means. Last I tested it was 1ppb, or .003ppm. The growth has all but stopped and my additional CUC members are making quick work of the hair algae. A second contributing factor was a lack of flow. Only the left of the tank has the algae problem, I have since re-positioned my circulation pump and changed to a more constant mode (I was using the wave function but have since switched a random flow pattern). So to combat this bloom of algae, I cut out the red/green leds from my current light schedule, added a small amount of Seachem Phosgaurd, and added some additional CUC members.
  15. I'm not sure why the Reef Breeders Photon V2+ lights get a bad rep, or don't get used. We have the 16" over my IM 20 and we love it. I cut down on the 'disco ball' effect by using some cheap frosted film vinyl and covered the optics. This helped blend the colors and really cut down on the disco ball effect. I have some photos of the modification in my tank journal. Of course, it is hard to get a photo showing the difference (only have my smart phone camera). Not to mention their quality and support is phenomenal.