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About Professor

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    Nano Reefer

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  • Location
    Southern Maryland
  1. Anemones are not lightening quick ninjas that can jump from place to place. They need time to move and settle. If it is floating around the tank it will never get the opportunity to settle and you risk it getting sucked into a pump or filter intake which usually results in anemone frappe and a crashed tank. Turn the pumps off and place back where you want it. Let it sit about an hour and then start turning pumps back on and watch it closely for a while. Remember that where you want the anemone to live is not necessarily where he wants to live. If it is unhappy there it will move. LTAs like a deep sand bed to bury their foot in so if you are trying to get it to live on your rock work that is less than ideal for it. When you place it use your fingers to dig a depression in your sand bed down to the glass and gently put the anemones foot in the depression. Hopefully it will attach to the glass. When it does gently brush the sand back into the depression around it's column. Anemones will move if unhappy until they find a place they like. If that doesnt happen then generally the poor creature is doomed. Once it attaches somewhere leave it alone and do not try to move it. What are your tank parameters and lighting? Got any pics?
  2. Thanks guys! Thanks Eric. Glad to hear that you got your build done. I am sure it is going to awesome! I will be definitely trying again and have hit the drawing board sketching out designs already.
  3. Well, I am sorry to say that this tank has crashed. The front pane of glass cracked over Christmas and drained 2/3's of the water out. What water was left got down to 62 degrees since the auto shutoff on the heater kicked in. Discovered it the day after Christmas and did not look in on the tank on Christmas day. On Christmas eve it was fine. Not sure what precipitated the cracking. I have moved all the frags that look like they may survive into my 40br to try and rehab them although the ones higher on the rock wall were shot. I am pretty pissed about this as everything was starting to grow in and look nice. Was planning a light upgrade as I was not particularly happy with the Ecoxotic fixture. Then poof, all gone. I tried to salvage the rock wall but everything is so well built and tied together that it is almost impossible to get out without destroying it. So I am back to square one on the rock wall concept, lost a bunch of frags and in general am very cranky. I am done with the smaller AGA tanks, I have had nothing but problems in the 5.5 gal sizes and smaller. I think I am going to set up my old 6gal NC or build a custom Pico out of 1/4" glass. Happy New Year.
  4. ^ Jack@SS! Very helpful. Maybe correct spelling, punctuation and capitalization would make you easier to understand. Are you using tap water or RO? You could have high phosphates which a lot of corals are sensitive to. It seems odd to me that you do not have pods or other cryptic life in the the tank after having it set up for that period of time. The fact you are getting diatoms indicates to me that you may still be having some type of cycle even though your tests are reading ok. Also, you mentioned that you used some of the water from the tank from when it crashed as well as some of the rocks which could also be causing problems with water quality. All in all it sounds like your water quality is not stable which is stressing the corals out, despite what your tests re saying. What are you testing for and how old are your test sets?
  5. The back piece was not painted as it filled the entire back wall although the bank of the tank was from a previous project. The false wall was painted prior to install. Remember, the rock walls were built on separate pieces of plexi which was trimmed and then siliconed in the the tank. Made construction easier as there was less in tank work.
  6. Glad you got it squared away. I read thebreviews in the Azoo and was worried myself but thought I would go ahead and roll the dice as it is the only heater available that will fit my application other than the Marineland. My 2.5gal sits in my basement shop where the ambient temp is about 66 degrees so I needed something with some oomph to it. So far it is working well. I will keep my fingers crossed.
  7. I had the same problem with mine. It would not get my 2.5 gallon over 76 degrees even though it is preset at 78. I just got a Azoo 50watt titanium heater off of Amazon and it is keep my tank rock solid right where I want it. The titanium probe is about the same size as the mainland and the thermostat is located outside of the tank, I am loving it. It was a bit pricey at $39, but it has been worth it. -Prof
  8. I pour the epoxy into the cracks and then coat it with sand. -Prof
  9. I think the safest course of action would to drain the tank and then totally reseal it. With that much weight the chances of a catastrophic failure are pretty good and that is a lot of water to find on your living room floor. Glass cages does not have the best rep so I personally would not fill comfortable with a temp patch. -prof
  10. I would use either hot FW or hot SW that is mixed so that the water will not absorb any additional salt mix (wicked high salinity). The idea is that algae is unicellular and any abrupt change in specific gravity to those cells should cause the cell structures to become disrupted and/or burst. This can be accomplished with low SG (FW) or very high SG. In your tank I think I would go with fresh water and wait to do it until you normally top off for evap. Apply the hot FW to the algae and then top off to your normal level. You will have less of a chance of screwing up your water chemistry this way. I have done this before with good results in my 40br using a hot, very salinic water mixed with Kalk. The Kalk was insurance and useful in the future for killing aipstasia and is probably overkill, especially for your tank. Good luck! -Prof
  11. I epoxied the rock to the plexi and then siliconed the plexi to the aquarium wall. You might be able to get away with silicone on the rocks but whether you use silicon or epoxy you have to wash and rinse the rocks well and then dry them so all the dust is off them or it will affect the adhesion properties. I think 1/4" plexi will work fine. Make sure you give everything ample time to cure before filling with water. If you use epoxy I would let it dry for a week.
  12. Manual removal is the way to go. I don't think emeralds will eat racemosa. Make sure you get all of the rhizome when you are removing it. I have had some luck with a mixture of Kalk and salt mix on invasive macros but in such a small tank I would be concerned about screwing up your parameters and doing more harm than good.
  13. Thanks guys. The biggest challenge with this tank has been and will continue to be being patient and allow things to grow in. I still want to frag a few heads from my Duncan to put in there but other than that I am done adding things unless I run across something stunning. Of course "I'm done stocking" are the famous last words of many a reefer, to include myself!