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onthefly

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About onthefly

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    Colored Sticks Rule!
  • Birthday 09/26/1970

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  1. Vitamin C

    Glad they pulled thru Bio-reef! My point though, is this....your experience cannot be attributed to the Vitamin C. Maybe it was the phyto, maybe it was the moon phase, or maybe some other stressor not controlled for. If you had only added Vit.C, then it makes a stronger argument, but still, in as complex a system as a reef environment is, we can't make direct statements like that. I had a clown once with fin rot...I put him in a 10ga with 35ppm IO, 75F pH8.0, and antibiotic. It went away....Given that the antibiotic was the only additive, it's a stronger case that it was the antibiotic that reversed the fin rot, but still not concrete.
  2. Vitamin C

    Viable...yes, Practical..no! When someone shows me the data showing the bioavailability of Vitamin C added in trans...I'll add it to my tank. Otherwise, I'll go by the "tried and true" method..."if you don't test for it, don't add it"
  3. Would Silica Sand be ok If?

    Aragonite is better, but I ran silica sand for a year without any side effects. Silicates from silica is like saying, "when I squeeze this orange, lemon just will come out". Your glass tank is made of 95% silica! The trick to silica sand is checking the MSDS from the manufacture to see the composition. Quikcrete is what I used and it stated 100% silica. If you see limestone, felspar, gypsum in any %'s..then those might contain silicate contaminants. The down side to silica....it looked "gray" in the tank...not bright white like aragonite.
  4. SCWD on crack DIY

    I get the same flow out as before since I DID NOT bore out the ports. In fact the original design puts the inlet flow "closer" to the gears than the mod'd SCWD. The pic is a bit misleading Same switching frequency as before on the Mag 9 return. Oh yeah.....ABS can be founds in the plumbing aisle at HD....by all the "big" plumbing stuff.
  5. Kalkwasser

    Could be......but it is marketed as KALKWASSER.
  6. Kalkwasser

    Best move I ever made was switching from Kent Kalk to ESV Kalk...... The statement CaOH is CaOH is not accurate. The kent product could barely keep my Ca/alk up (maybe 400/7.0 on a fresh charge) and I ended up supplementing with 2-part toward the second week. Now, couple that with having to recharge my KR every 3 weeks.....PITA. With ESV, I haven't touched my KR in 8 weeks.....checked Ca last week....465! No supplementation! It costs $14 for a years suppy.....worth every penny!
  7. All good suggestions.... I made the 2 day trip from San Diego to Portland with a Flame hawk, 3 clowns, and 4 chromis. 2 five gallon buckets (in the extra cab of my truck) with a battery operated airstone. Temp never fell below 75F.
  8. why could all of my macro died?

    After switching to BB.....I was unable to keep any form of macro. Only when I started to feed the tank heavily, then it grows, but very slowly.
  9. barebottom maintenance

    It probably isn't.....because that is a key component of BB'ism! That being said, as long as you're armed with a turkey baster and a siphon hose...weekly vaccuuming will do the trick, but you have to be able to access the detritus piles.
  10. barebottom maintenance

    Happy reading...it's a mega thread! How to go BB
  11. barebottom maintenance

    Hey Deak! GD - Nass snails work well, but personally I've never been able to keep them alive. SeanT over at RC wrote a huge "how to BB" thread. In there, he says astreas and ceriths are the best BB snails. FWIW, I personally like margarita snails....always busy doing sonething! Then again, I also like hermits
  12. barebottom maintenance

    GD - to have a properly functioning BB tank....as previously said, there has to be enough flow along the bottom to "suspend" the crap. Many people who run larger BB tank actually run less rock since they don't have the same demand for biological filtration. A bonus of this setup: less rock = more room for coral growth. In your system, I could easily see that "crap" could be getting trapped behind or under those larger peices and you don't have many access point to siphon. In my set up, weekly siphoning was required to keep up with the shedding while to tank was new. Now, nothing comes out of the rocks and I only have to siphon once a month maybe. What I do is this: 1) turn off all pumps, 2) turkey baste all the rocks to suspend whatever I can, 3) after it settles to the BB, siphon it out, and finally 4) Replace the water. I also run a filter sock 24/7.
  13. Grafting and hybridization are nothing new. This guy is just trying to apply techniques used for MANY species to coral propagation. Trees, roses, tulips, dogs, mice (nice job with the Nude mouse model Flo!), orchids, etc. Tiny - you missed my intension. If you can't do allo-grafts, then there is no frankenstein (pronounced franken-shteen! ) factor.....it is "basically" no different that you getting your brothers kidney. Although, again, we're oversimplifing the graft process, since you'd probably be on immunosuppressive therapy for the rest of your life!
  14. UV Light Bad?

    UV is bad! UV-B and C are the worst (higher energy) and just ask some one who's have the protective glass shell break on their MH's "how bad UV is?" UV-A is less damaging, but you can still get a sunburn from it, therefore the possibility for tissue damage is there. Some say limited exposure to UV-A might cause increased coloration, but that's just a theory. Take all this with a grain of salt, cuz some corals spend 6hrs a day out of the water basking in the fiji sun and show no ill effects.
  15. Yup! That's why I say grafting a hunk of orange Monti cap to a purple monti cap....is no different than mixing a rottie and a poodle.....you're "fusing" 2 of the same species. Obviously, this is an oversimplification because I'm talking about breeding vs. grafting. But, invert physiology/immunology is way different than mammalian anyway so any comparisons are vague at best.
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