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non-photosynt

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  1. Red Sun Coral

    Dendrophyllia arbuscula is quite bright colored, but it's more tangerine than red, and Dendrophyllia gracilis is rather salmon colored than red, interesting what species is the really red one... But standard operating procedure for all is the same: feed, and feed, and feed Dendrophyllia fistula, fitecracker dendrophyllia, the one that is open much longer than anybody else from them as I had heard costs each polyp quite a lot.
  2. Any non-photosynthetic nanos here?

    Dark red Hymerometra continues to live, but filtration and water should be 10x better than I ever could possibly have. Mottled fluffy green-white star lasted much longer then long armed two feather stars, but as a chili corals, it (or all of them) didn't like the high dissolved organics water (see Claude's post about chilis and his experiments at RC at NPC subforum).
  3. Great Toronto Area Frag Trading

    NAFB (Scarborough) has now tank with $10 frags. I bought nice red montipora, chalices and purple lemnalia.
  4. New Youtube video of pico reefs and globe terrariums

    Thank you very much! Does subgallon pico have any special requirements in order of stocking? I have now the empty tank - just like yours, only 2 gal - with refugium wall and pump holder siliconed in place. After curing is finished, what should be added? Live sand (bagged, alas) under pump, cycled LR in the main part of the tank, and few days later some macroalgae in refugium? Then in a month start add coral, one at a time? Start with which corals, softies or LPS and only later add sps? Any tips will be extremely helpful. I know about cycling new tank, and will watch for ammonia. But these will be components from established tanks, with bacterial support (Stability) and AmQuel+ in case of emergency
  5. Bringing a Sun Coral back...

    It takes time, months. Just continue feeding it, at least twice a week. Every day will give faster result. More than one kind of food too If this is bright orange sun coral, not paler yellow-orange, it takes much longer than with any other of sun corals, IMHE. Yellow-orange sun coral growth. Other sun corals speed of regeneration. Post later how fast your coral will regrow. It would be interesting to know how it works for others.
  6. New Youtube video of pico reefs and globe terrariums

    Wow! This is really becoming the micro pico handbook. Glad that you share with us, who decided to graduate to pico (you know how it was mentioned many times, "graduating to sps", same about the different type of reef tank). About strength of magnets: didn't try myself yet, but the gadgets store says that thicker, rod rare earth magnets are stronger than button-like magnets, here is that lift strength could be from 2.5 to 9 lb. Don't know if this would be enough for coraline: another factor is scrubbing ability of the magnet pad we talked about. I guess, not much for a soft acrylic pad, slightly better for internal part of the glass cleaning scraper that has liking closely resembling crude part of velcro. But from what I read here, at NR, the only sure thing that works on coraline is metal blade that is glued to the mag-float, acts like blade of snow plower. What amount of food are you giving to your tanks, palmtop and/or vase? It would be good to have some reference point. Controlling sweepers by positioning corals: We can't possibly know effect of water flow in particular spot before gluing coral there and observing its behavior. And flow pattern changes after adding new corals before it . Any ideas how to predict this before attaching coral? Algae patches and aiptasia control: How to do that in lower part of the reef, where access is even more restricted? Sand bed vs. bare bottom: Sand bed is justified for the reef vase with lower flow (is it driven only by one 10g rated air pump?), and I see on some pictures sand in handheld pico, under powerhead. Was it removed later or not? Did so close proximity reduce life of powerhead? How the powerhead was attached in handheld pico? After a while suction caps of my Mini-Jets don't hold them well anymore. What did you do: replaced suction caps, used magnetic holder, or some sort of siliconed acrylic holder? Influence of the heater on the water flow from powerhead: I tried place the short heater (Theo or All-Glass, short and thick) in the front of Mini-Jet, there will be not too much options within 2" wide chamber. Looks like flow will be dispersed even before it reaches the algae chamber. How it worked in your tank? Did the powerhead chamber - when it contained sand - had the plastic wall as refugium had, or live rock wall only? What do you think, will a sand become a nutrients sink if used in heavily fed sun corals pico? And a couple of words about long term keeping shrimp or mini snails in subgallon pico and 2g reef vase, please. Possible, advisable, or better not. If yes, optimal numbers. Thank you!
  7. New Youtube video of pico reefs and globe terrariums

    Thanks! You see why I'm asking so much now: this solution simply didn't occur to me . Already have this thick mini magnetic cleaner for acrylic tanks, will do that. Found 2 gal glass cylinder at supermarket. Salivated for some time over 3g acrylic cylinder tank with LED lights and central column with air pump, but still decided in favor of smaller glass vessel. 2g will allow space for sun corals growth for a while, more time between prunings. What will you advice about general principle of corals placement, based on results of your experiments with pico tanks? Any ways to work around specific for some coral groups behavior? For example: - Place for sps logically should be at the top, but xenia will climb there anyway. How to keep xenia from taking over sps or place reserved for sps? - Should be LPS frags (like turbinaria, chalice, acan, brains) be fed by larger than cyclop-eeze food? Are they suitable at all for this type of tanks? How to mount corals with flat growth, perpendicular to the wall? What could be placed in the shady place under them, even with light from the side? - How do you peel perimeter of GSP, especially the lower, difficult to access part? I understand that the trick is to keep them on a separate piece of rock, but if they overgrow it? - Mushrooms: they tend to expand very wide even without growth, a single red mushroom can take a good couple of inches. Keep all mushrooms in one place at the bottom? What corals can be around them without being burned? How to remove mushroom from limited access place, cut it off or together with the rock? - What corals would better to place downflow from corals, burning neighbors (like hammer, pavona or maze brain)? Thanks.
  8. New Youtube video of pico reefs and globe terrariums

    Excellent, thank you! I was brainwashed to clean powerheads, again, and again, and again, still less than others do; this is why such worry about making them accessible. Nice of you to notice, but I'm two fingers typer and have to do a lot of corrections , hunting for usable information makes one to ask a lot. I still thinking about acrylic tanks: what kind of felt did you use for your pico glass not scratching scraper? Soft part of velcro, craft or fabric department polyester felt, fine woodworking drivers' lining green felt, furniture legs cushions felt? Green scrubbing pads probably will leave scratches... See you later.
  9. Transparent anemone shrimp

    I may as well add what I already know: I bought two, larger ans smaller, it seemed that sexing should be the same as for sexy shrimps. Tank was without anemone but with bumpy chalice frags, the bigger anemone shrimp spend a lot of time rocking itself between two chalice bumps, causing concern for chalice health, but in a couple of days started behave as a common shrimp, busy with own business. The small one was behaving like sexy shrimp in the same tank (sitting in one place and looking around, no conflicts or interest so far), paying no attention to the big anemone shrimp too. Tank had ammonia spike, neutralized by AmQuel+, and I don't see this small transparent shrimp anymore. Everybody else in this tank, panda goby, very young sexy shrimp, another transparent anemone shrimp, nerite and nassarius snails, montiporas and chalises, survived this spike without visible consequences. The big one eats a lot: big granule of cyclop-eeze (Tetra microcrab granules) at one time and in the evening food is already passed down - shrimp is transparent and recently consumed food is visible. It does eat cyclop-eeze granules, soaked for a long time in salt water, but refuses be fed only by them. This is a lot of bioload for a pico. Adding cycled biomedia from established tank into the big power filter with reduced flow helps. Based on short term observations, this shrimp is a good pet by itself, peaceful, but IMHO it's too big for a pico tanks (2-3 gal) due to amount of food required, and it is out of scale - like elephant - if there are other small inhabitants, like sexy shrimps. It draws attention to itself, and smaller animals are not noticeable, unless you know who to look for.
  10. Panda goby, weaning and filtration

    Alive and well, still under PC yet. Formula462: Here we go again... I asked people who kept panda gobies to share their experience with this fish. Did you keep them and not willing to share? I understand that everyone can post whatever they want on forums, but not everybody is obliged to read this kind of posts. I unsubscribed from this thread. Sorry, gals and guys, I thought that we can work together, not against each other
  11. Panda goby, weaning and filtration

    There were 3 of them, now 2. This panda goby didn't make it. I watched them closely, no signs of aggression - unlike scooters and mandarin dragonets. Each panda occupied far away place, they moved time from time, never any contacts with own kind. Ragged fins looked like bacterial infection (white not cottony tips) that progressed very fast. Did what I could. I could set another pico and keep one panda goby in its own pico, as I did with scooters and mandarins, but these are not bothering each other yet. Anything about feeding? 3x a day or 3x a week? If bigger tank, how to find gobies there for a feeding?
  12. New Youtube video of pico reefs and globe terrariums

    Thank you very much, Brandon, most kind of you! I'm planning 3 picos: 1. Corals depository. Just like your palmtop pico, sealed, only my tank is glass and ~1.5x bigger; no choice. I could buy smaller and wider bowfront acrylic tank (small PenPlax Habitat, $6-$10), but I have bad experience with cleaning acrylic walls. How did you managed to glue divider inside the tank? 2" distance is not enough for either caulking gun or hand with small tube of silicone, kept under the angle for reaching required place. Is pump also behind the plastic divider, or just behind the LR structure? Drawings show only refugium behind divider. Was your heater 50W or less? 2. Sun corals frags tank. Have 1g glass fish bowl, have a problem with positioning: heater, a lot of biomedia, and orientation of corals. If there will be the central hollow rock structure with heater in bubbling flow, corals' mouths will be open sideways, difficult to feed, and air bubbles will escape sideways. If make a pile of rock at the bottom and place corals mouths up in the widest part of the bowl, heater and pump will be the eye sore and difficult to remove all food from under the rock. In both cases no place for hiding of the pump, it should be removable for a cleaning. 3. Tank for 2-3 panda gobies and few sexy shrimps. Sps tank. Itcould be of any size, but I should be able to find gobies there for a feeding. I don't know should they be fed 3x a day or every second day, should food be placed right in the front of each of them and not eaten food removed by turkey baster? With such feedings water quality will be (and already is) a problem. Likely bare bottom for easier cleaning. Any tips will be appreciated. What cleanup crew did you place in palmtop pico and reef vase? I can't use vase: don't like the shape, family members will object the shape, and already had a bad experience with deep and narrow, difficult to reach tank. Would like to avoid making anything more difficult than necessary. And any of my tanks must have a heater, one degree above my room temperature is not enough for tropical corals . What do you think about clams in pico? Do you know if tinyreef's clams pico worked well for a task? Thank you.
  13. New Youtube video of pico reefs and globe terrariums

    3. Setup: order and waiting periods. Is I understand: get tank, make divider, lid with few holes, silicone divider and lid, let silicone cure, cut lid off. What material was used for divider, some black plastic because of fuge lit at night? How front and back are connected, some lowering in the divider? Add hardware: Mini-Jet 404 (what setting use, lowest or second to it?), heater (Tronic? 25W or 50W? Will 10W heater, preset at 78F, be enough?). Fill with water, add chaeto (or caulerpa? Will mix of macroalgae be preferable or not?). Add cured LR. How fix at place, how much - 1" thick LR wall? Allow to cycle, then...? Time frame for adding corals: when, with what interval, glue them next to each other or not, add carbon after gluing or do additional water change? What to do with slimming? Some corals slim a lot after fragging. Size of the frags (for sps like montipora and birdsnest, globular LPS, chalice maybe - or is it at too big scale for a small tank)? Positioning of flat corals, perpendicular to the wall? Will they shade corals under them? Should all corals be glued to the piece of rock before adding to the tank? Tools for adding corals: long hemostats? Thank you.
  14. New Youtube video of pico reefs and globe terrariums

    2. Size of the tank For corals depository, will 1 gal tank (minus space for hardware and refugium) be enough for housing, say, 27-30 corals (all kinds)? Or 1.5g will be better? As I understand, the limit when different rules begin to apply, is 2.5 gal, right? I have 4 different montipora caps, porites, encrusting and branching, pavona, birdsnest, pocillopora damicornis; LPS: chalises, leptosammia, blastomussa (welsii and merletti), maze brain frag; NPS: chili and a couple of polyps of the sun coral should do well in this kind setup; softies: pom-pom xenia, gsp, purple lemnalia, red mushrooms. I guess hairy mushroom is out of question, because of size? Does anything from this list cause concern and what are the ways to work around it?
  15. New Youtube video of pico reefs and globe terrariums

    Now random questions, if I may: 1. Tank choice. Small acrylic tanks are available in wide variety of shapes: Mini Bow 1g, 3L bowfront Pen-Plax New World Habitat Mini, Lees double bettahex, maybe others. They scratch easily and can be polished from inside only in content was removed. The simpler way is use the new tank with clear view. How to move reef wall from one tank to another? One coral by one, waiting few days before adding next coral, or both: coral wall and hardware at once? At beginning the wall-divider in subgallon pico was siliconed to the tank, when moving, this is impossible (silicone have to cure without water and corals.) Choice of glass tanks of so small size is more limited: Current USA betta cube, same size blown glass cubes from department or thrift stores, vases of different shapes, goldfish bowls, DIY from thick glass photo frames (not in the winter ). Glass will be good almost forever, only glass tank setup likely will be different from Brandon's subgallon pico because of common square or globular shapes. BTW, did you notice difference in corals' condition when they were growing under side light in acrylic subgallon pico and glass reef vase? Is one material preferable over another because of this?
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