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AZDesertRat

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About AZDesertRat

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    Water Wastewater Operations and Maintenance Consultant

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    Phoenix AZ

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  1. AZDesertRat

    Can I use my RO unit?

    Make 10-20 gallons of RO only water to the drain and see what the rejection rate is. Measure your tap water TDS and your RO only TDS to calculate the rejection rate. Tap TDS - RO TDS, divide that number by the original Tap TDS then multiply that result by 100. Example tap TDS 200, RO only TDS 4, 200-4=196, 196/200=0.98, 0.98x100=98% rejection rate or removal efficiency which is where you want to be. Another big concern is bacteria growing in the housings, take it completely apart and wash it well with mild soapy water and rinse well. Then reassemble the housings without any membrane or filters in them and run a couple spoonfulls of regular unscented bleach through them and let it sit a couple minutes with the solution in it before rinsing and installing the new filters.
  2. AZDesertRat

    RO/DI Plumbing

    As long as the copper/bronze/brass is on the tap water side it is not a problem. Never install any metallic plumbing past the RO membrane though.
  3. AZDesertRat

    Replacing DI resin- did I do it right

    Resin actually shrinks slightly with time. I would dump the resin into a container and stir it up, it may have stratified or one or the other, cationic or anionic has settled to the bottom. Mix it up then pour it back in the cartridge, tap the cartridge on the table or counter top a couple times to pack it down, add more resin, tap it against the table again several times, top it off and reinstall the foam ring and lid. You want it packed as tightly as possible so water does not channel or short circuit.
  4. AZDesertRat

    Is there a thread size in between 3/4 and 1 inch?

    External threads on a bulkhead are not NPT or tapered pipe threads so will not seal even if you can get something to start on them. They are a straight thread similar to a bolt so the nut runs completely up and down and seals by butting up against a gasket versus tightening up with a taper on a pipe thread. Use the inside of the bulkhead. I much prefer thread x thread bulkheads myself as they can be disassembled and reused versus having to cut slip bulkheads apart once they have been glued. I have a bulkhead installation tips sticky post somewhere on here and most other reef forums to use as a guide.
  5. AZDesertRat

    Spectrapure RODI Hardly Producing Water

    What is your water pressure and water temperature? Both have a major effect on GPD. What is your exact measured waste ratio? Colder winter months and colder water temperatures often increase the waste causing lower pressures to the membrane. If you have wide swings in water temperatures you may want to get a second capillary tube flow restrictor and trim one for summer months and one for winter months so your waste ratio stays around 4:1 year round. Often RO/DI systems do not do well on domestic well/water systems since the pressure switch is usually around 35-40 psi and a RO membrane likes to see 60-80 or even higher to work efficiently. It is usually cheaper to buy a RO booster pump than to try and turn up your well pressure switch.
  6. AZDesertRat

    RO/DI unit with low daily output?

    Just because it is rated at 75 or 90 GPD does not mean you have to make that much at a time, its just how fast it will produce x amount of water in 24 hours. As stated above DO NOT get a 25 or 50 GPD system, it will be painfully slow and you will hate it. The 90 GPD refurbished systems are the best value out there for a reef system today. It is better to make a larger amount of water every 10-14 days and store it in a sealed container rather than making a galloon or two every day. Membranes annd DI like nice long filter runs so the ycan cleanse themselves, short filter runs lead to what is called TDS Creep and will wear a system out much faster and cost you more to own and operate.
  7. AZDesertRat

    TDS question

    Open your cold water faucet all the way, don't try to throttle or mix cold and hot water, 100% cold and open completely. Plugged sediment and carbon block filters will reduce the pressure available to the membrane thus decreasing its rejection rate or removal efficiency. Their purpose is to protect the RO membrane, they don't remove TDS themeslves, and the membrane removes 90-98% of the TDS with the DI cartridge polishing off the final 2-10%. You TDS meter is probably correct, RO/DI water is very agressive trying to get back to its natural "dirty" state so attracts things out of the air, in plastics, salt residue etc. Keep stored RO/DI water sealed or capped so it does not attract contaminants. MY ATO storage is a covered 23 gallon Rubbermaid can and stays at 0 TDS for 6 months or more as long as I don't circulate or aerate it and keep it loosly covered.
  8. AZDesertRat

    Spectrapure RODI/ATO

    I have the Spectrapure UPLC II myself and love it. The principle is the same with the digital electronic sensor and air tube so I would imagine that one works very well also. I would not place it in a sump and hook the RO/DI directly to it. Make an ATO storage containe that you fill from the RO/DI periodically then have the ATO pull from that. That way if the ATO fails you don't flood the display and sump with fresh water killing everything, the ATO storage will only have a limited amount of water before it runs dry. Coming stratight from the RO/DI iy would run forever until you catch it and lower your salinity.
  9. AZDesertRat

    Spectrapure hookup

    I use a brass garden hose wye on the washing machine cold water supply. Make sure to get the wye with individual ball valves built in so you can isolate one or the other side.
  10. AZDesertRat

    Which RO/DI system to buy?

    Not nearly as good as Spectrapure or Buckeye Fied Supply. The sediment filters are too coarse, not absolute rated, they do not treat or test their RO membranes to increase production and water quality, do not use capillary tube flow restrictors and most of all do not custom blend all their DI resins so they las tat least 30% longer costing you less money in the long run. There really is a difference.
  11. AZDesertRat

    I have Chloramines, which RO/DI?

    I have used the MaxCap dual DI myself for about 9 years now and love it but Phoenix tap water is very hard and extremely high TDS so it was worth the extra money. If your tap TDS is in the normal range, say 250 or less then you will be well served by either system. I am not a fan of the dual inline TDS meters myself due to their drawbacks so they are not an advantage to me, I rarely even turn mine on anymore and prefer my COM-100 handheld. I would not run RO/DI to a facuet as it is very agressive and will eventually cause problems with the pressure tank and faucets metal and rubber contents. It is far better to branch off after the RO membrane with a tee and check valve and isolate the DI from the drinking water. Shoot me a PM, I have some additional info for you that may be a cost savings.
  12. AZDesertRat

    Which RO/DI system to buy?

    Leave the flush kit, it has no proven value other than to lighten your wallet. Thats why they do not add them as standard equipment. If you want to add value, install a tee and ball valve between the RO membrane and DI (as you have already planned) and manually flush the TDS creep away, flush kits do not do this. All flush kits do is bypass the flow restrictor which is on the waste line, the TDS creep is actually on the treated water side of the RO membrane not the waste side so it does absolutely nothing but give you a warm fuzzy feeling.
  13. AZDesertRat

    I have Chloramines, which RO/DI?

    Chloramines are a walk in the park for the Spectrapure refurbished systems. Chloramines are very misunderstood and where most people mess up is by buying the so called "chloramine" carbon blocks when in fact they need to be investing in better DI resin and good DI contact time. Any good 0.5, 0.6 or 1.0 micron single carbon block, not two and not catalytic carbons such as KX carbon manufacturers, is more than capable of removing the chlorine portion of chloramines at normal EPA approved drinking levels. The real problem is the ammonia portion which carbons do not touch and where almost all vendors miss the boat. Spectrapure blends their own resins in house based on their lab testing with chloramines, silicates, phosphates and who knows what else so they are the very best. they also only use full size vertical 20 oz DI canister and cartridges, not the little throw away horizontals you see on many systems, so they get the maximum contact time. Another thing you can do is at your first replacement interval, replace the 1.0 micron sediment and carbon block filters with their 0.5 micron absolute versions for only a few $$ more and also replace the DI with their new Super SilicaBuster version when it needs replacing, now you have the best of everything for chloramines or any other contaminant.
  14. AZDesertRat

    DIY Automatic Top-Off

    PLEASE, please, for your own safety and that of anyone who chsoses to follow this design, ALWAYS install a DC relay and power supply so you are using only 12v or 24v DC for the float switch and near the water. The design is simple but could be deadly. A DC relay and wall wart power supply are dirt cheap and could save your life
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