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Pakrat

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About Pakrat

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    Nano Reefer

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    Honolulu, HI
  1. Is it TRUE?

    Dunno about everyone else but digital for me has been a godsend. I'm an average joe with a limited knowledge of photography of any sort, film digital or otherwise. My photos from film to digital have taken a huge leap in quality. Part of it is because I can see what I've shot; I can pull frames from videos. I can visually interface the setting of the camera in terms that a layperson like me can understand to get whatever shot I desire. While it may not have that color depth/contrast/saturation that is possible on film, I must say I never got that anyway. My prints have thus come out superior in every respect including my cost per picture. Now if I want to share the thousands of pictures that I’ve taken of me and my family for the last few years with a friend, I don’t have to spend a hundred dollars in prints. I send a DVD. Granted I still have my hard copies, I still make my scrap books, but now I have more options. Digital is king. In those respects I feel that film will become nothing more than a nitch market in a very short time, a place for hobbyists and professionals. The consumer market will be digital. In the far future, as CCD/image processing technology improves along with print quality film may phase out all together.
  2. suggestions for 20h?

    I also have a 20h and I went with a 250w halide. I'm happy with it and I would recommend it to anyone looking to keep light loving species like anemones and sps. The extra height of a 20H might make it difficult to keep what you've suggested though I've never used that particular setup before. What else are you doing with that setup? CL? Sump? any pics or design schematics?
  3. Plumbing Questions

    imho I've found that two drains is easier to quiet because then you can independently control the flow in each making your drain almost silent. Two drains I've found also gives me piece of mind knowing that if one fails or gets clogged the other is still probably going.
  4. UV Sterillizers.... good or not so good?

    richman02003, Although I haven’t had a lot of problems with brown algae in my tank, from what I've gathered from the boards algae problems stem from first and foremost a high nutrient content in your water, and that stemming from in large part from water with a high phosphate content. Do you use RO/DI water? If you’re using tap water, this might be one of the reasons. Also, and I may be wrong, but nitrates are formed as bacteria break down waste products and proteins from ammonia all the way down to nitrates. To my knowledge don't contribute to the growth of algae, and few things remove them from the water column as most often the bacteria that utilize nitrates are anaerobic. Another reason for the Brown algae in particular is older lamps, as they age they tend to shift in spectrum away from what is most usable to the green algae towards the infrared which favors the brown algae. If your lamps are over a year old this is also probably a contributing factor. About UV sterilizers, again from what I've gathered they can be used for two purposes, as a clarifier to remove algae from the water column and also as a method to destroy pathogens such as ick. Used as a clarifier it seems most any UV sterilizer will do the trick. To effectively remove pathogens requires significantly more exposure to the UV, about three times more. I'll paste some information I grabbed off a manufacturers info. Based on a 70,000 æW sec/cm2 (microwatt seconds per square centimeter) the flowrates are as follows: 16 Watt UV Unit 430 gph 40 Watt UV Unit 1000 gph 60 Watt UV Unit 1500 gph By changing the flow rate through the UV unit you will change the effective "kill power" of the UV unit. For example: If you only allow 215 gph thru the 16 watt unit, you will effectively increase the kill power to 140,000 æW sec/cm2 (microwatt seconds per square centimeter). And also the opposite, by increasing the flow rate you will lower the "kill power". We have included a chart to help you calculate your flow rate depending on the "kill power" needed for the corresponding Micro-Organisms. Waterborne Algae 15,000 to 30,000 æW sec/cm2 Common Bacteria 15,000 to 30,000 æW sec/cm2 Protozoa (Ich) 45,000 æW sec/cm2 Fungi 45,000 æW sec/cm2 Hope this Helps!
  5. Thinking of drilling my 20g High

    There's a bit more to head loss than just the height and the pump. You should take into account elbows, pipe material, and total length in addition to virtical height and pump information. Here's a couple of links that will help you out. Head Loss Calculator Some General Pump Info Hope this helps
  6. My 20g high SCWD closed loop system

    If your water wasn't already in I'd say black background and paint your PVC black as well, but thats just personal preference. I like the contrast it brings to the livestock/rockwork and hides the pvc against the black background. It also hides your plumbing and equipemnt better. I like a combination of function and appearance. If you decide to, from what I've seen krylon fusion paint works well. Otherwise, very nice setup.
  7. A sump for a 24g nano is it worth it?

    Probaly not, a 5 gallon jug would have a functional volume for a sump of about errr... half that. It depends on how much your tank will drain when the power goes out and your available space though. IMHO it isn't a very large water volume to add and wouldn't be worth it. I guess the exception would be if you were able to hide all your equipment in it and was the only thing that would fit under your tank. It would serve to make your setup a little prettier. Still..... Watch the flood danger. My 20g high drains about 5 gallons when the power goes out so I use a 10 gallon sump that usually has about 5 gallons in it. Works great. You can make your own sump too, just go to walmart and make your own rubbermaid sump. It'll Probaly end up equite a bit cheaper than anything you could get at the LFS and works just as well. Like fifty said, Bigger is better More water volume = more stable enviornment = happier fish/corals Bigger sump also means you can hide more equipment in it = prettier display
  8. JBJ Auto Top Off Unit

    I just made mine, bought a coupld of float switches, a relay from radio shack, some butt connectors, and a standard extenction cord. Very cheap maybe 30 bucks + the pump. I bought my switches from http://www.floatswitches.net/ They have a schematic on how to do it, I wired mine exactly the same.
  9. JBJ IceProbe Chiller

    These chillers are thermoelectric; they work by converting electrical energy into cooling power relative to the ambient temperature. There are a couple of things you can do to maximize its cooling power. One is you need to make sure that there is good air flow going past the fan/heat sink on the unit. It will work poorly or not at all without adequate ventilation as the unit will cool only a few degrees below room temperature. Another thing would be to have good flow going past it, I had mine in a turbulent area of my sump, I've seen other people modify pvc fittings and put them in-line on their returns, both I think work great. I had one for a while mounted to a bulkhead of my sump near the overflow drain with a small fan blowing over it. In the end it wasn't enough, but I'm convinced the things I did helped. I don’t know how Styrofoam would help, I think a fan would work better, and with an auto-top-off which is pretty easy and cheap to DIY you would be all set. The ice probe would help stabilize the temp swings. Hope this helps.
  10. JBJ ATO Question

    Negative on the three feet on the aqua lifter, max head pressure for those is about 1.25 feet. Float switches are pretty cheap, if you want to go that route. I went with 2 float switches from http://www.floatswitches.net/ a relay from radio shack and some wire from home depot, I had an extra Maxijet 600 Powerhead that I used as a pump but anything will probably do alright. Put it together with some bullet connectors and you have an ATO. They have instructions on the forums and at the web site above if you need it. I prefer this system but some people prefer to use timers and peristaltic pumps, both work well and are quite reliable. Hope this helps!
  11. auto top off

    Auto top offs are pretty cheap and easy to do, I prefer the dual float switch attached to a power head method but people have had success with aqualifter/timer as well, you just have to keep better track of it. Both are pretty cheap and are quite reliable. Any kind of ATO is awsome for a nano, one of the best things I ever added to my tank. As for the pH control I think if your using it to dose calcium or alk you might want to use a peristaltic pump, more accurate, slower (more control), and less likely to get clogged (maybe?).
  12. Sand or BB?

    BB usualy does better then with sand because you can suck up the detritus and particulate matter so easily. No crap = lower bioload = good In BB setups you can have higher flow without worring about blowing sand around like what sometimes happens in a high energy tank. Personaly though I like the look of sand so I keep about an inch of crushed coral of a pretty big grain.
  13. What the heck is a detrivore!?!?!

    My detritivore is a Black Sea Cucumber spends the whole day and night eating poop. Pretty hardy thing too, survived a year, 3 tanks and as many crashes. He's still going strong though. I can't get a pic of mine atm but I found one that pretty much looks just like him. I recomend them, nothing bothers them and they don't mess with the rockwork. They are definately the least agressive thing in my tank. I've always had a sand bed and I think they require one to survive although I could be wrong.
  14. RO/DI Unit

    Check out THIS THREAD, it pretty much covered the same thing and the info is still pretty current. It pretty much boils down to how much you want to spend, who you want to buy from and how much much purifying you need. I recoment Air Water & Ice, they have good prices and service. Brandon
  15. glass tank vs acrylic tank

    I have had 1 glass tank and three acrylic tanks so far. The glass tank was heavier and undrillable (tempered), scratch free and cheap as heck. I love the acrylic though; it's stronger which is important since I move a lot. I got a custom 20H from SoCal Creations with an external overflow. It has a clean look and is exactly the way I wanted it. Pros - Acrylic - I made bulkheads for my sump return, closed loop, and intakes for 6 holes on a 20 gallon tank which was easier and IMO safer with acrylic. - I also have an external overflow which unless you are a glass expert and DIY guru is impossible on glass. - Acrylic is clearer, insulates better, and is in the order of 20 times stronger - You can make any shape/configuration Cons - Scratches WILL happen even if you are careful - Acrylic tanks cost several times more then glass ones - Mass produced acrylic tanks (ie. Clear for life, SeaClear) will have a noticeable deflection but are still highly regarded as safe. Personally if you have the money I'd go with a custom acrylic, IMO they look the best and you get Exactly what you want. Scratches on acrylic require you almost always to break the tank down, so keep that in mind. On the flip side glass tank scratches are difficult to the impossible to fix (worth it just to buy a new one or replace the scratched panel). If you don't have the cash you can scrub the closed loops, fancy overflows and get a great tank in glass going. It might not look quite as clean with power heads and hang on/over equipment like overflows but most people have great success with them. Just a little of what I've experienced Brandon
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