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About Philtur

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    Nano Reefer
  • Birthday May 1

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  1. Interest in auto-topoff units?

    This may sound a bit crazy, but... My RO unit is in the kitchen under the sink. For the larger tanks, I'm adding a float valve into the sumps for auto top off. For the smaller tanks, I'm putting a float valve into a reservoir for top off water and connecting a pump with switches, http://www.floatswitches.net/autotopoff.html. Here's the crazy part, or maybe just a few hours of work to get it done, I'm going to run tubing from the RO through the attic and walls and have an output at each tank to feed into the float valves. Each location will have an isolation valve and a service line so that I can get RO for water changes right there. I'm using John Guest Speedfittings, http://www.waterfilterstore.net/cat.asp?i=101, so that I don't have to worry about leakage where I Tee off in the attic and at the other locations. They're a bit expensive, but hopefully worth it to prevent a leak. I'm also going to add a DI unit downstream of the RO unit to increase water purity. Thoughts? Experiences? Suggestions?
  2. DIY Peltier Chiller for $20-$60

    Your math seems right, but I think you have missed a few assumptions. Assuming 100% heat transfer with the water, you may get the full 85 btu out of the cooler and into the tank, but you are going to have some losses for pulling the heat out of the water, depending on how you mounted it. If the heat sink in the water is aluminum, it would have a decent heat transfer coefficient, but coating it with epoxy is going to reduce that a little. Also, You may only have 2 gallons of water in the tank, but you also have other thins in there which have mass and also contain water. Water may have a higher heat capacity than the rocks and corals, but they still factor into the mass that you are cooling. It's possible, but I don't know that you will see the full 5 degree temp drop. Maybe half to 3/4 of it. I'm working on a simlar concept to cool a 10 gallon tank using a thermoelectric cooler. It's a 40mm ~90w and should be on its way. I'm going to attach it to a 6"x6"x1/8" aluminum plate, to spread out the footprint on the glass, and affix the plate directly to the glass tank. I don't know if it will crack the glass or not, but I suspect it won't. I'll test this on another tank first to see what the effects are. I'm going to try removing the heat a couple of ways. I've ordered a cheap 60mm heatsink and fan that I'm going to try forced convection with and see what the effect is. I'm also going to try an old Pentium II heatsink with no fan for natural convection. I'm wondering what effect the rate of heat removal will have on the differential temperature and overall cooling of the tank; I suspect forced convection would be more, but I'll see if I even need it. ---- I think for the capacity of Kev's cooler, tylernt is probably right about the heatsink. If you had a cooler with a larger capacity, a heatsink would be beneficial to increase the rate of heat transfer; you would need increased surface area for the increased capacity. With the capacity so low, I don't know that a heatsink will get it any cooler, but it could have a slight impact.
  3. Canopy and stand

    You can really use any type of drawing program, even a sheet of paper, to draw out your design. It's pretty simple; I've done it on numerous occassions, like power point or paint. They take longer than something like Visio, but will work. You just need to get your deminsions on paper so that you can follow it. You can make a frame and then add plywood or the like. A CAD program would probably be similar to Visio. You may even be able to find a free or trial version of something on the web. If you are looking for a structural analysis of the material and construction for the weight it can support, you can either do the calcs yourself with some statics equations or use a program like Solidworks. Like they said, very expensive, I think the liscense is well into the tens of thousands of dollars, but man the things you can do with it. A guy at work uses it to model our reactors and experiments and to develop drawings for all of our stuff. You can build things in 3D piece by piece and actually assemble them in the program. They can then cuse it to output our drawings. They even have a 3D plastic "printer". It actually makes the piece parts in miniature that you can assemble.
  4. Shao-lin's 24g nanocube

    Thanks MadTownMax. How did you raise your hood? Have any pictures? Let me know how your experiment turns out. I'm assuming this is a JBJ 24g nano? Is that the 70W? What are your thoughts on a 150W? I've been doing some browsing for a low profile reflector for the MH like what Shao-lin has, but I can't find it. Where can I get one, or did you make it, Shao-lin? If so, what from?
  5. Shao-lin's 24g nanocube

    Let me ammend my discussion. I just remembered the acrylic cover for the lights, and you say there is a vent above the lights. In that case, you want the light compartment (enclosed by the acrylic cover) to have a negative pressure with respect to the rest of the canopy (adjacent to the water). That will keep the heat in the light compartment from going into the canopy and put it straight outside through its vent in the top of the hood. In this case, it is best to blow into the canopy (outside the light compartment) with the fans. If there are fans in the light compartment, it is best to have them blowing out of the top of the canopy. If the rest of the canopy is negative with respect to the light compartment, the hot air will migrate into the main canopy, putting it closer to the water.
  6. 24g nano - day by day log

    Steelhealr: What kind of subnersible fuge light are you using and where did you get it? Is it effective?
  7. Shao-lin's 24g nanocube

    Shao-Lin: The fans are a lot like a centrifugal pump in their operation. They can pull a suction and exhaust pretty well. When you pull a suction on an enclosed compartment, it creates a pressure differential between the canopy and the outside air. Outside air comes in towards the negative pressure through whatever openings there are. If you turn the fan around and push the air into the canopy, the fan is working against a back pressure and can't push as much air. The air pressure inside the canopy increases and the air must leave before the fan can put more in. The back pressure at the impeller is the difference, and the fan does a little better job pulling it from a space rather than pushing it into the space. There isn't a huge difference between one orientation or the other, but there is a difference. The other thing to consider is where the fan is located. If it is in the top of the hood, you must consider what you want to do with the heat. You are going to create air flow patterns and turbulence inside the canopy with the fans. If they are blowing into it, you are going to push heat at the top down towards the water and it will do some funky current pattern until it finds its way out. Even though you may have a vent at the top, all of the hot air isn't going right out of it with the fan blowing in. The cooler air is entraining the hot air with it as it enters (through a couple of different mechanisms)and pulling it down with it, causing mixing of the air rather than replacing all hot with cool. During this period, it is exchanging its heat with the cooler water, heating up the tank. You may increase the tank evaporation rate this way, but I think the latent heat of vaporization removed through increased evaporation will be less than the heat you are putting into it by putting the hot air closer to the water. If I were going to do this method, I would consider a shroud on the outlet of the fan so that it exhausts the air just above the surface of the water. That would help keep the hot air at the top. If the fans are blowing out, they are blowing the hot air at the top of the canopy directly out of it keeping it further from the water. The cooler air can then enter at the openings that are lower in the hood. You will still get some turbulence in the hood and eddies mixing the hot and cool air and putting some hot air closer to the water, but I don't think as much as with air flow pointing down, into the canopy. The heat is removed from the lights by convective heat transfer with the air. The air can then go right out the top of the hood instead of to the water. You will still have heat transfer into the water by radiation from the lights, especially the MH, but there's not a lot you can do about that. Hopefully this is as clear as mud. I think it would be an interesting experiment to try the difference ventilation configurations and see what the results are with the canopy temps and water temp. The differences could be so small that they don't matter, or large enough to warrant consideration. Thanks for the tip about the curve to increase distance. I still haven't received my tank, so I don't know much about it yet, other than what I've been reading.
  8. Deep Sand Bed vs. Bare Bottom

    Great links that GreenUku posted. Those articles had some very good information about the experiments they ran comparing plenums and sandbeds, deep and shallow. From what I've been seeing, it seems to me that the type of tank you have should be based on what you want. If you want corals, it sounds BB is better. If you fish, more sand is better. Perhaps we have the right balnace for both with a shallow sand bed. Corals grow slow, and fish can adapt. I also enjoy the look of sand on the bottom. So for my reefs, I think I'll go with around an inch of sand, thick enough to keep it covered and give the critters something to play in, but thin enough to see if onthefly's claims work for a little sand. I'll keep a deeper course bed for my 125 fish only tank. GARF does have some great stuff.
  9. 24g nano - day by day log

    Bacter Vital is all natural. According to the comany, it contains beneficial symbiotic microbes in a catalytic nutrient stabilizing solution. I'm not familiar with TLC or what it does, just wondering if anyone else has any familiarity with the products. From their website, http://www.marcweissco.com/marinereefprodu...bacter%20vital: All natural biological catalysts with over 600 species of microorganisms. Makes water, filter media, and substrate receptive to colonization. Not exclusively Nitrobacter and Nitrosomonas dependent; also contains many other beneficial organisms missing from other products. Utilizes a multifaceted approach to nitrification/denitrification. Properly cycles aquariums by synchronizing the sulfur, phosphorous, and carbon cycles WITH the nitrogen cycle as per modern scientific findings.
  10. 2x36w PC or 70wMH for upgrade

    What about a 70 MH, (2) 70 MHs, or would it be better for one 150 MH with the 2 PCs.
  11. Shao-lin's 24g nanocube

    One note about fans: they are always more efficient at pulling air than pushing it. How did you finally set yours up? I'm getting a 24 nano soon, been on order for a few weeks now. I like your light upgrades. I just upgraded a couple of eclipse hoods and realize that it isn't that difficult. I was thinking that the lights on the deluxe hood would be plenty, but now I'm thinking about putting MH in there. Maybe two 70s inbetween the supplied PCs. I could use the PCs as the actinics. Would that be too much for the tank? (Is there such a thing?) Would the heat be too much for the fixture?
  12. 24g nano - day by day log

    Anyone ever use Bacter-Vital to cycle a tank? How does it compare to TLC?