RayWhisperer

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About RayWhisperer

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    High society hillbilly & Honorary SCNRS member
  • Birthday 07/31/1971

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  1. I'm not reading through 2 pages. Just read the initial post. I can save you a few dollars right there. Ditch the purigen and chemipure and replace with a quality activated carbon buy you filter floss as poly fil from a craft store build your own stand, or use some other furniture to put the tank on. dont buy the handled container. A 5 gallon bucket is way cheaper. if you can find it, buy dry sand. Live sand in a bag is not what it claims to be. you can use a credit card to clean the glass. It's not as convinent, but it'll save you a few extra bucks. dont buy the fancy test kit until you are going to start dosing. Stick with the basic tests, and focus on water changes. That's only putting off what will eventually need to be done. All that combined, just dropped about $200.
  2. It's a rhodactus mushroom. Low to moderate light, low to moderate flow. $15 is about average.
  3. Ok. I just assumed you were using rodi as your water source. That's without a doubt your issue.
  4. Good find. I still wouldn't trust a diving photography site. Then again, I could be way off, and the site correct. Regardless, good find.
  5. I don't often venture here. For whatever reason, I read this thread and came here to say this. Bros got sum serious issues if he got calcium anywhere near 1300. I don't even know if it's possible to saturate calcium to that point. I doubt it.
  6. I'm pretty sure they aren't clauvaria, though, I guess at this point, you can call them whatever you want to. When you say bigger. How much bigger are you talking? If it's in the 10-40% neighborhood, it's a pretty good bet it's some type of gorgonian. If you are in the doubled in size range, it may be some sort of anthelia, though it doesn't have the structure I'd call "antheliaish".
  7. Sorry. Never checked back. Its certainly an octocoral of some sort. I couldn't begin to fathom a guess as to exactly what, though. Perhaps a location might help narrow that search. Like, is this on Gulf live rock, or some other known location?
  8. That's ok. Your scape would have sucked anyway.
  9. As much as it takes to bring parameters back to NSW levels. With alkalinity that low, I wouldn't be worried about a change in salt, or a rapid change in levels. Stability is the goal, but when something is way out of whack, it's better to fix it fast.
  10. That'll work fine. Do a large water change to get parameters back close to NSW. Test, then test again the same time the next day. If there isn't much of a change, test every day until you get a drop. That'll give you a baseline of how much you'll need to dose, and how often.
  11. Ph will fluctuate all the time. Don't bother trying ti keep it up. Your alk is way low, 6 dkh is borderline deadly for many corals. My guess is you are dosing 2 part incorrectly. Best way to fix that is to do a large volume water change. This will bring the water back close to NSW. Then start testing first, then dose accordingly.
  12. It doesn't ever seem to take hold in any reef I've had. I don't know if that's because of the light spectrum, or the flow, or some other reason. Probably just better to get rid of it, just in case, though. Better safe than sorry.
  13. Looks like chaetomorpha to me. It's still very small, though. So, I guess it could turn out to be something else.
  14. Ok, so, in the event you have an old controller that doesn't seem to be operating.... Try a factory reset. Amazingly, I went from no backlight, to backlight, just by a factory reset. Not something I would have figured a reset could solve.
  15. How bout this??? Now hear me out. I know AI didn't want to jump in bed with bluefish. However, can I just cut some wires and hook up the bluefish controller I've had sitting here collecting dust? I doubt it, but that'd really make this cheap for me.