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About glazer

  • Rank
    Good with tools
  • Birthday 01/18/1959

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chicago/Northwest Side
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, guns and boxes of water with frilly, brightly colored things in them, go figure.<br />Semi-retired so I can spend more time in my mancave, what ya need built?
  1. Hey Felicia.... glad you like it and it's doing the job for you. Saw some pics in your tank thread, looks pretty spiffy!! Now, for those that have been trying to get in contact with me.. and I'm hoping most of you see this here, bear with me and hang in there. I got swamped on PMs and requests for custom work. Awesome!! Problem is that I lost internet here at home. Took them Xfinity boys over a week to get it all straightened out. No sooner do I get that issue taken care of and there is a big shake up at work and now I have been on the road for longer than I can keep track of. I am home just for today and then taking off again in the morning for another week long stint. All driving this time so I don't have to travel so light and will bring a "non-corporate" laptop along with me as well and try to catch up with some more of you while out and about. Okay... like I said, everyone hang in there and I'll be with you as soon as I can. Now... little matter I need to put out there in regards to Picotope lids. If you are wanting to order a lid for your tank I am going to need for you to take a measurement. I need you to measure from center of the back glass out to the furthest point forward on the front bow. You should see a measurement of somewhere between 9 1/2" and 9 3/4" max. Early on in this thread, first post I think actually, I mentioned that the picotopes all seem to have a bit of variance to them. Some a little narrower, a little wider, sides not exactly parallel and so on. Slight differences, typically no more than an 1/8" however it now seems there is some tanks out there floating around (very recent purchases) that are 5/8" to 3/4" shorter from front to back. Width does not seem to be affected and I have no idea if there is anything different in heights as that doesn't have anything to do with the lid... Steve
  2. Hey Adrian... right off the bat I can't think of anything that's going to do the trick with only that much above the water level. Unless you can somehow lower the water level in this compartment or mod your hood in some way....it's not looking too feasible. Let me think on it. Jesse, can you shoot me some pics of your light and if possible a little sketch of some kind of what you have in mind. Just something in paint is fine, not looking for any kind of DaVinci type renderings...lol Email me if you will... addy is down there in da sig. Steve
  3. I'll second the Ranco for a no-thrills, get the job done, piece of equipment. Have used them for years and have one currently in use now that is about 12 years old and never once have had a problem with it/them. Steve
  4. Well, I can do overflow boxes in pretty much any size or configuration you can think of. Mame style overflow, nope, not that. I can bend and shape solid acrylics but don't have the tools/equipment needed to pull off bends in tubing. Unless everything was just mitered corners but that would be a major pain plus look really, uh.. messed up, lol. Hmmm, yeah... could but I see you can just buy replacement cups at most of the online vendors for 30 bucks or less. Before I even looked for one on line I was thinking in my head.. hmm, 40, 45 bucks as a price on me building one. Man, I just can't compete with China!...lol I haven't... people ask me all the time but as I tell all of them, definitely willing to make a lid for one or any of them, just need a template. They all run away and hide... nobody wants to trace apparently. Whattya gonna do... Messaged you back Matt.... speaking of biocubes Mr. Red Sea, here is a man that is not running and hiding. Course we, if I recall we are talking about a 29 gallon cube. My first template provider though!!!! Oh wait, I think he is bringing me the original hood and I have to make the template... LOL Steve
  5. Alright, y'all can quit bugging rbaby.... Vortech shields... Purpose, so you can mount your MP10 just under the surface of the water without having it sucking in air on higher flow settings. How does it mount... slips on over the edge of the glass and has two small set screws to clamp it in place. Does it work.... everyone tells me yes, quite well. Will this fit on my tank with a plastic rim... No, don't have a system for that yet and probably won't? If your tank has a plastic rim then more than likely it's deep enough to slide the pump further down so you're not sucking air. That's what I did. How much... 30 bucks shipped Priority mail with tracking in the US. If you're somewhere else, let me know and we'll get it figured out. (Apparently it takes about a month for one to show up in Denmark. We're still waiting to see) (picture courtesy of rbaby) Steve
  6. Locally... no idea. If you're in the middle of Montana, probably not. Large urban area, probably so. Easy to cut.. hmmm, well I would want to dry and grind down a 1/2" thick piece of stuff to the size needed using a Dremel, but you could. You have any hobby shops or craft centers around you? You could always check them if you can't find an acrylic supplier. Go to a dollar store and find one of those solid plastic cutting boards and cut a piece out that? Coaster, some kind of piece of plastic? Just depends on how thick of something you need. Like I said... Steve
  7. How much space do you need to shim up? I shimmed up a Viper light by just using a 1/2" thick piece of black acrylic. Guess the Viper was supposed to come with a shim but I got shorted...lol If you can't find anything and you need a little square of acrylic let me know... Steve
  8. You could definitely use those jacks... just make sure you're using appropriate sized wiring for the distance you run from your remote drivers. Personally though I would consider something else. Some of those jack/plug fittings can have just enough slop in them that any wiggle to the cords, like say moving them or your light may break the connection. I wouldn't want a "hot" driver losing contact and then coming back on. Good way to toast a lovely string of emitters. I would look in to something with a little more of a positive lock to it... say D sub connectors, BNC connectors, something like that. Steve
  9. Merry Christmas Jon.. That lid looks great if I don't say so myself!...lol Hey, just so you know.. seeing that condensation like that. You peeled the protective paper off and just slapped it on the tank, right? Give the lid a wash with some mild dish soap. No scrubbing or anything like that needed. Just a little soap with your hand then rinse it off. That protective paper that's on there leaves, for lack of a better word, a slight film on the acrylic. If you wash it the condensation will be larger drops of water instead of that misty looking stuff. Helps with letting the light through ya know... Steve
  10. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=287649 Steve
  11. Depends on what works best in how you plan on setting it up.... There's the Coralife mini if you want to go the T5 route. Leds, you could go with a par30 or 38. More than enough light for anything you would want to put in there. Know though you're going to have to park it pretty high off the surface of the tank so there will be a lot of light "spill". Still going with LEDs you could DIY a fixture and get exactly what you need or want. Don't want to DIY why it then you have say, somebody like me build you one Steve
  12. Well it kind of depends on what type of resin you are talking about... when they're cured they're safe but some you wouldn't really want to use. There is laminating resins... these don't fully cure and stay somewhat tacky on the surface so additional layers will stick. Finishing resins have wax suspended in them. The wax will come to the surface and seal the resin so it will cure. After the resin has fully cured you'd want to use a chemical "degreaser" on it to remove said wax. I don't know what you're trying to do with it, make something watertight? You'd need to pick the right materials based on the job. Polyester and vinyl resins offer better water resistance... there is even a resin made specifically for surfboards. Steve
  13. Thanks guys! Much appreciated! Matt... messaged you back. Nip... the tube(s) on the skimmer have and outside diameter of one and three quarters of an inch. I do have some smaller stuff on hand if there is some space restrictions. Even came up with a way to stuff one in the back end of a Spec...lol Steve
  14. Plugs vary all over the world.. 220 is 220 though. So no, those will not work here. Amerkanski looking plug or not... Steve
  15. I would think this would be a perfect fit... http://www.marinedepot.com/Mr._Aqua_Rectan...-FIAQRA-vi.html edit: Sorry, the link just went to rectangular tanks... check out the 11.4 gallon tank If you've got eighteen and a quarter inches from the counter top to the bottom cabinet trim I seriously wouldn't think about putting a tank any taller than 12" there. Well, unless every time you do any maintenance, add a frag/fish and so on you plan on draining the tank and sliding it out. Anything less than 6" of clearance above the tank I would think would turn in to a nightmare down the road. Steve