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GUSGUS 16

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    89
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About GUSGUS 16

  • Rank
    Nano Reefer
  • Birthday 07/22/1942

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  • Website
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    uk south coast
  • Interests
    LOCKSPORT . MARINE AQURIA
  1. sump for a 2.5

    then you have a 3.5 gal keep it simple
  2. Protean Skimmer

    32Bit_Fish (Are you saying that a protein skimmer should never be used in this hobby? If so, why is everyone using it?) The Q was a 8 gal tank ? A was read and decide yourself.
  3. Protean Skimmer

    well it just for reading you decide, but the lfs will say something and we left to believe them . 8 gal omg lol xxx
  4. if you are so busy to feed them yourself , try stamp collecting lol xxx
  5. To cover my tank or not to cover my tank

    a picture paints 1000 words????????????
  6. PLEASE HELP ME GET RID OF MY HAIR ALGAE

    a man riding an ass looking for an ass , and refusing to dismount lul xxx
  7. Protean Skimmer

    Studies of skimmers have shown that they remove various trace elements, along with pods and plankton. When people run protein skimmers, they dose trace elements to replenish them after their corals and skimmers use them. Because the skimmer removes most of the elements, such as iodine, it is dosed back in causing almost an endless cycle. The main problem this holds in nano reefing is that many of the trace elements cannot be easily tested for, so no one ever knows where their level is. This can lead to overdosing which will crash a nano reef in a matter of hours. The skimmer also begins to starve your corals by removing their food source. It's simply too risky. Protein skimmers are beneficial however, because they remove excess nutrients from the water, but this advantage is out weighed by the disadvantages. To remove the excess nutrients from this system you do a partial water change. The water change also doubles to replenish your trace elements, which are in your synthetic sea salt. Nitrates are removed, dissolved organic compounds are removed, and your trace elements are replaced. Your nitrates will always be at or near zero, and the elements will stay at a consistant level."
  8. A Better Way to Kill Red Slime

    beware TEXT WALL Getting to Know Cyano Ah yes, the bane of every aquarist, from the humble goldfish tank to the advanced reef or freshwater Takashi Amano style planted aquarium. Even the most diligent hobbyist can suffer from an unsolicited outbreak. What is Cyanobacteria and how does it come to be? How can it be treated and prevented? Fortunately for you and I, Cyanobacteria can easily be avoided. With the proper care and discipline any aquarium can thrive without this nuisance. Most aquarists have encountered it at one point in their hobby if not multiple times. This can often be the final straw that drives a hobbyist to call in professional help. Cyanobacteria is often mistaken for common algae, although that statement would be untrue because Cyanobacteria is both older (some believe 3.5 billion years!) and more abundant. Cyano is often credited for the drastic atmospheric transformation during the Achaean and Proterozoic eras that made our planet habitable to higher life forms. Cyanobacteria has a beneficial side that is often overlooked in the aquarium. Now hear me out before you write off one of natures wonders entirely. Cyanobacteria (in aquariums) only occur in closed environments where there is an overabundance of nutrients i.e. over feeding, too much light, poor filtration, fish overpopulation etc. In the closed aquaria, Cyanobacteria will consume and break down raw detritus into easily removable forms such as ammonia and nitrite. Also Cyanobacteria resides inside plants and some corals. However you may not recognize them because they go by different names. Chloroplasts are what plants use to convert sunlight and other nutrients into food, which is none other than our humble, all too familiar, Cyanobacteria repackaged inside plant cells. Cyanobacteria is present in just about every aquarium system, but they are too small to observe. It is only when they form a colony that they become visible to the naked eye. Cyanobacteria can reproduce asexually, hence its apparent proliferation in the closed system. Cyano cares not where it lives. It has no worries (except us) and roams free to do as it pleases. It will occur in ANY aquarium fresh or saltwater. It will grow over gravel or sand. It will cover both natural rock or wood even your son’s plastic pirate ship will not be spared the wrath of Cyanobacteria. It can look anywhere from a deep blue/green (hence the name cyano is of the Greek root kyanos meaning blue) to a rich Pinot Noir wine, coming from central California somewhere between the Santa Lucia highlands, Monterey and Gonzales County. I digress. Cyano is easily identified by its velvety fickle behavior. It can be removed from the surface it clings to by waving your hands over it. It blankets the aquasquape like natures soft quilt. It quickly breaks apart in “sheets” and not a single algae eater will touch it! Now you may be asking “so what can I do to eliminate nature’s art work?” Ah yes, the sheer irony of keeping an aquarium as a hobby. We take a vessel and fill it with water and animals of our choosing so that we may enjoy nature at its finest in our homes and offices. Yet despite attention to even the most minute detail, nature has a way of letting us know that despite our efforts we are not God. And our little living pictures of life aquatica will do as they please in spite of our direction or approval. Hence the topic at hand: Cyanobacteria. Now, to eliminate this unsightly pest is quite easy and cheap. In fact you may even find yourself saving a few Georges by the time you are done treating. Like I mentioned earlier, without excess nutrients Cyanobacteria and other types of algae will find it very difficult to survive. The animals found in aquaria, even the photosynthetic ones probably do not need as much light, food or fertilizer as you are giving them. Six hours of light is plenty(in most cases). If you are away all day, then simply set a timer or manually turn on your lights at say five and turn them off at eleven pm. The amount of food your particular system requires is unique to you. However fine tuning feeding and supplement addition to just what is needed and no more is a skill that can only be acquired by careful observation of your system. If you are not sure about this stop by Aquatic Warehouse or any local fish store (LFS) and a technician will be happy to go over your individual needs. And of course water changes. As a service technician, I have encountered many aquariums with this problem. By following the aforementioned steps I have been able to rid these systems of their affliction within three to four weeks. However there is the occasional stubborn system that requires a little more effort. Usually this means that the source of excess nutrients has been overlooked. Now we need to put on our detective hats and think like Arthur Conan Doyle. Is there a dead snail somewhere? Perhaps an unaccounted for fish? How long has it been since you changed your phosphate remover? Your carbon? What does your water quality look like? Are you using tap water? All of these are possible contributors to incubating our persistent slimy foe. Be sure to siphon out as much of it as you can. Does your system have a NRS (nitrogen reduction system)? If so (very carefully) check for tears in the netting. This can cause an imbalance of aerobic to anaerobic bacteria that can obviously wreak havoc on any system. Do you have a wet /dry sump or built-in filter? When was the last time you added beneficial bacteria? Do you have an undergravel filter? That could be adding to the problem as well. If even all of these possibilities check out and you still have a problem then it is time to resort to… [drum roll]…the dreaded chemicals. Fortunately for you and I, they are quite effective. However as with all chemicals, follow the dosing directions exactly according to the packaging, this is very important. Since Cyanobacteria is a bacteria what better to treat it with than an antibacterial! Erythromycin is very effective. To date I have not encountered a strand of cyano that did not die off within six days of using this stuff. Now be sure to dose for the recommended seven to ten days before ending treatment even if your case of cyano is completely gone before then. Remember just like penicillin or any other antibiotic drug there is the potential for resistance to occur in your aquarium just like in your body. And who wants antibiotic resistant Cyanobacteria other than a terrorist? After you are done with treatment, be sure to perform a 25% to 40% water change and dose heavily with beneficial bacteria less we risk secondary problems like infections to the fish or a mass die off because of the lack of beneficial nitro - bacter. What about those hobbyist who happen to have those pesky invertebrates that constantly hinder our efforts to quickly and easily solve these problems with chemicals i.e., corals, shrimp and live plants? No worries, you are in luck! There are several brands of treatment available that are erythromycin free. Two brands come to mind: Boyd Enterprise’s Chemi Clean and Blue Life’s Red Slime Control. I have used the former and found it quite effective. Sometimes it may take several doses. But again I emphasize that these should be a method of last resort. Follow the directions and be sure to dose with beneficial bacteria when the treatment is finished. Also I have lost a few more sensitive species of shrimp after treatment. Weighing the pros and cons, the shrimp (sorry little guys) it was a fair trade I was willing to make. So every now and then we all get a little sloppy and lazy. The occasional Cyanobacteria outbreak will be no hindrance to the armed hobbyist. A few water changes, a little skimping on supplements and food and the cyano should be gone in no time. With the proper knowledge, we can be ready to face any challenge our aquatic worlds throw at us. Let cyano bother you no more. However the day that it crawls up your bathroom sink and eats your cat, you have much bigger problem. lolxxx
  9. new member

    hi, old bald ugly poor retired, slave . Marines since 1972 spent all my money . Have been running nano's for 14 yrs . present tanks 23ltr- 30ltr . system keep it simple 1 heater 100w 1x18 w marine light 1 powerhead 240 ltr on mim flow . softies 2 bluelined pipefish 3 bumbbee shrimps 3 sexy shrimps 2 rock hermits 2-3" coral sand . 15 ltr water change sundays. turkey baster sand storm am/pm . Food shelless brine shrimp / frozen brine shrimp/ frozen shrimp via nutmeg grater for the shrimp glass cleaning mornings . Have spare nano tanks/ heater /power heads my tank sits on my kitchen worktop ( always on my mind love it) . nice to be here . (to old soon to late smart)
  10. How to paint back of tank?

    ok take 2 mins (quote: NOT FAILURE,BUT LOW AIM , IS THE CRIME. IN GREAT ATTEMPTS IT IS GLORIOUS TO EVEN FAIL) GUS
  11. How to paint back of tank?

    ref painting the rear of a tank , go 2 art shop buy coloured plastic ( blue/ green/ etc)place it on the back with black electric tape . advantage is that u can turn the tank and observe what is happening on the other side of the aquascape ,as u cannot see through paint ,this takes all or 60 sec, also if u have a tank front that becomes scratched need I say more . QUOTE :get out of the box painter's
  12. 8/8/04 - Dosing Calcium

    for a nano 50% or less, weekly, how do you know how to balance the rest of the soup , and will you keep this up . Quote . 2old soon 2 late smart.
  13. 4ltr nano pr bluelined pipes

    hi , its on its way as soon as I learn to send photos, or send me a e-mail address that I could send it to, also what I dont do with nanos is making it look like I have tipped a tin of fruit salad in side , all the colours under the sun /seven oceans . quote. (if you dont want to slip-up tomorrow ,tell the truth today)
  14. have run 1gal with pr pipes for 2years and have had young swimming for a day, sold the set up, and now have a glass vase 4ltr with another pair. in the uk all the pipes are tank bred and eat frozen brine ,also I give them 4 drops per day shelless brine shrimp eggs, living on the coast they have water changes 50% from the newly toped up rockpools. the brineshrimp eggs also hatch out as there is only a powerhead and they passout ok without dammage , I was quite surprised when I found this out many yrs ago. anyone else interested in ( 1GAL or pipes ) (yes I have come down from 80,20, 5, gal tanks and as I sold them on always kept hold of some rock. have been keeping marines since 72 .
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