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About mickey85

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    Chuck says it all.

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  1. Need to clear this frag rack 10/11/09

    Got FT and K today - fantastic looking corals and great shipping! T is already opening, K is half-open, and F is kinda slow going....
  2. Rice paddy Biotope, anyone offer advice?

    Of my four planted tanks, only one of them had any movement at all. heat fluctuations (if you use a water heater), fish movement, etc. all contribute to water movement. Also, if you do water changes as you should, you'll be fine. It's a better method, IMO, as then you don't have any equipment mucking up the look of the tank.
  3. Starting up a 2.5g

    I'd toss in some LR now and let the tank cycle while you're gone...
  4. Rice paddy Biotope, anyone offer advice?

    Why does the water need to be aereated? For the air-breathing labyrinth fish?
  5. Need to clear this frag rack 10/11/09

    I'd be interested in F, G, T, and K
  6. breaking down my nano...

    I'd be interested in these: HOw much would shipping to 47441 be?
  7. Rice paddy Biotope, anyone offer advice?

    I wouldn't use any filtration or mechanical water movement at all, honestly. For some ideas on planted tanks and their specific requirements, I'd check out www.plantedtank.net. The people on there are very nice, and incredibly helpful. Otherwise, I like the idea. Remember, in a rice paddy, there is very little movement. If you are dead set on some sort of mechanical filtration or movement, remember that any filtration is going to strip the water of nutrients that the plants need, and that the plants will more than make up for the bioload of 6-12 female bettas, if you are planting a 3 foot tank. Change a couple gallons weekly, and call it good. That would keep it from stagnating, and the fish would provide their own water movement. I think what I would do with this setup is to use play sand (yep, the stuff you can buy at Lowes, etc), or, if you're really set on being authentic, good, old-fashioned dirt. Make sure that it's clean and free of fertilizers and pesticides. Plant the rice, then fill the tank and let it settle. It could take a while, but a good way to fill the tank is to use a plate and run the water VERRRRY slowly into the tank onto the plate. That will keep stirring to a minimum. It would also help to have moist soil before starting this to be as dust-free as possible. If you use sand, as it is almost 100% silica, you'll have to fertilize. With soil, you wouldn't have this problem as much. Once it settles and the rice starts growing, I'd toss in a bunch of females, so you can have more than one fish. I'd also suggest using some form of slow-water asian catfish or loach to help keep the tank clean. Keep one side of the tank kinda sparse for feeding, or stock it with live food occasionally. When I was breeding bettas splendens, I had three mated pairs of convict cichlids each in their own 10 gallon tank (loaded with rocks, and with plenty of gravel to dig in). once the babies were free swimming and slightly larger than pin heads, I'd suck them out with an air tube and stick them in with my girlies - they'd go NUTS. As far as lighting, a tank like this is super easy. I used to keep my planted tanks open topped, and with very little water movement (i.e. a powerhead putting out maybe 50 gph for a 10 gallon tank). I'd then hang fluorescent shop lights over the tanks with grow bulbs in them. The plants did swimmingly. Another thing to think about - do you really want to keep domestic betta splendens in a biotope? IMO, it'd look kinda weird. I'd say to either go with wild-caught splendens, or go with another breed, such as Pugnax or Imbellis. They're just as pretty (and IMO, prettier than the "show fish"), hardier, and would look a bit more at home. Something else to consider is to use another anabantoid, such as gouramis. In a setup this clean, you could probably even stock it with chocolate gouramis and have them make it. Good luck no matter which way to go, and if you need any help, feel free to PM me - I used to be into planted tanks quite a bit, and loved every minute of them. BTW, check this out - yeah, it's for a pond, but the basic structure (i.e. depth and substrate) would be similar: http://tilz.tearfund.org/Publications/Foot...+rice+paddy.htm
  8. Harlequin Shrimp

    apparently it's not the "end of story" if you want his tank specifics to see if he can get one. don't be a dick.
  9. Ok, how do you do this? I did this example, but can't remember how to do it...
  10. Plastic frag tank ok?

    Get a ratchet strap and stick it around the top...that'll help with swelling.
  11. Where to get syringe?

    I don't know how well that would work with injecting stuff...
  12. Do you have a pico-tank?

    Red sea also makes a square tank, as does some company that supplies petco. They come with everything for $30ish...
  13. Where to get syringe?

    weird...I have to get syringes for a medication I'm on, and I've never gotten a hassle...they just ask what size. For your application, go with a higher gauge (22-24 should do it). For really fricking big anemones, try 18 gauge.
  14. Cycle After Move?

    you'd probably be better off getting a couple pounds of pre-cured live rock. That catalina water stuff doesn't have half as much bacteria as live sand/rock, both of which you can probably get from an LFS - ask for their sand out of the system, and not out of a bag. I'm in college as well, and move the tank 3 times a year - in August, at Christmas, and then for summer break. during our week-long thanksgiving and spring breaks, I put the lights on a timer and call it good - there's enough in there to feed the animals for a week until I get back. I don't have cycles anymore with the moves, but then again, it's all moved, under water (in those 1G pretzel containers and in a cooler for the rock and coral), and put back within about 3 hours.
  15. What's the Best Pico Fish?

    Neon goby, clown goby or a striped goby (the green and white one with the red and white head...)