Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Lingwendil

  • Rank
    Raptus Regaliter- Royally Screwed
  • Birthday 10/14/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Oakley, California

Recent Profile Visitors

211 profile views
  1. Lingwendil's 20 long

    Some very purple looking teaser pics... And here's what the business end of the light fixture looks like now...
  2. Can't decide, Steve's led or Nanobox retro

    It's not very detailed (I'm always very busy lol) but I've got some more to add soon.
  3. Can't decide, Steve's led or Nanobox retro

    I love these arrays from blueAcro. $30~ each shipped is a steal for the 24w versions.
  4. Can't decide, Steve's led or Nanobox retro

    Unless you are a "power user" with very specific wants/needs, I would go for the nanobox or BlueAcro arrays. Both are very, very nice, and both use high quality emitters from good color and flux bins. I personally use a pair of custom blueacro 24w arrays over my 20 long, and I am very happy with them. He will customise the layout of LEDs used if you ask via email. Good choice for a budget too.
  5. New light for 20 long frag tank

    a simple 4 bulb T5HO from a hydroponics shop with a couple of the daylight bulbs swapped out for some nice blue/actinic bulbs from a reputable reef supply company would be economical and grow coral like mad, if not look a little warm for most tastes... If you want it more blue leave a single GE 6500K daylight in there, and swap all other three for a set of Reef blue types of your choosing... Myself, I would do a DIY LED rig on a RapidLED or Makers heatsink, with LED pucks and drivers from BlueAcro. Easy, affordable, simple, and great quality.
  6. Mars Aqua 165w

    Throw up some internal pics, as some of these are built differently than others, and may require special considerations for repair. You will also need a multimeter to test the voltage of the working channel to spec a suitable replacement.
  7. Mars Aqua 165w

    Yes. I don't like working on them. The drivers are very poor quality so I've replaced a bunch of them with meanwell drivers, and the LEDs themselves are cheap, but can be replaced with a heat gun but it's not very fun... What type of repair does it need?
  8. led help

    trouble acclimating how? dim it down and bring the intensity up slowly over the course of a week or so, see how everything responds
  9. anyone use Reef Radiance Starfire LED lamps?

    These terrible things? http://reefradiance.com/starfire.html Terrible color temp choices and too many on the whites, greens make no sense when cyan is available and more useful, yellow/orange is not useful for anything other than looks. Poor efficiency "bridgelux" emitters that will be much less efficient than lumileds or cree. It will have a very washed out white base color unless you dim them down a ton. It will grow coral, sure, so will most anything else... The ones I've seen in person look very bland. The spectrum is only useful if it's the right spectrum It's simply another "black box" fixture, there are better choices for the money. Only thing that stands out is the control app, but the rest of the fixture isn't anything special at all, same basic product as the MarsAqua types.
  10. Help with led retrofit.

    LED supply is pretty expensive for anything other than drivers... Why are you going equal parts white/blue? You will get terrible color rendition, and growth will not be very good compared to a full spectrum build... Personally, if you want two channels with good color and growth, and don't want to get into a huge mess of decisions... go with a 24w array from blueacro. They use Solderless connections, he also carries his own drivers that are adjustable, and they are compatible with any dimming controller that does 5 volt PWM. https://blueacro.com/acrostar/ He is a great guy to deal with, very affordable, cheap shipping, and he will even customise the board for you if you ask. I run two of his arrays on my 20 long, and think a single should work well for you. He also sells heatsinks that he will drill and tap for no additional charge, although I'm not sure how you would handle the fans. Hard to get accurate pics, but I love the color... RapidLED carries nicer heatsinks specifically for retrofit into these aquariums too, and they are cut for a slim fan. Something to consider. http://www.rapidled.com/nano-tank/
  11. Baby Starfish Hitchhikers?

    Asterina stars. Perfectly harmless 99.99999% of the time. Some complain that they eat corals, and I have never found a verified account of this, nor experienced it myself, home or at the LFS I used to run.
  12. LED Lights

    Standard ten? What are you intending to grow? What sort of look do you want, pendant or strip/box style? AI and Kessil come to mind, or a PAR38, or if you want to run a Cadillac-quality solution, a Nanobox two array strip. What's your budget?
  13. After buying my first AI prime a few years ago, and then building my own after, I couldn't bring myself to buy an off the shelf unit ever again. Being able to swap parts in and out as you please, and end up with a better light for the price if you know what you're doing. DIY all the way for me, even if it's simply buying a board its still cheaper. I'm still married to heatsinks rather than pendants though, as it's easy to throw more stars on as you go.
  14. The smaller ones aren't all that great for the price, in my experience with testing them, but it's been a year or two so I'm not familiar with current production. Similar output to a single 3-up star on the A80, for instance. You can get something much nicer together for 1/2- 2/3 the price with the bits from blueAcro
  15. Even a simple section of ABS or PVC pipe would probably work great, as long as you have it arranged right, and it would take paint well too. It would have to be a 5" or so section, like a DIY kessil with actual PAR.