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About sjpresley

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    Sir Slapnutz
  • Birthday 02/05/1969
  1. Genus = Uca Fiddlers have a problem with dying if they can't get out of the water from time to time.
  2. Usually takes a week to 10 days for it to shed the tunic.
  3. It isn't rotting, it is starving to death and resorted to re-absorbing it's own tissue as a last ditch survival effort. Linckia aren't really that sensitive to changes in pH and alkalinity, they ARE sensitive to changes in specific gravity because it affects their hydrostatic system; quick changes can cause tissues to rupture. Where this the case your star would have suffered problems fairly soon after you had acquired it.....as it has been 2 months the problem is most likely dietary.
  4. A taxonomic specialist describes new species, genera, and so forth. Depending on the "new" organisms affinity with other species it will be placed in a genus or a new one will be created. This was based on phenotypic characters historically, but more and more work is being done to confirm specific and generic status genetically. You CANNOT name a species after yourself. Species that have scientists names in them are usually done so to honor contributions of past scientists. Fortunately, this tradition is falling by the way side and more usefull descriptive names are being created.
  5. If you want to know about DSBs the best source is Ron Shimek. They were his idea and he has done more work with them than most (if not all). Read his posts on reef central and search the internet to find other articles he has written on them. In general, they are unstable in small tanks and populations of many animals that are beneficial in larger tanks eventually crash.
  6. Kramer is right, over time these toxins will usually kill (or at the very least affect the behavior or) many LPSs. Euphyllia are among the most sensitive. You commonly see posts about a Euphyllia that "was doing great, and suddenly stopped opening and died". When asked they usually have leathers in the tank which were the probable culprits.
  7. Did you watch the hermit pull the crown off? If so, the worm is dead, a hermit isn't going to pull the crown off a live worm. The worm may have shed it and left it hanging at the end of the tube, but usually they push it out. Worms will shed their crown, usually as a repsonse to stress and the hermit may have been messing with it after the shed event.
  8. Could you get a pic in focus? Until then, I'll go with boogers, too.
  9. They do indeed look like B. wellsi, the green things are dead Blastomussa skeleton.
  10. After transport they often exude a "slime tunic" as a defense mechanism. It will take a week or 2 for it to shed. When it starts to shed you'll want to direct a little extra water flow it's way to help it out.
  11. Can you get a picture in better focus? Or a good description of them (colors, texture, growthrate, hardness, etc). Looks like they might be foraminiferans.
  12. Goliath: The problem with most books is that much if not most of the information is based on other literature and not experience so you will find the same "phraseology" and information in many sources which is often outdated and inaccurate. The best solution is to have a varied library with books from both English speaking and non-english speaking sources. Besides the commonly recommended books by American authors the Baensch Marine atlases (German but the first 3 volumes have been translated) have a great deal of information and photos, so do the "Modern coral reef aquarium books" by Fossa and Nilson (great information from these European researchers and the English isn't too bad so they are readable, these are pretty expensive though). Opinions differ and the more perspectives you get the better you will be able to form a concept of what you can expect from an animal (or plant). For coral information, I suggest starting with Borneman's book. It has the best information on a host of genera. The Sprung book is a good supplement. Search around on ebay and search Amazon.com, click on the "used" books buttons and buy from their market place sellers; you should find some pretty good deals.
  13. I'd say "maroon rock anemone" is an appropriate description for this guy. I never pay attention to anemone prices so I don't know what kind of deal you got.
  14. Looks like a button polyp, probably Protopalythoa (I think, no references here at work). Should color up as it grows and would be helped (grow faster and reproduce) by feeding.
  15. I would put a piece of rubble next to the rock they are on, wait for them to grow across to the new rock and cut the mat between the rocks. That will just make them easier to place. They are tough though, so almost any method of fragging would work (i.e., they would probably survive the experience).
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