Newbie527 Posted January 27, 2006 on top of your display tank? never seen that done. Quote Link to comment
blooper74 Posted January 27, 2006 It's not sitting on top of the tank, it will be on a shelf about 10" above the display, sorry for the misunderstanding. Quote Link to comment
Kogut Posted January 27, 2006 Your syphon is an issue if your pump cuts out and you have it too deep in the sump. If you keep it at a level where it can lower the water enough to stop the syphon and not overflow the display, it could work. The issue then becomes if you let the water level get low on your sump from evap, your syphon will stop and probably overflow the sump. idk. I don't like syphon systems. Just my 2c. Quote Link to comment
blooper74 Posted January 27, 2006 So should I have a pump pushing water up to the sump and a pump pushing water back into the tank? Quote Link to comment
qualudethunder Posted January 27, 2006 Set up an overflow in the refugium to go back down to the main tank(do a search on overflow setups). You set it up the same way as everyone else, except the tank sizes and inhabitants are reversed. Do not use two pumps. Quote Link to comment
blooper74 Posted January 27, 2006 What do you mean check valve? How is that gonna help? Quote Link to comment
The nano Lance Posted January 27, 2006 A check valve will prevent the pump line from becoming a drain itself in case of a power outage. Drill the sump on the fuge side and use pve pipe to act as an overflow. Quote Link to comment
MadTownMax Posted January 27, 2006 wow - that's a lot of really bad advice in such a small number of posts. Take it from someone who's done this before, and has learned from their mistakes Drill the top tank near to the bottom corner(1.5" from bottom and side wall) w/ a 1" bulkhead (1.25" hole I believe - but check for yourself; yes, it is very large so it won't completely fill with water and sound like a toilet) then use a 90-degree elbow, and run a 1" pipe straight up to the level you would like water at - use a strainer at the top so that macro algae or critters don't block it. doing this will eliminate the need for the last baffle, and give you a lot more room in the final chamber for a refugium. you can also eliminate one of your first baffles as you don't need it to maintain a water level for your skimmer, the lowest tank in the system will have a variable water level, not the top. Check valves fail - just have your inlet above the water line or slightly submersed (as you show in the pic) Use a dremel with a diamond bit to drill - a cheap generic one is $20, and the bits come in a set from sears for $6. It is very easy, and as long as you're not really torquing on it, you won't break the glass - I mean you'd have to practically put all your weight on it to chip the glass using this method, and the bit will bend or dremel will probably stop spinning before this point. just to make sure - are you like at least 16 or so - otherwise I'd advise some parental supervision <img src="http://www.nano-reef.com/gallery/images/wink.gif" alt="Wink" /> PM me if you want more info and I can point you to some websites with pictures, as well as more threads with dozens of people who have done this. good design though - just a few additions from real-world experience Quote Link to comment
reffer9391 Posted February 13, 2006 Max knows his pluming i'd go with him but your baffles need to go all the way to the top and have some sort of mech. filter so chato doesnt clog pipe to diplay or get in you display Quote Link to comment
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