[Custom] seabass

[seabass]

Does anybody know what type of hitchhiker snails these are? I had been trying to get rid of them, but they keep reproducing. They don’t seem to be eating the seagrass or Blasto, so a few weeks ago, I decided to let them be.

 

The Taam Rio Nano Skimmer is producing skimmate now. I haven’t found a replacement floss/carbon cartridge yet, but I decided to put the original in anyway. I’ve been thinking about replacing it with some carbon in a media bag.

 

‘Chips’ will be going in my 40 gallon to meet his future mate ‘Fish’. She still misses her old mate and I don’t want him to get too big before I introduce him. He is far less shy and his appetite is awesome, so I think he’ll do fine with the big guys.

 

‘Butters’ is doing very well too. His appetite is also very good. He’s certainly ready for the big tank, but I don’t want my lagoon to be fishless, so he will stay put.

[seabass]

I’ve moved my clownfish to my 40 gallon tank

The two Ocellaris Clownfish get along very well. The male went right up to the female and wouldn’t leave her alone. She seemed put off by him at first, but within 5 minutes she was following him around the tank (she didn’t swim that much after her first mate jumped). All of the other fish were well established so there was a good chance that some territorial issues might arise. The Two Spot Blenny and Bartlett’s Anthias seem OK with him, but the Black Cap Basslet has charged him a few times (and the female doesn’t run interference for him yet). I’m not sure if it’s going to be a problem yet or not. I’ll get rid of the Black Cap if it cannot get along with everyone (if I could ever catch him); he is one of the most aggressive members, but the first one to hide in the rocks.

 

I’ve introduced two mature Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp into the lagoon

They came from my 40 gallon. One got it in his head to start picking at my Rock Flower Anemone, which completely closed up on itself for protection. I like the anemone better then the Cleaner Shrimp, so the banishment was an easy decision. I had originally planned on keeping shrimp in the lagoon anyway; plus it was looking pretty bare without the clownfish.

[travisurfer]

sounds like everything is doing well. would you recommend the rio skimmer to anyone?

[seabass]

would you recommend the rio skimmer to anyone?

I wish I could answer that simple straight forward question better. I’m used to my Aqua C Remora (on my 40 gallon), so maybe I’m just spoiled. I just wish that you could plug it in and everything ran perfect; however, you do have to fiddle with the venturi intake (not enough and it doesn’t want to skim, but too much and the siphon breaks causing the water flow to stop). Plus, I’m not sure were to buy replacement filter cartridges for it yet (the cartridge seems to help with the micro bubble issue); however, I’m thinking that a media bag full of carbon will prove just as effective.

 

It is the size of a smaller HOB filter (taking up almost no room in the tank, while still leaving enough room for an average HOB filter on the back of a 10 gallon tank). All in all, I think that it’s OK for a $30 skimmer. It is probably as efficient as an airstone skimmer; but even airstone skimmers can’t compete with the price, once you figure in the costs of airstones and an air pump that is powerful enough to produce skimmate.

 

Confused? I want to like it, and kind of do. I hope that helps.

[travisurfer]

Ok, I was just wondering as it seems to be an interesting product. I like the fact that it is small, cheap, and HOB. For some reason not too many people have been buying these; I have only seen one other person on RC who had one and he was happy with it. I may end up trying one eventually since it would probably be a nice addition to any lightly stocked nano. Light skimming would help keep the water clearer and what not. If I can find one locally I am going to give it a try on my 20H.

 

I still haven't really gotten any new macros in my 20H yet either. The sawtooth caulerpa is really taking off and is completely across the back side of the tank. When the water gets warmer again locally, I am going to go find some codium in the local water ways. The tank has a shallow sandbed so I don't think it would be too great for sea grasses.

[seabass]

I may end up trying one eventually since it would probably be a nice addition to any lightly stocked nano. Light skimming would help keep the water clearer and what not. If I can find one locally I am going to give it a try on my 20H.

If you don’t get your hopes up too high (realizing what it cost), you’ll probably be satisfied with this inexpensive, compact, HOB skimmer – if you buy it for: light skimming, more flow, another media chamber, additional oxygen, and better pH consistency. I believe that we will see more of this type of skimmer/filter in the future (with inevitable improvements). However, at this point in time, I am hesitant to either hype this skimmer up or trash it. I’d be interested in your opinion if you decide to purchase one of these.

 

Stupid shrimp:

My Cleaner shrimp is now feasting on my Stomatella Snails.

 

Anemone update:

My anemone has opened back up. I had fed him the day before the shrimp started picking on it. I think the shrimp was picking at the anemone’s mouth to get at the wastes.

 

Clownfish update:

‘Chips’ made it through the night. He doesn’t seem frightened and swims right by the Black Cap (which still occasionally charges him). I think that they will be OK, but if I ever move my tank (which I’m hoping to do this spring or summer), I might decide to sell the basslet to my LFS.

[seabass]

10 Gallon Star Grass Lagoon

December 31, 2006

 

I’m still getting some bubble algae once in awhile, but nuisance algae are pretty minimal. I was able to successfully quarantine my clownfish that has just transitioned into my 40 gallon tank. I’m very glad that I did this as he was shy and wouldn’t eat at first; now he is outgoing and has a healthy appetite.

 

While the fish and corals have been doing fine, unfortunately my seagrass has not fared as well. The grass is still alive, so I’m still very hopeful for a full recovery. I’m going to setup my CO2 system in the next two weeks (I hope it makes a difference). The skimmer is now skimming; now I’m thinking about replacing the Maxi-Jet with a Mini-Jet on my wave timer.

 

October 31st:

 

November 31st:

 

December 31st:

 

New Cleaner Shrimp:

[WarEagleNR88]

That star grass seems to just flat out refuse to grow, doesn't it? The CO2 should help out.

[seabass]

That star grass seems to just flat out refuse to grow, doesn't it? The CO2 should help out.

Thanks, I hope so. It’s disappointing looking at the decline over the last couple months. I imagine that more light would help too. It also seems like the higher flow areas are doing worst than the lower flow areas; so I’ll probably try reducing the flow as well. Plus, I have got to start testing the parameters and see what the levels really look like.

[tinyreef]

sea,

you're probably low on PO4 or it's processing it too efficiently. i'd feed more, especially since your shrimp is snacking on the stomas.

 

are you still running the skimmer? (btw how's it working?) if so, stop.

 

i forgot what lighting you're using (too lazy as i type to look back).

[DarkDevil]

use tap water perhaps?

I still remember my old 15G the algae in there grew like hell, I can't stop it at all no matter what I do. I use RODI, I use different salt, I don't feed the tank at all, I only turn on the MH light for 3 hours a day, but all the algae just grow like they are the display. I have at least 6-7 different kinds in there. watch out for pH when u dose CO2, I am sure you think of that already, but oh well, good luck anyways.

[seabass]

I appreciate the helpful suggestions, thanks!

 

 

sea, you're probably low on PO4 or it's processing it too efficiently. i'd feed more, especially since your shrimp is snacking on the stomas.

Thanks Tiny! I’ve been trying that for that last couple of days. I have my fingers crossed.

 

are you still running the skimmer? (btw how's it working?) if so, stop.

I’m still running the skimmer as I was hoping that it would be able to help balance the pH. But I’m just speculating because I don’t even know what the pH is (I’ve only tested it once since the tank has been setup).

 

The skimmer seems to work OK; for what I wanted it for, I’m not disappointed in the $30 investment. It seems to lightly skim the organics; but with almost no algae in the tank and the seagrass just holding on, maybe there isn’t much for it to skim. I think I will follow your advice here too, and see how things go without it for awhile.

 

i forgot what lighting you're using (too lazy as i type to look back).

I was originally planning a stock setup and have the 40W Current compact fluorescent fixture with a SunPaq Dual Daylight 6700°K/10000°K 40W bulb. While I feel that this is enough light to sustain this variety of seagrass, I’m almost sure that it would benefit from more light. I actually have two 32W CustomSeaLife Super Nova SmartLite Retrofits sitting idle; so I’m kind of tempted to mount those instead.

 

 

use tap water perhaps?

Thanks, I’ve been thinking about that too. I just need to start monitoring my levels before I make some of these changes. This is a pretty big change from how I’ve kept previous successful reefs, so I want to move a little cautiously as a venture to the ‘Dark Side’.

 

watch out for pH when u dose CO2, I am sure you think of that already, but oh well, good luck anyways.

With other livestock in the tank, I only plan on dosing CO2 during the day (when the plants can utilize it). In theory, this should actually help stabilize pH during the day. But I suppose that you are right; I really need to keep monitoring the levels.

 

I really need to spend some more time on this tank. I’m so use to the bulletproof reefs (which require almost no monitoring) that I’ve setup in the past. It’s quite interesting, as this lagoon (the seagrass specifically) seems to require more specific attention than any of my other tanks. It kind of reminds me of the old SimCity games that were kind of hard to get started, but then take off once you figure out what everything wants.

[seabass]

I’ve significantly increased the food supply of the tank. So far the only noticeable effects are a fat Clown Goby and the growth of a red Gracilaria macro that had become quite invasive in my 40 gallon tank (prior to the introduction of an Emerald crab). A trace of the macro must have been on one of the coral frags and started growing in one of the Blasto colonies. Knowing what it did to my 40 gallon tank, I decided to remove the colony to spare my 10 gallon of this potential nuisance.

 

Tonight I removed my skimmer from my lagoon. In addition, I exchanged the Maxi-Jet for a Micro-Jet. Unfortunately the suction cups let go, and it disrupted the sand bed. With the consistency of the sand bed it quickly became quite a mess. Luckily, I was there and the powerhead was aimed at the bed for less than a minute (I’m not sure what the tank would have looked like if it ran like that overnight). At least for the meantime, I have decided to remove it (significantly reducing the flow). We’ll what happens now.

[seabass]

Bad news, my Clown Goby jumped. I wouldn’t have thought it was possible, but it must have gotten spooked by one of the shrimp. I’m not sure if I will replace him yet.

 

However, I decided to dust off my two 32W CustomSeaLife Super Nova Retrofit kits. I made a crude hood for them and put in a 50/50 SmartLite and a 10K bulb. This should brighten the tank up a bit:

[seabass]

The seagrass is looking pretty sad, so I’m making a last ditch effort to save it. The new lights are on and I just setup the CO2 system. I should have done it a long time ago, but it was hard to find the time.

 

For a diffuser, I used an Aqua-Tech 10-20 (120gph) HOB filter from Wal-Mart. I drilled a hole towards the bottom of the intake tube for the airline tubing elbow:

 

I secured the CO2 resistant airline tubing with a couple of cable ties:

 

Finally I attached the Red Sea Turbo CO2 Bio-System (with check valve), T-connector, and CO2 Solenoid:

 

I will also install a bubble counter in the near future. The flow is actually pretty good with the two HOBs. Here it is, running:

[seabass]

In order to monitor the CO2 production I installed a bubble counter:

 

 

For comparison purposes, I thought it would be good to take a full tank shot to document any progress:

 

 

There are still some signs of life, and I’m still hopeful that the seagrass can recover:

 

 

[seabass]

CO2 Update:

I’ve plugged my CO2 solenoid into the same timer that my lights are on (power closes the solenoid forcing all of the gas through the HOB filter). Ideally, CO2 production should be cut prior to the lights going out (giving the tank a little time to reduce the CO2 level before the lights go out and photosynthesis stops). Another timer just for the solenoid would be good; however, a second timer (on a shorter cycle) for the 50/50 bulb and solenoid should solve two issues. Although for now, I’m leaving all three on one timer.

 

The Red Sea Turbo CO2 Bio-System is basically just a one liter bottle; and I feel that a homemade setup would be just as effective. Although the cap has an O-ring to help seal it, a clip to hang it, and an airline connector. I’m not sure if the bottle has a different pressure rating than a soda container (which is also engineered to handle pressure), but it looks like a pretty ordinary bottle to me. Even so, the cost for the unit is not that bad.

 

The CO2 (yeast fermentation) reactor mix for the system is composed two dry components that get mixed with one liter of warm tap water. It’s nice that everything is pre-measured; but at more than $5 for a month’s production of CO2, it might be worth mixing your own (1/3 teaspoon of yeast, 1 cup of sugar, a splash of apple juice, and 1 liter of warm de-chlorinated tap water).

 

Via the bubble counter, I can see the system is just starting to produce gas. I expect increased CO2 production as the yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) continues to ferment the sugar.

[seabass]

I saw this in the [stock] WarEagleNR88, Macro Algae Reef Tank thread:

seabass (for his seagrass tank) may be better off going with a biowheel than CO2 injections if your readings are balancing themselves out.

I actually had three Penguin BIO-Wheel 150 HOB filters go bad during this contest and gave up. I kind of wish I would have tried another model. Maybe I’ll replace one of my current HOBs with another Bio-Wheel.

 

Anyway, along the same lines, I added bio-media to one of my HOB filters:

 

 

 

Not much CO2 production yet, but I’m making carbonated water in the bubble counter:

 

 

I'm going to spend some time next week testing my parameters. I'm ashamed to admit that I haven't been testing anything but salinity.

[tinyreef]

how did the penguins go bad? the motor died?

 

maybe you could also try the magnum (wheel-only) setup, basically a powerhead and hang the wheels on back. i know this from my fw brother.

 

check the po4, bio-limiter. no/low po4, you'll have little to no macro/grass growth.

[seabass]

how did the penguins go bad? the motor died?

Yeah 3 bad motors.

 

check the po4, bio-limiter. no/low po4, you'll have little to no macro/grass growth.

I was hoping the increased amount of food would increase the PO4 level. But like I said, I really have to start testing my parameters. I’m even considering dosing NO3 if indicated.

[travisurfer]

hmmm, this sounds kind of odd but hopefully you will get it figured out. sorry i cant be of more help

[seabass]

hmmm, this sounds kind of odd but hopefully you will get it figured out. sorry i cant be of more help

Thanks travisurfer!

 

I ran my first nitrate test today. I’m sure that everyone can imagine how it came out. That’s right…nothing. So I searched the Web for sources of KNO3 (potassium nitrate). Then I drove around searching for saltpeter at the local pharmacies; however, no luck.

 

I heard that stump removers use potassium nitrate so I picked up some Spectracide Stump Remover from Lowe’s (100% potassium nitrate). I was a little freaked out about adding something called ‘Spectracide Stump Remover’ to my lagoon and I’m still not sure how much to dose, but I added a bit tonight anyway.

 

[tinyreef]

have you thought about fertilizers? miracle-gro has copper in it so that's no good but maybe a similar product. maybe a farm fertilizer like ammonium nitrate? or maybe peat moss?

 

altho peat might screw up the pH too much. maybe you can check some of the planted tank forums or fw natural softener/acidifiers (i thought that was the actual main purpose of peat).

[seabass]

have you thought about fertilizers?

Thanks tinyreef, I have thought about using fertilizers designed for other applications. While there are a few threads on the Web about suitable fertilizers for marine setups, there are very few prepared products specifically designed for the planted marine aquarium. As you indicated, while the freshwater world has a number of tried and true products, many of these are just not suitable for marine applications.

 

As for dosing potassium and nitrate (via KNO3), I’m reading that an eighth of a teaspoon (a bit more than 0.8 grams) should raise the nitrate level (of 10 gallons of water) about 10ppm. However, with feeding prepared foods, I’m not anticipating low phosphate readings (but that wouldn’t be the first time that this tank has surprised me). I will perform a phosphate test to see if I should possibly be adding KH2P04 as well.

[seabass]

The addition of nitrates seems to have triggered the growth of some red sheeting Gracilaria macro algae on another Blasto frag:

 

I fragged the piece, putting the one with the algae back in my 40 gallon tank (where my Emerald Crab keeps everything neat and clean):

 

The fan worms and corals are doing fine:

 

I found the healthiest colony of seagrass stuck to the filter intake this morning. However, it doesn’t seem to have been damaged. It’s still too early to tell if the lights, CO2, and/or KNO3 are doing any good: