seabass Posted October 19, 2006 Author Share Posted October 19, 2006 Hehe, see, I should've done some research first. I do appreciate the suggestion though; it’s really neat that everyone is helping out. Link to comment
Reggae Reefer Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 That’s cool Reggae Reefer; a solenoid sounds like the way to go. Does that setup completely stop CO2 when the solenoid is open, or just substantially lessen it? I was thinking that it would be set it up like this (which would be a little less efficient when open, but it would completely stop it when closed): I’d probably hook it up to the Venturi injector of the Maxi-Jet powerhead. It should completely stop it. It would be easy to test (you can see the bubbles). Either way, you would need a solenoid. I think with the pic you posted the bubbles wouldn't make it into the tank, unless I am missing something. I am a user of Flourish Excel, in addition to CO2, and it definitely harms lower plants/algae. I don't think it would work well in marine tanks. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 19, 2006 Author Share Posted October 19, 2006 It should completely stop it. It would be easy to test (you can see the bubbles). Either way, you would need a solenoid. I think with the pic you posted the bubbles wouldn't make it into the tank, unless I am missing something.Thanks, I’m going to get a solenoid and try it out the way that you posted (this would keep pressure in the CO2 bottle the lowest). However, if some CO2 is still released at night, I’ll try it the way that I posted (with the 2-way valve adjusted so that the path to open air would be fairly restricted). This would direct most of the flow to the tank when the solenoid is open, but would still allow the release of some gas (to lessen pressure) when the solenoid is closed. Link to comment
Reggae Reefer Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Thanks, I’m going to get a solenoid and try it out the way that you posted (this would keep pressure in the CO2 bottle the lowest). However, if some CO2 is still released at night, I’ll try it the way that I posted (with the 2-way valve adjusted so that the path to open air would be fairly restricted). This would direct most of the flow to the tank when the solenoid is open, but would still allow the release of some gas (to lessen pressure) when the solenoid is closed. The two way valve that you talk about, what kind of valve is that? If it's a T and doesn't restrict flow at all, then I think there won't be enough pressure in the line for the CO2 to go into the water. If it does restrict flow, you want to be very careful that you don't make the walls in that room sugar and yeast coated Putting a solenoid directly inline is risky with DIY CO2. One thing about the pic I posted, is that I would go with only 2 check valves rather than the 3 it shows. I don't think you need one right before the solenoid, and I think it would work a little better without it. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 19, 2006 Author Share Posted October 19, 2006 My little lagoon will probably look kind of crowded with 2 powerheads, so I’m thinking about using just one. Even on the wave timer, I feel that there should still be enough flow. And since the Maxi-Jets have a Venturi injector option, I wouldn’t need a separate powerhead for the CO2 (although I’m kind of fond of Reggae Reefer’s idea of attaching it to the intake of my HOB filter instead). Wow, I’m getting so close to the stock requirements. If I just changed the 50/50 daylight bulb back to the standard 50/50, I’d probably qualify. I’m not sure if a CO2 system would be allowed; but without an additional powerhead for it, it’s just a simple dosing system (so who knows). Anyway, I guess I’m not too scared of all the wicked cool tanks in the custom category, so I’m sticking with the daylight bulb. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 20, 2006 Author Share Posted October 20, 2006 The two way valve that you talk about, what kind of valve is that? Just a simple 2-way gang valve like this. Thanks for your help. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 20, 2006 Author Share Posted October 20, 2006 I just ordered the following. Indo-Pacific Sea Farms order: Live Sand Activator Plus with ReefWorms Diversity Package CO2 dosing: • CO2 Solenoid • Dennerle CO2 Check Valves • CO2 resistant tubing • Red Sea Turbo CO2 Bio-System Other additives: • ESV B-Ionic Calcium (and alkalinity) Buffer • ESV B-Ionic Magnesium • Kent Marine (Super Chelated) Iron and Manganese Link to comment
jeremai Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Awesome. Have you ordered from IPSF before? Their site seems like a lot of sales pitch, no real substance. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 20, 2006 Author Share Posted October 20, 2006 Awesome. Have you ordered from IPSF before? Their site seems like a lot of sales pitch, no real substance. Yeah, I’ve ordered from IPSF before (but not the Live Sand Activator). It’s kind of weird, I’d buy from them again; but at the same time, I don’t go out of my way to recommend them. It’s a decent place, but the costs seem a bit high and their web site is hard to order from (no shopping cart, and even determining the cost of specific items seems more difficult than it should be). Individual products seem more expensive than some of their combo deals. In addition, they ask you to send your credit card information via Internet email (clear text for all the bad guys to steal); however, they do have the option of leaving your credit card information on their voicemail (which is more secure). I just felt that jumpstarting my sand bed with some more biodiversity would be a good thing. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 21, 2006 Author Share Posted October 21, 2006 Substrate: I was at PetSmart the other day and noticed a couple of bags of Seachem Gray Coast Calcite. I didn’t know much about it so I went home and did a few searches. It looks promising as a planted marine substrate; and my substrate is still a little shallow, so this evening I bought a bag to mix into my existing substrate. It appears to have good buffering capabilities and is relatively high in iron. I feel that adding additives to the water column can be helpful, but it isn’t quite the same as having a rich sand bed. Hopefully this will be a good addition as I have another shipment of seagrass ordered. Link to comment
jeremai Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 Woop! Now your sand is EXACTLY like mine! I love the stuff, and my 'grass seems happy. Good purchase. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 21, 2006 Author Share Posted October 21, 2006 Woop! Now your sand is EXACTLY like mine! I love the stuff, and my 'grass seems happy. Good purchase. I didn’t know; that’s pretty cool. I’ll probably mix it in when I get my next seagrass shipment. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 21, 2006 Author Share Posted October 21, 2006 October 20th, 2006 Not much change for the seagrass: Time to clean: Link to comment
RayWhisperer Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 Too lazy to re-read all the thread. Anyhow, I found this site for macros. I don't know if it's been posted, or if everyone but me knew about it. Whatever, here it is... http://www.marineflora.com/ Link to comment
seabass Posted October 22, 2006 Author Share Posted October 22, 2006 Too lazy to re-read all the thread. I know what you mean. Anyhow, I found this site for macros. I don't know if it's been posted, or if everyone but me knew about it.Whatever, here it is... http://www.marineflora.com/ Nice site, thanks for the link RayWhisperer! Obviously, my setup should be macro algae friendly, and I’ve been slowly changing my mind about not keeping them. I’d still like my tank to focus on seagrass, and I want to see results without adding macros into the mix. However, as the cutoff for adding new corals/livestock approaches (and if the seagrass isn’t consuming all of the nutrients), I still might look at adding a macro or two. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share Posted October 23, 2006 It’s official; all of the seagrass leaves are now gone. However, I’m leaving the root structure in place, just in case (but I’m not very hopeful). I should get another shipment this week. I hope that I don’t disappoint. Link to comment
jeremai Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 All you had was the Halophila, right? Ask Sarah if she can ship overnight, that might lesen the shock to the plants... Otherwise, get some Halodule. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 All you had was the Halophila, right? Ask Sarah if she can ship overnight, that might lesen the shock to the plants...Otherwise, get some Halodule.Yes, she is going to ship them overnight; I’m hopeful that it will do the trick. I’d like to keep Star grass (Halophila engelmannii), but I will try Shoal grass (Halodule wrightii) if it doesn’t work out this time. I’m really looking forward to getting this started. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 I have livestock coming this Saturday! In addition to a couple of things for my 40-gallon tank, I ordered the following from LiveAquaria.com: • 4 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermit Crabs • 4 Caribbean Nassarius Vibex Snails • 2 Astraea Snails • 3 Caribbean Cerith Snails • 2 Pacific Nerite Snails • 1 Trochus Snail I also ordered a replacement Yellow Clown Goby for my 40-gallon, which I will quarantine in my 10-gallon during this contest. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 26, 2006 Author Share Posted October 26, 2006 My tank will be going through a number of changes in the next few days. I should get my shipment from IPSF on Thursday, my seagrass from Sarah on Friday, and my livestock from LiveAquaria on Saturday. This Wednesday night I added the Seachem Gray Coast Calcite to the substrate (be prepared to rinse and rinse if you use this product). My sand bed is now a little darker in color, and a bit over 3” deep. It’s all ready for the IPSF goodies that are coming in the morning. Oh yeah, more test kits are on the way (I know, shame on me; I have no idea when I saw them last). However, if you are just starting out, please use your test kits on a regular basis until well after everything has stabilized. For this project, test kits will be important for evaluating critical nutrient levels. It’s been awhile since I’ve dosed anything into any of my tanks. For this project, I’ll be monitoring pH, alkalinity, nitrate, and phosphate; however, I’m not planning on getting test kits for everything that I plan to dose. Again, this is not something that I would recommend for people just starting out. To get around possible problems due to overdosing, I plan on performing larger water changes to help stabilize the water chemistry that has been altered by dosing. In addition, I will be careful to dose a bit less than the recommended amounts; and I will be using products/elements that are relatively safe. Finally, I have a bucket of Tropic Marin Sea Salt that I’m thinking about using. I will probably use tap water as well. I believe that the seagrass will utilize the nutrients in the tap water. I know it sounds kind of weird using bio-media and tap water in a tank that will house corals, but we’ll see how it plays out down the road. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 27, 2006 Author Share Posted October 27, 2006 I got my shipment from IPSF today (Spaghetti and Bristle Worms, amphipods, N-reducer bacteria, live sand activator, WonderMud, crabs, and snails). There were lots of worms, probably more than should go into a 10-gallon tank. Luckily my 40-gallon tank is right above my nano lagoon. Live Sand Activator Plus with the ReefWorms Diversity Package: WonderMud: Link to comment
WarEagleNR88 Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Oooooo, nice Seabass. Now to the contest, eh? What exactly is the Miracle Mud? I wouldn't worry about the worms. Put them all in and feed the tank very well. Do large regular weekly water changes and try to get your substrate to growing and maturing. With the animals you put in the tank, be careful of ammonia spikes as that may fuel algae growth. One thing I ALWAYS found with FW plants--if you still want to try the seagrass--the substrate will need to mature a couple of months. It's hard to just start from scratch as a lot of the plants won't take hold and grow well--especially special care plants. It's almost as though the substrate needs to season and produce some of its own mulm. But once it matures a little, your plants will begin to take root and multiply. Keep giving them the nutrients and light they need and they'll take care of the rest. I bet that's the part Sarah has left out of the equation which is causing all the problems. She's working with a seasoned substrate while you're working with a new one. I know it sucks to be trying this the first time, but if you're patient and wait for it to mature, it will surprise you when it does. Especially if you add CO2 and N-P-K + Fe! Link to comment
seabass Posted October 27, 2006 Author Share Posted October 27, 2006 Thanks WarEagleNR88; I think that you are right about a mature sandbed. However, I don’t feel that even that could have saved the first batch of seagrass (it looked better in the pictures than in person). What exactly is the Miracle Mud?WonderMud is a small amount of mature mud that’s full of critters. Here is their description; I hope that it helps the sandbed. I still might try injecting one of the other mud products that are available. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 28, 2006 Author Share Posted October 28, 2006 I received my Star grass today. I have to say that it’s like night and day from the last shipment. I’m very happy that they look so healthy! Link to comment
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