ezramore

new 40 Breeder Tank Build

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[attachment=13903:attachment]I Recently bought a 40 Gal Breeder at the Petco Sale. Now its time to build it up. I have already built the basic box for my Sump 33 inches long 18 inches wide and 18 inches deep. Yes i know its going to be huge but I have future plans for it. anyways attached is a draft of the design for the sump. please feel free to take a look and see if i am doing anything totaly backwards. Opinions good or bad are welcome. Whis will be my second sump build and i learned a lot from the first one. the return pump will be a mag 750, and i havent chosen a skimmer. Does anyone have any good tested designs for a home built skimmer, i have lots of left over Plexi and Lexan.

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[quote name='ezramore' post='883189' date='Aug 29 2006, 02:34 PM']what is a g2[/quote]

Dank Skimmer.

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[attachment=13904:attachment]Nice Looking skimmer, Ill look into it. Says in my catalog 200G capacity. Looks like a G1 is rated at 100G and the G1X is rated at 150G. Is it better to go small or large when it comes to skimmers. Edited by ezramore

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I too purchased a 40g breeder during the Petco sale.

Do you plan on drilling your tank for the sump drain and the returns? If so what size bulkheads are you planning on using?

In addition to the sump I was tossing around the idea of also implementing a closed loop, but that would add to the number of holes drilling in the back of the tank. I'm not sure how many holes is too many.

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I built an overflow box for it already. and i am using a 1 inch bulkhead with a stand pipe and a valve so i can reduce the flow.

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Sorry am using a hang on the back type overflow box. Gravity feed. I have never drilled a tank before and my local store only had one so learning to drill was not worth the risk to me.

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no real need to have a bubble trap twice in the sump. only necessary before the return chamber b/c you dont want to be pumping bubbles back into the main display.

also, the float valve, i assume is for an auto top off unit. the switch you'll want in the return chamber b/c that is where the water level will fluctuate due to evaporation.

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yes, make sure your ATO float sensor is in the same chamber as your return pump. looks good =)

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[quote name='fifty50' post='883243' date='Aug 29 2006, 04:18 PM']no real need to have a bubble trap twice in the sump. only necessary before the return chamber b/c you dont want to be pumping bubbles back into the main display.

also, the float valve, i assume is for an auto top off unit. the switch you'll want in the return chamber b/c that is where the water level will fluctuate due to evaporation.[/quote]


[quote name='kinetic' post='883265' date='Aug 29 2006, 04:57 PM']yes, make sure your ATO float sensor is in the same chamber as your return pump. looks good =)[/quote]

Thank you for your Comments, now that i look at it the float valve in the return area makes total sence. I also will eliminate the first bubble trap leaving the one at the return pump. I got the Sump area sealed up last night and will leak check it today. Hoping to start adding the internal parts this evening. I am still researching skimmers. My LFS was supposed to be getting some in today so i will try to see what he has. Here is the update --->[attachment=13943:attachment]

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I got a 40 breeder also at the sale. Picked up a 20l too. Will either be using the 20l or the 29 I already have as a sump. I wont be doing mine until at least Christmas though, so go ahead and make some mistakes I can learn from! Looks pretty well thought out so far. I'm tagging along.

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I considered the 20l for use as a sump but had more ideas than could fit in a 20L.

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[attachment=13995:attachment]The sump passed its leak test here is the build up of the sump
[attachment=13986:attachment] Fresh Plexi yea
[attachment=13987:attachment] Cut to size

[attachment=13989:attachment] the store bought pieces
[attachment=13990:attachment] basic box leak test
[attachment=13991:attachment] Overflow build on by custome serficed table saw. Using a standard plywood blade for cutting and the vineer keeps the plexy from getting scratched.
[attachment=13992:attachment] Adding the supports
[attachment=14005:attachment]Flame Polishing
[attachment=13993:attachment] Test fit
[attachment=13994:attachment] mounted next to my new skimmer
[attachment=13995:attachment] Final assembly
[attachment=13996:attachment]Testing final assembly

everything was put together using weldon and all corners have been gone over with lexan brand silicone to make absolutley sure it would not leak. I check the ingredients and its the same as the speacial aquarium sealent and its only 5$ a tube rather than 15$ I only used about 3/4 of a tube to complete the whole thing

lessons learned during my initial test. Make the center of the bubble trap 1" lower than the inlet wall or your watter will not waterfall as nice. I had to pull mine out and trimm it off a little. it was a 5 minute fix that made a big difference. Also that skimmer is an odyssey ps-75 anyone had experience with these. I havent tried it with salt water yet and my lfs will take it back. I ran it for awile and wasnt that impressed. The Return pump is a gineric 900 GPH All the words are written in asian characters and it slightly overpowers the u-tube on the overflow. i had to turn down the inline flow control a little to make it function properly. I plan to use my Mag 7 for the return which should work much better. Coming sooon a new custome stand and canapy. Just got to pick up some wood. Anyone have some good MH lighting around the 150W area for sale. it took 33 galons to get it up to where the final water level will be. Edited by ezramore

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Looks great so far! Keep us posted.


Odyssey skimmer? Any pics?

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[attachment=13999:attachment] this is probably the best pic od the skimmer i have. I speeled it wrong as well its Odysea PS-75. I looked on line and cant even find it.

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Here might be some better info on the skimmer [attachment=14232:attachment]

Worked on the tank itself. I painted the back using the plasticote paint i got from home depot. Makes a nice smooth cover on the glass. [attachment=14233:attachment]

I also used a left over couple pieces of plex to make holders for my return. I used Weldon to attach it to the plastic frame around the tank and followed it up with a bead of sylicone to fill any gaps. [attachment=14234:attachment][attachment=14235:attachment]

all of this will be under the hood when I get the build started. Ran a little short of funds as I had some unexpected vehile problems on my jeep.

Here is the light i will be using for my sump/fuge [attachment=14236:attachment][attachment=14237:attachment]

lots of work left to do. Still have the stand, Auto top off, Lights, Hood, and plumbing to build. Lots of ideas but a budget to maintain. Excuse the plastic dust inside the tank. Table saw stirs it up a bit. thats all for tonight. Edited by ezramore

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Picked up a set of 150W dual 20000K MH lights, with dual blue Antics for 300$ from my LFS. They are used but it looks like they will work out great. They are in great shape. Ill try to get some pics later today. I also picked up a Tsunami Auto top off. Only thing left is the stand in which i picked up most of the materials for. Its turning winter here fast and my garage is not heated so the stand will most likeley be a slow process. I am hoping to get it at least framed out buy the weekend. I am headed out to DC for business in a couple weeks and i just got back from a business trip at Cali the other day so things have been pretty busy around here. Edited by ezramore

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I finaly got the wood picked up for my tank stand. [attachment=15714:attachment]

Basic Frame [attachment=15715:attachment]

reinforced and top covered in thin layer Roofing sealent to prevend water damage. Used 3/4 Particl board for the shelves and top.

[attachment=15716:attachment]

Wrapped all surfaces including particle board shelves and top in poplar and wraped in trim board.

[attachment=15717:attachment]

Look my new lights :)
[attachment=15718:attachment]

Lights on

[attachment=15719:attachment]

still have to build the doors, and Canopy. Just ran out of wood. Back to the Depot today for some more. Yea me! Edited by ezramore

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wow this thread is great. I've been looking for information with pictures on how to build a sump set up for my new 40B. this is exactly what i was looking for.

question for you, how do you determine what kind of flow you need out of your return pump? I'm planning to set up my sump/fuge exactly like yours but I intend to use a 20L with a Lifereef 700gph overflow box.

and i'm not too familiar with the auto top off thing but I'm interested in the float sensors. One of my concerns is having my overflow box get clogged and my tank flooding if I'm not around. Can these "float sensors" be used to shut down the return pump if the tank starts to overflow?

thanks and great thead! your tank is going to rock when its done :)

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[quote name='Rewd' post='925831' date='Oct 16 2006, 07:43 PM']wow this thread is great. I've been looking for information with pictures on how to build a sump set up for my new 40B. this is exactly what i was looking for.

question for you, how do you determine what kind of flow you need out of your return pump? I'm planning to set up my sump/fuge exactly like yours but I intend to use a 20L with a Lifereef 700gph overflow box.

and i'm not too familiar with the auto top off thing but I'm interested in the float sensors. One of my concerns is having my overflow box get clogged and my tank flooding if I'm not around. Can these "float sensors" be used to shut down the return pump if the tank starts to overflow?

thanks and great thead! your tank is going to rock when its done :)[/quote]


I am glad my little thread has helped to at least give you some ideas. I started this thread in hopes that it would answer some of the questions i had when i first started and could not get answers to. I am not an expert so i am always open to suggestions and others ideas. Now for your questions.

For flow calculations i could not get answers when i first started on that very question, so i experimented with a little trial and error. My 1.5 years of limited experience told me its easier to go whith what you think might be a little big and add a valve to divert the extra flow back into the sump into the sump/fuge if its needed (i put a hose on it for my 12 JBJ to make water changes easier). If your going to use something like an SCWD remember it will decrease the flow a good 20%. Look up flow calculator on this forum and it can be of help. I am using a mag 7 for my return and my initial tests determined its about right. I have a spare mag 9 if the SCWD reduces the flow to much. I am hoping to have everything ready for final test by the end of the coming weekend and i will let you know how it goes.

For auto top off there is a link on the search engine that sells switches the turn off the pumps when they reach a predetermined level. I have never had an over flow clog on me. I am using a 1" bulk head so and a prefilter in the overflow box and as long as you keep the frefilter clean clogging is not an issue. I have experience with 2 types of ATO's. The kent float valve "slow filling but very trust worthy", and my new tsunami which i have only had for a couple weeks. Havent had any issues with it, but its still new. (Keeping my fingures crossed). Look up stand pipe on here too. I made one for my 12 w/sump and it really helps to quiet down the noise of the overflow.

Good luck on yours. I hope mine comes out as well as it looks in my head. i am starting the canopy tomarow after work. Thank you for the kind words Edited by ezramore

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Here is what i had in mind for the plumbing.

[attachment=15784:attachment]

Is there anything that i should do differently.

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[quote name='ezramore' post='926609' date='Oct 17 2006, 05:21 PM']Here is what i had in mind for the plumbing.

[attachment=15784:attachment]

Is there anything that i should do differently.[/quote]


the scwd, needs to be cleaned roughly every 6 months.. so u will want to put some ballvalves in there so u can take it all apart without draining ur tank.

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