bluebastion's 20g SPS M-Tank (glass)

[RayWhisperer]

Blue, I'm not familiar with the plumbing on this tank, but I think your best bet would be...

1) Finnex

or

2) http://www.jehmco.com/

[bluebastion]

Blue, I'm not familiar with the plumbing on this tank, but I think your best bet would be...

1) Finnex

or

2) http://www.jehmco.com/

 

 

Thanks buddy, I'll check that site out. I think Finnex may only sell through their retailers from my experience. So if anything I'll have to ask Chris from Nanotuners, or Premium Aquatics.

[bluebastion]

New "mod": Framed Mesh Cover

 

The eminent fish stock I will be getting has really been weighing on my mind. Especially with the amount of money I am willing to spend on the fish (i.e. Blue Spotted Jawfish, Helfrichi). So, obviously, I need a tight fitting lid so that my few hundreds of dollars won't be lost to carpet surfing.

 

Originally I was toying around with the idea to have a glass cover custom cut and made for my tank, but I knew that the MH fixture I just added on would be a huge heat issue. As I was reading around on the forum, I came upon a link that lead me to this DIY project.

 

It's an idea that was cited from here:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...ht=plastic+mesh

 

I'll break it down even more for those who don't have much experience with DIY, just like I don't. I had to figure out what to buy as I was at the hardware store.... especially tool wise.

 

What to buy:

BIRD BLOCK (Mesh Netting) 5.44

BRN SCREEN (Dark Brown Aluminum Frame, also available in regular aluminum silver, and white) 1.98

BRN CORNERS (4 pack corner adapter fittings... brings frame pieces together) 0.96

SPLINE (rubber stuff that pressure holds the netting to frame) 3.49

SPLINE ROLLER (tool for rolling the rubber spline into the frame groove) 3.49

MEITER SAW WITH CUTTING BLOCK (nice because it clamps the frame down to be cut, made by Stanley) 15.49

 

 

I actually was able to buy all the materials and tools at my local Home Depot. The original link said that the mesh was bought at Lowes. No need for two different places.

 

If you have a saw that can cut through the frame already, then this project is only about $15 bucks.

 

First take measurement of the inner lip of your tank. Make sure you leave enough room for play... but also make sure you'll be on the actual support lip.

 

 

Also, when making a diagram of your proposed frame... take into consideration the width of the frame corner adapters.... the ones I bought were 3/4" added on each corner. So the measurements I made for both widths and lengths of the frame had to have a subtraction of 1 1/2" off to accomodate the corner fittings. Cut the frame to your measurements and fit the corners:

 

Next, take some of the netting and cut a generous piece that is actually bigger than your frame. This is to just make sure you're not undercutting the mesh.

 

 

Now, line up the mesh netting with the frame. I like to take care that the squares are evenly spaced down the frame where I spline the net. It will take longer to make sure the net is even all the way around, but in my opinion it looks a heck of alot better.

Spline down the rest of the frame, also making sure the tension is good. I keep the netting just a tad looser than a tennis raquet's node, or a finely tuned string on a guitar. The heat of the light, if anything, will make the netting more pliable and loose... so the tighter the better. Take the spline tool and roll the spline one last time to make sure the mesh is secure.

 

Take a razor and cut the OUTSIDE excess netting in between the groove and the spline. The easiest way is the hold the frame up by the excess netting you are working on cutting. Cutting it this way makes the netting easier to cut, and the razor won't have to touch the actual frame as hard.

 

 

Here are pictures of the lid/cover on my tank:

 

Before

 

After

 

[VDub90]

VDUB...good luck with the hydor flow...but let me recommend you to oversize your return pump. Espically if you not happy with hf.

You notice in Blues tank the waterline does not go to the top...hence the overflow is not at it max so it can be pushed by upgrading return pump.

0.02

Izzue

 

 

For me the stock pump is pushing enough flow. Flow is not the concern. The concern is the flow only goes in one direction, the addition of the Hydor Flo is to create abit of random flow throughout the tank, with out the addition of a powerhead, the reason I bought this tank was to have as little equipment as possible in the display.

 

The display water level is about the same in my tank as blues.

 

Question what's the return good for? 600GPH? For a tank this size I think the stock 311GPH is enough it just needs some multi directionism, lol.

[bluebastion]

I forgot to add pictures of my moon light installation on my AquaMedic Ocean Light. My moon light system is The Lunar Tracker from:

 

www.thelebos.com

 

 

It's basically a fancy moon light system that changes the amount of light output from the two LED's, so as to mimic the cycle of the moon. Will the tank actually benefit from it because of the moon cycle feature?... probably not... but supposedly having lunar lights in general help with the reproduction of some of the creatures in the tank. So here are the pics....

 

LED's are the black boxes installed on the MH pendant. Heat has not been a problem from the MH's during the day cycle. Also, the LEDs on this system are awesome because they have dispersal lenses... meaning no spot light effect.

 

 

 

FTS with moonlights on in pitch black. Look ma, no spot lights!

 

 

 

VDub90-

 

I may try a Hydor Flo, if it's going to make a difference with random flow. I just know that it reduces the flow rate at the same time. Let me know how that turns out for you.

 

EDIT: Also, forgot: Here are the stats on my tank... it's been around a year now since my first tank cycled... so just want to know if this is normal:

 

Day 5 with LR in tank...

pH 7.7 (working on raising it with buffer)

NO2 0.3

NO3 10.0

NH3 0.0

 

How can I have Nitrate at 10, and yet ammonia at 0? Please explain.

I see the green hair algae beginning to grow... this is gonna be fun...

[zachxlutz]

That is an awesome looking "lid" that you have added to your tank. When I get my better lighting I also want to do an open top on my tank, but don't want to risk having any jumpers. I have this bookmarked.

 

Great looking tank. Can't wait to see it come along!

[Cam barr]

sweet tank

[gotboostedvr6]

wheres the best place "price wise" to buy a tank like this?

[RayWhisperer]

Blue, Nice shoes buddy!( referring to the shot of your lid with the tips of your shoes in the pic)

How can I have Nitrate at 10, and yet ammonia at 0? Please explain.

I see the green hair algae beginning to grow... this is gonna be fun...

Sounds normal to me. Ammonia is the first to spike, followed by nitrites, then nitrates. As your system begins to harbor nitrifying bacteria, the ammonia levels will fall, followed almost simultaniosly by the nitrites. Nitrates will now begin to climb off the charts. This is the stage when fun things like hair algae begin to grow rapidly.(why I now cycle all my tanks without lighting) Nitrates will stay high until your anoxic bacteria becomes more abundant(this usually takes the longest). Though interestingly enough, you may read 0 nitrates with things like hair algae. This is because the HA is using it all up. Take it away, the nitrates magically return.

Have fun.

[bluebastion]

Blue, Nice shoes buddy!( referring to the shot of your lid with the tips of your shoes in the pic).....

 

This is the stage when fun things like hair algae begin to grow rapidly.(why I now cycle all my tanks without lighting) Nitrates will stay high until your anoxic bacteria becomes more abundant(this usually takes the longest).

 

 

Shoes are my military boots. (I'm in the Air National Guard )

 

On the cycling the tank w/o light.... don't you have a hard time keeping pH at norm?

[RayWhisperer]

I don't worry about params until the cycle is nearly complete. Most of my tanks now have dual refugiums on opposite photoperiods. Once I get those going, and start dosing, everything stablizes quick enough.

[bluebastion]

I don't worry about params until the cycle is nearly complete. Most of my tanks now have dual refugiums on opposite photoperiods. Once I get those going, and start dosing, everything stablizes quick enough.

 

 

Alrighty then... I have changed my timer to run only 2 hours of the day. Just so I can see into my tank. BTW, copepods are multiplying... yay. Isn't it funny how inverts are supposedly overtly sensitive to a tank's cycle, yet pods of all things can tough it out easily... even after 2 day shipping in 95 degree heat.

[RayWhisperer]

Isn't it funny how inverts are supposedly overtly sensitive to a tank's cycle, yet pods of all things can tough it out easily... even after 2 day shipping in 95 degree heat.

Those are the only GOOD invert hitch hikers that seem to thrive in a cycling tank. After that, it's just the unwanted ones that seem to do well(Thinking of the gorilla molt I just found today). Why can't I ever find a nice pistol shrimp HH????

[bluebastion]

Why can't I ever find a nice pistol shrimp HH????

 

Because it was eaten by the Mantis that is hiding in the LR.

[RayWhisperer]

Heck, I'd even take a mantis!!

[bluebastion]

Good news... Ken at Finnex emailed me back about the plumbing. He says that since they do not sell their pumps or plumbing through retailers, he can send them to me direct. Awesome. I plan on buying another pump and at least two sets of plumbing. Now to figure out if two 300+ pumps will be too much flow into the display.... and will the overflow/surface skimmer be able to catch up in filling the chambers back with water. I also need to figure out what drill bit to use for the acrylic feaux wall.... and what size.... details details... anyone got some opinions?

[Izzue]

For me the stock pump is pushing enough flow. Flow is not the concern. The concern is the flow only goes in one direction, the addition of the Hydor Flo is to create abit of random flow throughout the tank, with out the addition of a powerhead, the reason I bought this tank was to have as little equipment as possible in the display.

 

The display water level is about the same in my tank as blues.

 

Question what's the return good for? 600GPH? For a tank this size I think the stock 311GPH is enough it just needs some multi directionism, lol.

 

Ok this is the part that this is a forum for ideas and suggestions.

I disagree big time...no where near enough flow...when you see all the dead spots with crap piling up and the infamous cyano moving in...then we will discuss flow.

Yall are both on the right track about keeping equipment out of tank but you can add much more flow to these tanks with great results (can you say SCWD or other device)

0.02

Izzue

[bluebastion]

Ok this is the part that this is a forum for ideas and suggestions.

I disagree big time...no where near enough flow...when you see all the dead spots with crap piling up and the infamous cyano moving in...then we will discuss flow.

Yall are both on the right track about keeping equipment out of tank but you can add much more flow to these tanks with great results (can you say SCWD or other device)

0.02

Izzue

 

I appreciate your 2 cents... and actually I am currently working out a deal with Ken at Finnex so that I can obtain another 300+ pump AND some of their plumbing. I plan to drill a hole in the acrylic wall (the top part is outside of the water), and plumb another identical output that runs back into the second chamber to the new pump sitting on a second raintray. I'll have to draw a diagram to show you what I mean. I am just afraid that 600 will be way too much flow in a 20, display 15.

 

Anyone know where to get the best trouble free bit to make a hole in my acrylic wall? I'm looking for one that will cut it like butter and not prone to crack it.

[Izzue]

NP...just install a valve on that one...im not sure about the sump of your tank...but if you look in Members galary under Izzue...I had LFS drill the left side of tank close to overflow with flex tubing...remove the rain tray and fill that compartment with water

SCWD on 760 gph pump with valve to close down...you can achieve getting the water line at top of tank if you like...

Remeber this is on my tank... I need to see your sump to see if it would work.

Since you have the nicer glass model...CPR HOB refuge would be a nice option without the stress my acrylic tank has...scared one day it may explode..lol

Good excuse for an upgrade...

All tanks are different with certain characterics or not...Try stock...then see what you can mod if needed.

I just know what the SCWD or any motion direction can do...if Hydro is an option...its just an other means of spending money until you decide to max overflow or even drill overflow to get max. FLOW RULES...

You can surf the direction changes on the top output...the middle inner keeps the crap stirred.

Peace out

Izzue

[VDub90]

Ok this is the part that this is a forum for ideas and suggestions.

I disagree big time...no where near enough flow...when you see all the dead spots with crap piling up and the infamous cyano moving in...then we will discuss flow.

Yall are both on the right track about keeping equipment out of tank but you can add much more flow to these tanks with great results (can you say SCWD or other device)

0.02

Izzue

 

 

I agree with you that there are dead spots, and yes crap is piling up. I just think that 340 GPH is adequate for what I have in the tank at this time, what isn't adequate is where that 340GPH is going (currently around in a circle).

 

But we'll see, I have a Hydor Flo on order and I will try that out first, even if it proves that I need more flow, it will still be in the tank, just with more umph behind it.

[RayWhisperer]

Pansies!!!! I'm currently working on a NC 12 with more than 500GPH. The unveiling comes soon!

 

Blue, 600 GPH will be fine on a 20, no worries.

[bluebastion]

Pansies?!!! PANSIES!!!???

 

 

....

 

 

I hate to inform you, but a NC 12 full of pansies is not a good idea.

[RayWhisperer]

Pansies?!!! PANSIES!!!???

....

I hate to inform you, but a NC 12 full of pansies is not a good idea.

LMAO!

I thought it would be cute.... A new spin on reefing so to say.

[VDub90]

Pansies!!!! I'm currently working on a NC 12 with more than 500GPH. The unveiling comes soon!

 

Blue, 600 GPH will be fine on a 20, no worries.

 

Hardy Har Har!!! lol

[Sardaukar]

The only way you have too much flow is if your sloshing water out of the tank or blasting things off the rocks 600 GPH is definately not too much flow. That being said, if all 600 gph come from one pump directed at an SPS frag, then your gonna have trouble. The goal, IMO, is to get as much flow as you can as long as it stays fairly random and multi directional - dfiuse the streams via multiple powerheads and Y loc line spilters if need be.

 

Anyways, Im considering setting up a new tank when I transfer this fall and the 20 gal M-Tank is one Im really looking at. If what you say is true about a new 22g right angle corner class version coming out is true, I might wait for that (Im not a huge fan of rounded corners anyways).